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vt cv drive shafts drive axles how to remove and install

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devilly

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okay it seems like a pretty easy job to do.it's my first time for doing it .it's all lies i tell you.

so i'm trying to replace the drive axles that attach to the diff.well a full days work i cant even get 1 side out.have 2 bolts left to undo.

does it matter if you drop one side and then rotate it to get to the other bolts ? or do you have to keep the alignment of the wheel to center diff ?

here's a link to the part i'm replacing http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2XCV-Dri...-Statesman-WH-Monaro-VX-VZ-B148-/201476693260

since i'm not putting the originals back in. do i have to put the replaces in any special way ?

dunno if i'm overthinking or just trying to understand so i can do a proper job.

well back to trying to removing the other bolts and anyone that's done this job at home well done as it's a killer hard job on the muscles.
 
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devilly

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arg this job is killing me.okay still have the 2 bolts stuck what i have done is allen key and jack pole.
hole punch and hammer to try loosing the inner thread thinking of a rattle gun.heck i even got the heat gun out and made the bolt red and then cooled down and still no crack.

you know expanded it and then when it cools it shrinks. nar at 500 degrees still nothing. chisel and hammer nope don't crack it.any-one know any tools e.t.c. to crack this. i'm at the point of 2 ideas get old socket bash it on or angle grind it off.

i have also used rust killer and all other sprays from wd40 e.t.c to try and get this bolt off.
 

accentstencil

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I can't help with the removal but it doesn't matter which way they go back on.
 

Tonner Matt

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If you have exhausted all other avenues.....I would cut the bolt heads off with the grinder & remove the driveshaft.
The grinder should heat the bolts up enough from cutting the heads off so they will break loose.
At least then you will have enough bolt shank sticking out to get hold of with a pair of vise grips.

# Be careful using the grinder that close to the fuel tank and be sure you have no fuel leaks.
# Also take note of the way the driveshafts come off the car as from memory the larger CV on the driveshaft attaches to the diff centre. Even if you just change one side at a time to be 100% sure.
Good Luck
 

Immortality

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Ouch. I generally use an allen key and pipe extension to get em out, spray some WD40 around the heads and put some muscle behind it (but then i'm about 6'6" and 118kg so have plenty to put into it :) )

Get someone in the car to put their foot on the brake whist removing each bolt. They will be hard to get moving initially as they were installed with a thread locking compound on em which your heating the bolts should have loosened.
 

ephect

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go get an Allen socket so u get that socket in a breaker bar. It will come off piece of piss

a set may cost you 30-50 but worth it.
 
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devilly

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yup hand brakes on as if i was trying to stop myself going backward on a steep hill.yeah with the grinder that's a last idea as i'm think fuel and a plastic tank.

i removed the rubber boot and i'll try with a smaller socket bash it on and see if i can remove it that way.also thinking easy out.

allen key socket and breaker bar was used with the jack handle pole to begin with.

thanks for the ideas i'll give it another go :)
 
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devilly

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thanks heaps for the input :) i put a piece of metal sheet in front of the tank and a mate welded on the allen key.both are cracked now and new one in so just got the other side to do. here's some pics let me know if you spot anything that need attention .other then the mess and my marking of the sum locations for oil change
Picture 005.jpg
Picture 008.jpg
 

ephect

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looks good, and you've got the retaining washes on.
 

Tonner Matt

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I'd be replacing the axle seals in the diff centre while the driveshafts are off. Just as a preventative maintenance measure.
Murphys law will dictate that those little bastards will start to leak after you've gone and replaced the driveshafts.
 
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