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VT Commodore - Brown Sludge, in overflow tank reservoir.

Bronson3

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i just undo the rail from base of plenum and lean it out of the way
pulling injectors out of lim
i can never find my line tool

I'm not looking at it right now because it's 1am but to save future encounters, how would I go about removing the injectors inthought they required a tool as well haha. Sorry for my ignorance, but merely researching this has already taught me so much, thanks to your help
 

BlackoutSteve

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Injectors themselves just unclip (by hand) from the fuel rail and pull out from both the rail and manifold. Disconnecting the fuel rail requires a special tool or can be done unconventionally with a screwdriver.
It can be left connected and simply tied out of the way. Be very f-ing careful not to touch any electrical source with it such as the alternator's positive lead or post.
Inspect the injector O-rings too. They can leak fuel and cause a vacuum leak if not in good condition. Requires x 12.
 

Immortality

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The injectors just pull out of the LIM when you lift off the plenum.

I know it's to late now but I always recommend cleaning the engine/intake manifold with degreaser before doing this job.

Make sure you lubricate the the injector O rings before re-fitting. A little bit of Petroleum jelly or Vaseline works wonders.

If you don't have the correct tool for removing the fuel lines (avail from supercheap for about $15) than you can use the top piece from a Pump water bottle. The white piece on the sipper top, Remove from the bottle, cut longways, slip over the steel fuel line and press it into the quick connect coupling and then you should be able to pull the quick connect coupling off. I always have a rag under the hoses to catch any fuel in the lines. You should always de-pressurise the fuel system before doing this.

MACE have the LIM gaskets you need. Tell em your from JC and he'l look after you.
 

Bronson3

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The injectors just pull out of the LIM when you lift off the plenum.

I know it's to late now but I always recommend cleaning the engine/intake manifold with degreaser before doing this job.

Make sure you lubricate the the injector O rings before re-fitting. A little bit of Petroleum jelly or Vaseline works wonders.

If you don't have the correct tool for removing the fuel lines (avail from supercheap for about $15) than you can use the top piece from a Pump water bottle. The white piece on the sipper top, Remove from the bottle, cut longways, slip over the steel fuel line and press it into the quick connect coupling and then you should be able to pull the quick connect coupling off. I always have a rag under the hoses to catch any fuel in the lines. You should always de-pressurise the fuel system before doing this.

MACE have the LIM gaskets you need. Tell em your from JC and he'l look after you.


I've finished everything and all nice and tight and closed up, but my god damn ignition barrel won't turn. At all!!! Please help me guys!!! I have no idea what's wrong...
 

billythakid

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I've finished everything and all nice and tight and closed up, but my god damn ignition barrel won't turn. At all!!! Please help me guys!!! I have no idea what's wrong...
Your steering isn't locked is it ?
 

Bronson3

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Your steering isn't locked is it ?

Nah boss, was tuggin and yankin haha, just dc'd the battery and rc'd then toggled the alarm a few times, then yanked and pulled while turning again and it worked for some reason :S

I reassembled everything exactly the way that it was and the car runs. But I have a leak in the cooling system :S

It's the bottom right corner of this image
132844d1327270912-vs-vy-series-2-inlet-manifold-gasket-replacement-6hr-includes-pics-14.jpg


(Mind you this is not my car, it's a photo on the guide posted as a response to my thread earlier.) /// (This is below the alternator, the alternator is not there in this pic)
 

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There are O rings on some of the pipes that you removed. By this age it was probably flat and would ideally need replacement. Failing that, just use a little sealant on the O ring and see what happens.
 

lout

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sorry i should have remembered the two o-rings on the heater coolant pipes
use genuine holden part number 24502846 and 24500321
 

Bronson3

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sorry i should have remembered the two o-rings on the heater coolant pipes
use genuine holden part number 24502846 and 24500321

Reckon I could just whip on some silicone on the outside temporarily, I have a job interview at 12 tomorrow and need to make it :S I just need a bodgy job until after that. It's about a 30 minute drive, there, then the same back. I just don't want to risk breaking down.
 
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