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[SOLVED] VT ecotec about to explosively-self-disassemble

losh1971

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United are shockers over here 2 or 3 servos have had multiple insurance claims against them for selling contaminated fuel, one was mid last year.
 

Sandst4rm

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Still can't find any ground wires near the A/C compressor, pretty sure i took one off but might be imagining things cause there is no evidence of it in that area.

Also I am currently missing a bolt from the driver side engine mount bracket because it wont bloody fit. Have tried multiple times (10+) to get it back in but no such luck.
Haven't found any ground wires around that area either and I don't think there were any on there when I removed it.

I chucked some lines on MS paint to kinda help if you can understand it.

Example.jpg


This bolt doesn't stress me much to be honest but I hope it didn't have a wire on it cause it's not there anymore.
 
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Sandst4rm

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Ok it just started doing it with the air con off as well so it can't be A/C that's ruled out.

I tried what boozer said by taking off 1 lead and checking how it ran, all of them made it worse so it could be something else.
Will give some MAF cleaner a go i reckon and keep trying to find a wire.

So far;
-- All leads removed individually, all were working as intended
-- Fault remains when serpentine belt on and off and A/C on and off
-- Yet to find any air leaks or wires i forgot to connect
 
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Sandst4rm

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So after I used the MAF cleaner it seems to have somewhat reduced the severity but I can tell it's still there.
Could be a coincidence and the MAF was clean anyway so I'll see how it goes with a bit of time and a new fill of petrol from BP instead.

EDIT: misfire returned to same severity :C
 
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greenacc

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Have you ever cleaned out the throttle body and the IAC port on the side? Just an idea as the IAC valve is the thing that's supposed to speed up the idle when AC is switched on. If you jacked up the engine to do the mounts then check all the attachments like brake booster hose, battery leads. All the vacuum hoses around the throttle body as well. But whenever my eco had a miss it was usually leads or coil.
Question is, why doesn't bolt hole line up??
 

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Have you ever cleaned out the throttle body and the IAC port on the side? Just an idea as the IAC valve is the thing that's supposed to speed up the idle when AC is switched on. If you jacked up the engine to do the mounts then check all the attachments like brake booster hose, battery leads. All the vacuum hoses around the throttle body as well. But whenever my eco had a miss it was usually leads or coil.
Question is, why doesn't bolt hole line up??
Somehow the engine shifted during the jacked up period or the heatshield shifted.
Not enough room to get anything in there to pull, push or pry the heatshield back up and its too hard to move by hand.
Not able to access the heatshield nut either with the headers in there.

My concern was the diagram R J K posted shows a bolt to engine ground wire in that kind of area but I can't find a wire free and I figure if the engine wasn't earthed I would be seeing much worse problems than an occasional miss.

The IAC is fine AFAIK the idle comes up without issue when i turn the A/C on
 
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Bay 13

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Was the noise there before you did your mounts?

What did you remove besides the A/C compressor and mounts?

As for your engine mounts all I remember when doing mine is that I removed the compressor and sat it on the sub-frame towards the radiator to get access, also I bolted the brackets to the motor before lowing the engine, I also used rope to pull it into position , I lowed the engine till the weight was just on the frame and using the rope pull it in the direction of the holes till it locates into the frame holes then let down the jack.
 

Bay 13

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My concern was the diagram R J K posted shows a bolt to engine ground wire in that kind of area but I can't find a wire free and I figure if the engine wasn't earthed I would be seeing much worse problems than an occasional miss.

I don't think there a wire there by looking at the diagram that earth wire is on the other side where the pipe goes to your heater tape, that wire in your photo not crushed between the engine block and compressor by any chance, also make sure your CAS is plugged in.

I go and have a look at mine.
 

Sandst4rm

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I don't think there a wire there by looking at the diagram that earth wire is on the other side where the pipe goes to your heater tape, that wire in your photo not crushed between the engine block and compressor by any chance, also make sure your CAS is plugged in.
That wire goes between the mount bracket and block not the compressor and yes I did make sure not to pinch it.
Pretty certain CAS is plugged in and I never unplugged it during mounts.

Have cleaned the DFI and all coils at their connections, found a crack in the plastic on the stalk (cyl 5) of the middle coil; so i covered it in electrical tape to see if it would stop it arcing out to something but nothing changed.

Thorough clean on MAF sensor and both sides of throttle butterfly - no change.
 

Sandst4rm

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Was the noise there before you did your mounts?

What did you remove besides the A/C compressor and mounts?

The noise and hesitation probably was there before i changed the mounts but they were both split clean in two basically so I most likely wouldn't have felt it jump. That or it wasn't as bad before.

I only removed the A/C compressor on the passenger side (sat it on the subframe as you said) then took the whole bracket and mount off as a whole.
On the driver side i unbolted the trans cooler line bracket to get access to the top bolt on the motor mount bracket and unplugged the oil pressure sensor (now reattached no issues).

Moved the main wires around the other side of the oil filter while getting the bolts in and out and moved them back afterwards.
 
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