Hey, got a small little problem with my VS when i go from reverse to drive it sometimes shutters or chugs as if its about to stall, revs drop real low then they pick up and goes no worries, occasionally get it when car is stopped at traffic lights and try to accelerate it chugs for a quick second and takes of no issues Also experience abit to much fuel usage not sure if it could be related, any ideas on why its using abit too much fuel (just over 300km per tank?) Cars a VS series 1 ecotec, 190,000kms auto Ive been told by a few ppl its O2 sensor.. then another person believes if it was it would run either lean or rich and not run fine.. also is air intake temp sensor a possible cause?
i had the same problem with the stalling except mine did stal only when it was hot i found the base idle was out a bit after time the screw wears out and need to be adjusted the fuel prob i got that 2 but dont know what it is either
Might be worth cleaning the Idle Control device with some carby or throttle body cleaner, as well as resetting the actual length of the plunger, from memory its meant to be 28mm.
Take the easy route first - add a tin of Nulon injector cleaner (or similar brand) next time you fill up. If you've never added an injector cleaner it may pay to do it twice. The other way to clean your injectors is to use the premium fuel for a couple of tankfulls. At your mileage your IAC should be OK. How old are your sparkplugs? - if they haven't been changed for 50,000km or so they may be playing up.
I Need Help Too! My s1 VR is doing that too. i was wondering if u have to earth out a terminal to adjust the base idle???? also i was wondering if anyone could help me on huge issue i just cant sort out! My VR is lucky to be getting max of 200km to a tank of fuel. now ive checked the plugs and leads and replaced them, also replaced fuel filter and ive flushed the injectors properly (not the petrol additive i ran it on two cans of pyroil injector flush) and i have ran the car on BP ultimate for a month but still every week costs me 110 bux to run it. the timing chain does rattle alot but doubt thats any reason for this can anyone help? is there a computer issue or software i can use to diagnose this? oh and also a couple of days ago i was cruising on 100 for about 45mins or so and the engine light did come on so i pulled over and checked over all the sensors i possibly could. i let the car cool down and wen i started it again it went out. if that helps Regards Mark
yeah running some injector cleaner in it now, do occasionally put premium in.. spark plugs and an oil change are on the cards.. ive only had the car 3 months so unsure of state of these things how do i go about resetting the plunger length, will have a look tomorrow is it pretty straight forward? will give it a clean Also base idle.. where is this located? on/near throttle body.. still learning where things are and what all the sensors do
it could be a number of things IAC valve,TPS it could even be that your power steering pump is on its way out
sgt santa cruz you thread stealer start your own check your fault codes it could possibly your o2 sensors.. but anyway onto my questions thread stealer
i had pretty much the same prob took the throttle body off gave it a clean and chucked in new sensors
the power steering pump wouldnt explain fuel usage i doubt it.. will give it a double check, might have to grab a gregorys book to learn abit about all these sensors.. they are bloody everywhere
The plunger length can be adjusted by simple pushing the spring in a bit, until you get to 28mm, from the end of the plunger to the base of the spring from memory. It's located on the throttle body, on the opposite side to the throttle position sensor. As far as I know, the base idle can't be adjusted via the ECU, but you can fiddle with the screw on the throttle body, I THINK. Maybe someone else can shed some light on this? What is the car actually idling at, in drive, and in neutral? It should be about 850rpm or so in neutral and about 750rpm in drive.
your probably right on that but as for the stalling between drive and reverse i know it can effect it even the rack itself it all puts strain on it
revs in neutral sit at about 900-1000rpm and in drive sits on 900rpm another thing ive noticed is its spitting a bit of black stuff out the exhaust.. could this be a sign of anything? only really noticed this since exhuast was put on
Also you'll note that the engine strains more when on full lock at idle when the pump pressures are highest and the most load is on the engine. Mine will drop to 400rpm if I'm on full lock and go from reverse to drive.
it also feels like its going to stall if im at traffic lights stopped and go to accelerate sometimes.. nothing to do with steering at full lock but i know what ya mean
