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VT 2000 door lock issues

wheb

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Hi all. First of all thanks to everyone that makes this site such a great resource, using old threads I have the door trim off and am looking at the parts involved.

The issue: quite a while back every now and then my central locking wouldn't open/close the driver's door (all other work perfectly). I said "oh well screw it" and simply started using my key in those times. It didn't take long before the key was my only real option and the central actually working on the drivers door was quite a rare thing.

Yesterday the key began to not even work and I had to get in and out the passenger side. Anyway this morning I start barrelling in some wd40 and hey presto, the lock seems to be back to perfect, unlocking beautifully, even the central was locking/unlocking smoothly.

After some tests it stopped working again so after a lot of time messing around it finally unlocked again and I took this opportunity to get the door trim off. I hit the barrel with WD40 from the inside and when it is working it seems to roll and slide fine. However when it gets caught/stuck in lock position, it just won't do that final quarter turn. I get all the clicking from the fuses/dash (sorry not super literate with the terminology), it actually even feels as though the car itself is randomly disabling the lock, is this possible?

So would love to get people's thoughts.
1. Do I just need a new lock? Will this fix the key and central issues I'm having? Is this easy to do yourself (I have changed my ignition barrel before, is this similar)?

2. Is there a chance that the cars electronics are not allowing proper function of the lock?

I just find it very strange that central died for ages, then came back to life today for a little bit.
 

wheb

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Just an update in case anyone else ever finds this useful. Pulled the actual handle/locking mechanism out to see if I can work out what's going on or atleast work out how it works.

Playing around with the key in the barrel it appears the way it works is the key turns an outer shell. This then grabs and moves a silver ring underneath which attaches to the rod which locks and unlocks the door.

Now while going back and forth multiple times I have noticed that at times the outer shell and silver ring are moving together as one. This is not how it is supposed to move. The outer shell is supposed to move independently and only catch the silver ring at the end of turns to move it to lock and unlock position.

My theory is my central has failed to work as these two parts have started sticking, but my key movement was enough for the two parts to move independently. Over time it has deteriorated further to the point where the two parts are sticking more forcefully, resulting in the silver ring and therefore locking rod being stuck in positions that don't line up with the key.

So for now it looks like two options.
Option 1: Try and remove the gold ring clip on the back (hopefully without breaking it) of the shell to try and remove the shell and see if I can work out why it is catching.

Option 2: Concede defeat that the lock is old and has crapped itself and get a new one.

I'm going to start with option 2 and contact a couple of lock places. Pain in the ass with lockdown but am hoping the replacement is literally the whole piece, barrel and silver ring/shell unit which I think it will be...
 

wheb

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Second update, central has nothing to do with the door lock, separate issue I'm not bothered with atm.
 

BlackVXGTS

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Your problem with the driver's door not unlocking with the remote is that the actuator in the door has stopped working and needs to be replaced. You can muck around with it and get it to work intermittently (as you found) but eventually it fails completely. You only need the actuator itself, and not the whole door lock and actuator assembly to fix your central locking problem, but in your case, given your other problems, it may be better to get the whole assembly. Attachment below from the Holden VT/VX Service manual to help you.
 

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  • FRONT DOOR LOCK AND ACTUATOR ASSEMBLY.pdf
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wheb

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Hey thanks for the info
Your problem with the driver's door not unlocking with the remote is that the actuator in the door has stopped working and needs to be replaced. You can muck around with it and get it to work intermittently (as you found) but eventually it fails completely. You only need the actuator itself, and not the whole door lock and actuator assembly to fix your central locking problem, but in your case, given your other problems, it may be better to get the whole assembly. Attachment below from the Holden VT/VX Service manual to help you.

Hey thanks for the info. Looks like I have two problems, lock and actuator. Will buzz Holden for some prices today, unfortunately couldn't really find any aftermarket lock parts/assemblies online. If I can get a cheap actuator I might be better off just replacing that.

Thanks again.
 

BlackVXGTS

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wheb

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There is this one but it's quite expensive ($300). RHF door parts seem to be quite rare compared with the other three doors which are quite common.

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Hey thanks!
Yeah not wrong, replacing the actuator and handle bracket assembly is gunna cost more than the car is worth! I can still lock/ unlock with the key turning hard. Might have to think about whether it's time to move on, these sorts of issues popping up are becoming more frequent as it's getting on 20 years.
 

Fu Manchu

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Replace the solenoid as suggested.
Remove the whole assembly to do it. Give it a degrease and clean. Then relube with drylube or I use the thick sticky popup sprinkler lube from retic shops. That is the ducks nuts. ~$15

Just get one from a rear door at a wreckers. Use anything from VT-VZ. I fixed mine on the VZ with rear VX solenoid.

Ratted the rear door assembly for the solenoid.

If the solenoid tops are different, they can be swapped out easy enough.

The problems with the key in the door lock will be directly related to the disfunction of the solenoid.

All fixed for $30. Years of heart ache gone.
 

wheb

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Replace the solenoid as suggested.
Remove the whole assembly to do it. Give it a degrease and clean. Then relube with drylube or I use the thick sticky popup sprinkler lube from retic shops. That is the ducks nuts. ~$15

Just get one from a rear door at a wreckers. Use anything from VT-VZ. I fixed mine on the VZ with rear VX solenoid.

Ratted the rear door assembly for the solenoid.

If the solenoid tops are different, they can be swapped out easy enough.

The problems with the key in the door lock will be directly related to the disfunction of the solenoid.

All fixed for $30. Years of heart ache gone.
When you say solenoid do you just mean the actuator that attaches to the door latch assembly with the rods?

Also what did you mean about the solenoid tops being interchangeable? (Apologies, not super knowledgeable with these things, usually just follow YouTube videos etc).

I wasn't aware that you could use a rear one, may be worth a try when the wreckers open back up. The lock tab won't even move up and down anymore for me to remove the interior door panel, will have to snap that off to get to the screw.
 

Fu Manchu

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Step one. Don’t use wd40. Wouldn’t a locksmith in the world that would say that’s a good idea. It collects grot and is not good for locks long term. Always silicone based lubricants.

The solenoid is the thing attached to the actuator assembly. It is a basic electro magnet. More or less like those found on irrigation valves.

They unscrew from the actuator assembly with two screws. They can be hard to undo, so use plenty of downward pressure while undoing them.

The tops of the solenoid have a rubber boot on them. Under that is a white plastic bit with a hole in the top that hooks into the actuator mechanisms.

There are two types. A rectangle shaped top hole and a round one. By sliding them forward with some force, they can be swapped over to the type required from the old one. Then put the rubber boot back over.

While the actuator assembly is different on the rear and passenger side to the drivers side which attaches to the lock, the solenoid is the same common part across all from VT-VZ.

By using the rear door ones, they will have had far less use over their lives.

You can buy a new assembly from eBay, from one of the Holden dealerships for around $160-$200.
 
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