VS11 Berlina Wagon L67, Intercooler , Leather, Modified CAI.

I finished off my Home DIY porting of the SC housing outlet port yesterday while I had the SC off to fit the thermal plate, finally removed the bolt bosses which I didn't do first time around.
The housing is still in pretty good shape with only some minor scratches on both housing and rotor edges.
There is a little bit of delamination at the front section of the rotors but overall quite good.
Here is a couple of pics, hope to fit it back together today.



Makes it a whole lot easier not having those water passages at the backof the LIM, no having to bleed the cooling system.


Cheers SW

 

Thanks for the comments Pete.
I'm afraid up close the chrome on the original Berlina moulds is starting to degrade with age.
Some sections are faded other bits have the clear coat pealing, but overall for an every day driver it's not too bad.

Cheers SW

 

Fitted the Mace thermal insulator under my YT intermediate cooler and I think it does make a difference to SC housing heat although this could have also happened because I've opened up the SC outlet port a little more.
Anyway the 2 seem to work even after a couple of hours in city stop start traffic you could still put your hand on the SC housing.
Previously you could only just touch with your fingers for a split second.
After a bit of reading on the forum i deceide to just use copper spray gasket between the LIM, plate and bottom of IC and then use a gasket between the IC and SC housing.
All went together well, fire up the engine but couldn't get the air bubble out of my IC and she wouldn't start flowing.
While I was fiddling this high pitched noise started up (a bloody air leak).
I thought that maybe there wasn't enough sealent on the 2 lower bolts that connect the snout to the SC ,I redid them but no luck, so off the SC and IC again.
The copper spray had left a pattern on the Mace plate and it could be seen that there was little pressure contact on the lim between the last 2 bolts infront of the thermostat housing on the passenger side.
Cleaned off the copper spray and out came the trusty blue silicone and now all is good.



Also put a phenolic block between elbow and TB


SW

 

Don't worry it was put back in before the car came off the ramps, same for the ABS line as well.
I also had to change my front radius rod bush plate around as I had them in backwards.
The originals were both in differently, one facing out and one facing in and didn't take the car off the ramps until I had the corect answer and had corrected there direction.

 

Thanks mate, good coming from someone with a car like yours.

 

Thansk for the comment.
Mine was a complete L67 SC motor and auto from a VS2 Calais.
Change over cost me around $1200 after selling off my old engine and auto.
SC motors are on eBay all the time, range from $1500 up to $3000.
You can bolt them up to your existing auto.

SW

 

Just a little update.
As some of you may know I did my front and rear control arms a while back with whiteline urethane rebuilt arms.
Well after talking with a suspension expert (father of one of my daughters friends) I rebuilt my original front lower arm leaving the inner rubber bush and only using urethane for the Radius rod both ends and the ride is heaps softer than when using urethane on the inner bush.
It now thumps over concrete joins instead of that crashing/ banging feel.
This guy isn't anti urethane in fact he loves urethane but only when used for control purposes and prefers rubber for ride points.
Next, again from his advice, I am looking to use rubber front bushed rear lower control arm, currently urethane.
He is 50/50 whether you should use rubber or urethane for the rear upper arms but does acknowledge that the rubber ones do chew out pretty quick.
He also said that cars that leak lots of oil are better with urethane because it is oil resistent which is why a lot of taxis go urethane.
Will post results of going back to rubber on the rear lower when I get around to replacing the one thats is stuffed.

SW

 

The fronts seats from any VN-VS holden or HSV will fit.
For the rear of a wagon I think the 60/40 split seat might have started with the VR berlina.
Head rests and 60/40 VS Acclaim, Head rests 60/40 and arm rest VS Berlina.
Hope that answers your question.

 

If your current leads are working fine under all conditions then adding big leads won't do anything.
The advantage of thicker leads are that they will be less prone to earth leakage or breaking down under load as for adding hp don't believe everything you read..
If you need new leads then yes go for a good quality 8-10mm spiral core silicone lead set.

 

And on anther note the wagon has been sold.

 

Wagon written off R.I.P.

:rip: the wagon written off , new owner devastated.:cry: