VT not starting Grounding issue? BCM??

[Glaze]

Hey so I’ve been having problems starting the VT. Got a new remote attached to the original head from mr minit worked for a week flawlessly then buckled it.

Car cranks but it’s as if fuel isn’t sending but the pump primes and works well under load, also once the car decides to start there’s a screech noise (like you’re tearing apart cloth material) in sync with the drive belt as the pulleys spin (noise intensifies when I accelerate but slowly disappears) Starter, battery and alternator are ok.

I interchanged the spare and original key to start the car for that week and then use the new key when it buckled to figure out if the key was the problem. However the new key failed. Note: whenever the car starts normally the noise I described does not occur. Very confused... yet I’m suspected alternator is buckling it

aside from this, today started the car but it immediately cut out and then the thermo fans turned on?? First time ever occurred. Beginning to think there’s a grounding issue because my high beams changes revs slightly when idling. It’s also been dropping revs rapidly to about 200 back to 900 momentarily (usually when idling at lights after coming to a stop) then runs as if nothing happened.... all the standards been checked eg belt pulleys voltages even the grounds around the car..

Apologies for the life story but I’m sick of everyone looking after their pocket old mate just said he found few BCM codes and wiped it off claiming he forgot the codes etc etc and I can’t find any info for this issue that seems to be coming from multiple flaws might just wreck it any advice/help is well and truly appreciated!

 

[Fu Manchu]

Why not get a computer set with matching key head and swap it all over. Best case, it’s fixed. Worst case nothing changes and on sell the set on eBay.

Disconnect battery first before doing it.

The screeching noice would be coming from either a flogged our starter motor or the accessory drive belt slipping due to moisture or a buggered bearing on an accessory.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Car cranks but it’s as if fuel isn’t sending but the pump primes and works well under load, also once the car decides to start there’s a screech noise (like you’re tearing apart cloth material) in sync with the drive belt as the pulleys spin (noise intensifies when I accelerate but slowly disappears) Starter, battery and alternator are ok.

Belt or belt tensioner stuffed. Fuel filter blocked or pressure regulator.

I interchanged the spare and original key to start the car for that week and then use the new key when it buckled to figure out if the key was the problem. However the new key failed. Note: whenever the car starts normally the noise I described does not occur. Very confused... yet I’m suspected alternator is buckling it

Just swap the old key head over to the new fob.
Fuel pressure up so no rough idle start or the belt warm and no longer squishing when cold.

aside from this, today started the car but it immediately cut out and then the thermo fans turned on?? First time ever occurred. Beginning to think there’s a grounding issue because my high beams changes revs slightly when idling. It’s also been dropping revs rapidly to about 200 back to 900 momentarily (usually when idling at lights after coming to a stop) then runs as if nothing happened.... all the standards been checked eg belt pulleys voltages even the grounds around the car..

Key fob not touching the slipring thermos went open circuit also cutting earth to fuel relay / IAC valve not responding. Fuel pressure or blocked filter or pump on the way out, sounds like its been well neglected and in need of lots of love..

 

[_R_J_K_]

Got a new remote attached to the original head from mr minit worked for a week flawlessly then buckled it.

Buckled they key? As in bent the key? The little metal part to the left of the key blade on the remote needs to make good contact with the metal rings around the ignition barrel in the car. Bend the key back some more or carefully bend the slip rings to poke out a bit more and see if they're making good contact. If the BCM is getting an intermittent or crappy signal from the key head there's every chance it could be the cause of your RPM issues as it might try to cut the engine as it's supposed to, but then suddenly 'sees' the key and lets the ECU run, but all of this happens in the space of a second or two so the engine doesn't turn off completely (up until this point).

 

[lout]

i have said it before, if you want 16 year old homeboys to reply, type as you are, if you want 50 year old mechanics to reply talk english
what the h does buckled it mean
the screech noise after starting is most likely caused by a loose serpentine belt
the extended crank times are flattening the battery, check the tensioner and belt stretch
press unlock on the remote just before cranking to disable the antitheft
remote head losing contact after starting will not cause any issues, may log a code, but will keep running

 

[Fu Manchu]

* Speak English

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

what the h does buckled it mean

I think it means fail under pressure or put your seat belt on...

 

[Glaze]

Thanks, this was the exact issueThe belt only few months old but was very loose when engine bay was hot - maybe tensioner assembly failing? the starting issue was the immobiliser not disengaging so just used that unlock method thanks homeboy
Appreciate everyone’s straight input fyi fuel filter and pump replaced but did nothing

i have said it before, if you want 16 year old homeboys to reply, type as you are, if you want 50 year old mechanics to reply talk english
what the h does buckled it mean
the screech noise after starting is most likely caused by a loose serpentine belt
the extended crank times are flattening the battery, check the tensioner and belt stretch
press unlock on the remote just before cranking to disable the antitheft
remote head losing contact after starting will not cause any issues, may log a code, but will keep running

 

[lout]

be aware sometime around year 2000 the serpentine belt length changed
so use your vin number to ensure correct belt
okay for the immobilizer issue check the key reader (metal trim around ignition barrel)
you probably have the early style, which had two pieces of trim as opposed to the whole circumferance
if you remove the plastic lower steering column trim, there is a little wire that should be attached to the keyreader
do not try and ground this wire as someone recently tried, it outputs a low voltage signal which goes into the nib on your remote and reads the code from the chip

 

[Glaze]

It’s a 1999 I’ve changed the tensioner pulley multiple times maybe it’s stressed the belt also turns out it wasnt the immobiliser it was the starter even though it likes to work first hit I was stranded two hrs yesterday and then it fired. Just on this I’ve seen people using a strip of metal as a spacer on the starter where the bolts are because a metallic noise was occurring (think they used aftermarket) would supercheap or repco parts cause this? Many thanks

Key fob not touching the slipring thermos went open circuit also cutting earth to fuel relay / IAC valve not responding. Fuel pressure or blocked filter or pump on the way out, sounds like its been well neglected and in need of lots of love..

Car has been good to me past 3 years

be aware sometime around year 2000 the serpentine belt length changed
so use your vin number to ensure correct belt
okay for the immobilizer issue check the key reader (metal trim around ignition barrel)
you probably have the early style, which had two pieces of trim as opposed to the whole circumferance
if you remove the plastic lower steering column trim, there is a little wire that should be attached to the keyreader
do not try and ground this wire as someone recently tried, it outputs a low voltage signal which goes into the nib on your remote and reads the code from the chip