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VS V6 scan done along with fault codes

Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by pete30nz, Aug 8, 2019.

  1. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Hi people,
    I finally got around to scanning the computer with a scan tool.
    I'll post photos and you can see what I found.
    There were faults with engine running, and some with engine not running. But I haven't kept all those photos. But I do have live data photos, as in with the car running and screen shots.
    Photos posted so far are just error codes logged.

    Now are any of these to be there at all normally?
    Or should there be none.

    Pete
     

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  2. _R_J_K_

    _R_J_K_ Well-Known Member

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    No, none of them should be there, seems like you have all of the problems. The only code that should appear by default is 12 (nothing wrong).

    Clear the codes by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and see if they reappear after you start it. Since there seem to be a lot of voltage and signal codes I'd start first by looking at the engine loom to see if it has freyed through somewhere, also check all your earths are attached properly.
     
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  3. BlackVXGTS

    BlackVXGTS Well-Known Member

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    Do you have any warning lights on the dash (other than the engine light)? You may have an alternator (or voltage regulator) problem.

    Also, code 12 doesn't mean that there isn't a problem. It means that the engine is not running.
     
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  4. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Lean under load is probably a fault with the 02 sensor. Pop in new ones that should correct it unless its the cable issue that a VS Dores seem to have.
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
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  5. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    TCC fault is probably an issue with the valve body. The TCC solenoid rarely plays up.
     
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  6. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    The crank sensor code could be an intermittent fault. Crank sensors can go for months and only play up from time to time.
     
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  7. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Hey,
    I've just disconnected the positive battery lead for a good few minutes, just connecting it now.
    Will go check to see codes again shortly if my friend is home.
    I've had a look at the Earth's bolt beside battery, all look good and it is tight.

    Haven't adjusted sensor(s) yet, or looked at them.

    Pete
     
  8. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Good evening, I change over to new oxygen sensors today, reset the ECU by disconnecting battery positive while I changed the oxy sensors.
    Had the scan tool connected after this, and still have error codes coming up..
    I'll have to put up photo shortly.

    Pete
     
  9. Lex

    Lex Well-Known Member

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    What are the error codes?
     
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  10. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    These are the flight record with car idling photos.
    Using the data on the screen, I tried to set the tps to different locations.
    When set to hard left it was at 0.4volts and about 800 to 900 rpms and 0 degrees angle. When set to hard right, it was at 0.6volts and about 1150 rpms, about 2.0 degrees angle.
    (If this means any thing at all)

    Cheers
    Pete
     

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    Last edited: Aug 16, 2019
  11. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    These are the error codes I was getting while car was idling. A few variations by the looks of it.
     

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  12. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Hi, no warning lights on the dash as far as I've noticed.
     
  13. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Well-Known Member

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    Does seem weird to have all those codes no engine light or limp mode.

    Make sure battery is charged up & alternator is healthy..disconnect battery,go for drive & check again.

    I just stick a pin in 5 & 6 above brake pedal to check codes.

    Sometimes if there is a stumble or a miss it's enough to set of other different codes...can be battery/alternator or something else but usually related to what comes up first.

    Could be wrong but thought these tps you just fit & ecu relearns the settings.
     
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  14. BlackVXGTS

    BlackVXGTS Well-Known Member

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    You are quite correct.

    THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR
    The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body unit. It is a potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other end to PCM earth. A third wire connects from a sliding contact in the TP sensor to the PCM allowing the PCM to measure the voltage from the TP sensor. As the throttle is moved (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is below 1.25V. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide-open throttle (WOT), the output voltage should be about 4 volts.

    By monitoring the output voltage from the TP sensor, the PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors, and an unstable idle, because the PCM interprets the throttle is moving.

    The TP sensor is not adjustable and there is not a set value for voltage at closed throttle because the actual voltage at closed throttle can vary from vehicle to vehicle due to tolerances. The PCM has a special program built into it that can adjust for the tolerances in the TP sensor voltage reading at idle. The PCM uses the reading at closed throttle idle for the zero reading (0% throttle) so no adjustment is necessary. Even if the TP sensor voltage reading was to be change by: tampering, throttle body coking, sticking cable or any other reason, the TP sensor will still be 0%. The PCM will learn what the closed throttle value is every time the throttle comes back to closed throttle. The new closed throttle value will be used by the PCM and no driveability complaint will be present because the PCM learned a new setting. A failure in the TP sensor circuit problem will set DTC 21 or DTC 22. If the internal spring in the TP sensor should fail, the TP sensor will be stuck high. A sticking TP sensor should set DTC 19.
     
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  15. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Evening,
    I normally do use the paper clip 5 and 6 terminal to read codes. And all it would normally turn up was 12 which is ok/pass and have had 42 and 23 as well in the past.

    I'll have to clean the regulator on the alternator, and use multimeter to check if alternator and battery is up to the right charging specs.

    Other than this, I'm unsure

    Pete
     
  16. immortality

    immortality Home of the smoky breakfast Bacon! Staff Member

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    Check your battery/alternator voltage but if that checks out ok you may have a PCM issue as it supplies a clean 5 volts to sensors that require it. The lack of engine check light is also strange, does it light up with the ignition on before cranking?
     
  17. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Hello,
    I just started my car, and yes the engine light lights up with the ignition as it should do.
    Will check the alternator and battery voltage, and get back to yous shortly.

    Pete
     
  18. greenacc

    greenacc Searching for the billion

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    I'd be taking a punt on a faulty TPS and fitting a new one.
     
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  19. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Hey,
    I've just checked battery voltage, and then alternator and battery charging voltage with car running.
    Battery was 12.5 volts.
    Alternator and battery at battery was 14.05 volts.
    I didn't do the 5&6 terminal error check tonight, bit will do in day light.

    Pete
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2019
  20. pete30nz

    pete30nz Member

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    Hi greenacc, I did replace the tps a few months ago with a genuine Delphi one from APPCO here in Christchurch. I do have a second hand one still, to check if that's the issue. Last night I did check that the adaptor was on behind the tps sensor, and yes it's there as well.

    Pete
     

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