G'day all, Firstly, let me say thanks for all of the great info I've gotten from this forum over time. I have a bog standard '99 VT Commodore Exec which I'm trying to coax as much life out of as I can. Now that a few parts are starting to fail, I'm trying to learn how to do as much as I can without sending it off to the doctor's! So the other day, the car just wouldn't start. The symptoms I'd noticed seemed to match up with what I'd read about dodgy starter motors, so I just changed that over for one from a wrecker, but with no result. Assuming that the new motor is actually ok, I'd appreciate any suggestions for what else to try. Here are the possibly relevant symptoms: - For a while now, the car's been sluggish to turn over when the engine's already hot - A few days before the car broke down, I tried to start the car when cold, and it was really struggling, as though the battery was dying. But when I tried again a minute later, no problem. - Drove to the supermarket (2min away), then when I got back to the car, it didn't start. From that point on, all I get is a click when I turn the key. Thanks in advance for any help!
Sounds like a faulty starter motor or weak battery, since you have changed the starter motor the battery seems to be the likely suspect. You should also check that the battery terminals and clamps are clean and tight.
since you changed the starter motor, check the volts on the battery with a multimeter or using the cars trip computer (hold up+mode, turn key to ACC and then release after 3 seconds)
Sounds like battery. How old is it? Get hold of a charger and charge it up. If the battery is stuffed it may not hold charge very well, but it may start and confirm any suspicions.
When I check with the trip computer, I get 10.0V. Bad news? And would it definitely be battery rather than alternator?
10.0V definetly means a flat battery... but not necessarily dead. The trick I often use it to jumpstart the car. Although in your instance with the battery being that flat it's a little harder. Hook up another car to your battery and leave your key off, this way the other car will be charging your battery somewhat. Come back about 10 minutes laters and attempt to start it. Does it start without hesistation? If yes, battery. If it's still sluggish and doesn't want to start... starter motor or starter cable. If its the battery, you then need to eliminate the alternator. Check the battery voltage with the engine running and the other car disconnected. It should be at LEAST 13.5 and a MAXIMUM of 14.8Volts.... 14.4V being ideal.
10v to start a car is low. i THINK you can check if your alternator is charging properly by using the computer with the engine running. hold up+mode and turn the engine on but keep holding the buttons for 3 seconds after the engine has started then release the buttons and if the computer says "14v" and it flickers between 14 to 14.4 that is good anything below i would assume is bad. If it reads 14v - 14.4v on the computer when engine is on then it must be the battery itself
Yeah once the car is running and reading 14v out a load on. Radio, A/C, wipers, lights and then see what it's reading it should stay around 14v will drop a little but not much, if drops a lot then will be the alternator. Good luck
Battery, connections to the battery....first clean connections and try the if no luck try a new battery.
Cheers guys, I'll try cleaning the connections, and next step either find someone to give me a jump or just bite the bullet and buy a battery. I appreciate all the replies!
As said above, check battery, check alternator output, check all connections on alt/starter/battery. and lastly, if the alternator output is looking dodgy: remove the volt reg/brush assembly and check length, as they wear out after time.
So in the end I bought a multimeter and jumper leads, charged it up a bit, jumped it, tested it following some of your suggestions, and it was the battery. I've whacked a new battery in, and she's good as new (for now). Thanks again for the tips!
I got a reading from the computer, but that doesn't tell you whether the battery or alternator is the problem, right? Anyway, if I didn't use the excuse to buy a multimeter, what sort of bloke would I be?!
The reading you get from the car will only tell you the voltage the alternator is putting out to the battery. Not the condition of the battery it's self. If the regulator is doing it's job properly, the voltage to the battery should drop a little as the battery charges. It shouldn't drop below 13.8 volts though.
