VS V6 scan done along with fault codes

[pete30nz]

These are the error codes I was getting while car was idling. A few variations by the looks of it.

 

[pete30nz]

Do you have any warning lights on the dash (other than the engine light)? You may have an alternator (or voltage regulator) problem.

Also, code 12 doesn't mean that there isn't a problem. It means that the engine is not running.

Hi, no warning lights on the dash as far as I've noticed.

 

[gtrboyy]

Does seem weird to have all those codes no engine light or limp mode.

Make sure battery is charged up & alternator is healthy..disconnect battery,go for drive & check again.

I just stick a pin in 5 & 6 above brake pedal to check codes.

Sometimes if there is a stumble or a miss it's enough to set of other different codes...can be battery/alternator or something else but usually related to what comes up first.

Could be wrong but thought these tps you just fit & ecu relearns the settings.

 

[BlackVXGTS]

......Could be wrong but thought these tps you just fit & ecu relearns the settings.

You are quite correct.

THROTTLE POSITION (TP) SENSOR
The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body unit. It is a potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other end to PCM earth. A third wire connects from a sliding contact in the TP sensor to the PCM allowing the PCM to measure the voltage from the TP sensor. As the throttle is moved (accelerator pedal moved), the output of the TP sensor changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TP sensor is below 1.25V. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide-open throttle (WOT), the output voltage should be about 4 volts.

By monitoring the output voltage from the TP sensor, the PCM can determine fuel delivery based on throttle valve angle (driver demand). A broken or loose TP sensor can cause intermittent bursts of fuel from the injectors, and an unstable idle, because the PCM interprets the throttle is moving.

The TP sensor is not adjustable and there is not a set value for voltage at closed throttle because the actual voltage at closed throttle can vary from vehicle to vehicle due to tolerances. The PCM has a special program built into it that can adjust for the tolerances in the TP sensor voltage reading at idle. The PCM uses the reading at closed throttle idle for the zero reading (0% throttle) so no adjustment is necessary. Even if the TP sensor voltage reading was to be change by: tampering, throttle body coking, sticking cable or any other reason, the TP sensor will still be 0%. The PCM will learn what the closed throttle value is every time the throttle comes back to closed throttle. The new closed throttle value will be used by the PCM and no driveability complaint will be present because the PCM learned a new setting. A failure in the TP sensor circuit problem will set DTC 21 or DTC 22. If the internal spring in the TP sensor should fail, the TP sensor will be stuck high. A sticking TP sensor should set DTC 19.

 

[pete30nz]

Does seem weird to have all those codes no engine light or limp mode.

Make sure battery is charged up & alternator is healthy..disconnect battery,go for drive & check again.

I just stick a pin in 5 & 6 above brake pedal to check codes.

Sometimes if there is a stumble or a miss it's enough to set of other different codes...can be battery/alternator or something else but usually related to what comes up first.

Could be wrong but thought these tps you just fit & ecu relearns the settings.

Evening,
I normally do use the paper clip 5 and 6 terminal to read codes. And all it would normally turn up was 12 which is ok/pass and have had 42 and 23 as well in the past.

I'll have to clean the regulator on the alternator, and use multimeter to check if alternator and battery is up to the right charging specs.

Other than this, I'm unsure

Pete

 

[Immortality]

Check your battery/alternator voltage but if that checks out ok you may have a PCM issue as it supplies a clean 5 volts to sensors that require it. The lack of engine check light is also strange, does it light up with the ignition on before cranking?

 

[pete30nz]

Check your battery/alternator voltage but if that checks out ok you may have a PCM issue as it supplies a clean 5 volts to sensors that require it. The lack of engine check light is also strange, does it light up with the ignition on before cranking?

Hello,
I just started my car, and yes the engine light lights up with the ignition as it should do.
Will check the alternator and battery voltage, and get back to yous shortly.

Pete

 

[greenacc]

I'd be taking a punt on a faulty TPS and fitting a new one.

 

[pete30nz]

Hey,
I've just checked battery voltage, and then alternator and battery charging voltage with car running.
Battery was 12.5 volts.
Alternator and battery at battery was 14.05 volts.
I didn't do the 5&6 terminal error check tonight, bit will do in day light.

Pete

 

[pete30nz]

I'd be taking a punt on a faulty TPS and fitting a new one.

Hi greenacc, I did replace the tps a few months ago with a genuine Delphi one from APPCO here in Christchurch. I do have a second hand one still, to check if that's the issue. Last night I did check that the adaptor was on behind the tps sensor, and yes it's there as well.

Pete