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VT V6 Failed to Re-Start After Stalling

grey_hawk

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In regard to the "key or chilled water", I parked at Bunnings on Wednesday came out and the car would not start on petrol or gas.
Spent 45 minutes swapping relays,plugging/unplugging, nothing.
I joined up with the RAA on the spot when he finally arrived he asked me what happened,reached in turned the key and away it went...so chances are it would have started anyway without the key or ice water.
To end my story before Lout goes to sleep, 'Thanks,bye!' drove 2 meters and it shat itself again...flatbed home.
Have now changed CAS as RAA said it was that,no 18x signal and put another DFI module in.
 

Immortality

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I actually really dislike the DFI location, bolted to the head on a alloy bracket that will help dissipate from the head into the base of the DFI module. Clever.
 

grey_hawk

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Somebody on here has tried isolating the module using fibre washers, I'm wondering how effective that would be and whether to try it.
 

boombaby

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Hello, lout, et al

I tried your super technique to test the CAS sensor. I say "super" because
after tonnes of reading on this and other problems, over many, many months
yours is the first time that I have read about such a method. I think it's
smart, but I'll talk more about that later.

Now...

Firstly, on my VT I can easily see the CAS sensor from the open bonnet, so
I did not put it up on jack stands. I went straight for the sensor connector,
same as when you might poor cold water onto it.


SATURDAY:
My car had been stationary for quite a few days without being started up.
Air temp was approximately 25oC. I used a 1600W hair dryer for about 7 or 8
mins, maybe 10 if lucky. (I was so bored standing there holding the dryer
that I lost track of time.)

When I started the car it fired up immediately, BUT, it felt as if it was
running on 5 cylinders. (I'm not saying it WAS only 5; just that it was not
happy running - but, remember, the car had been sitting a while.) I revved
the engine a couple of times before it settled to an "only just fair" idle.
I switched it off. (So the engine was still cool to touch.)

lout!!!


More heating. Again about 7 or 8 mins, but perhaps a bit more concentrated
directly on the CAS. Then I started the car. It started to a poor idle. It
was not smooth. (Let's say it felt as if running on a good gravel road - ie
good but not smooth like on bitumen.) I switched off.

Engine still cool. Air temp, same. More heat. This time it was closer to
10 mins. Start engine. Perhaps a slight improvement. Would be hard to pick.

lout!!!


SUNDAY:
I had to drive the car to pick someone up. Air temp, 22oC. Start engine (ie
cold, but NO applied heat). It fired up immediately, and the idle was good.
It was better than yesterday.



DISCUSSION:
Now; that's pretty unscientific, but it SEEMED to be a result. I can't say 100%
because it had been sitting a few days. As it stands, it would not be reliable.

lout!!!

lout, I've got a plastic welding gun somewhere (somewhere - I haven't used it in
years). I thought about tracking it down to try out on the CAS but I was a bit
worried about applying too much heat on the connector (ie temp too high). From
memory, the welder temp is settable from about 200oC to 600oC (but I'm not
entirely sure).


QUESTIONS:
Have you used this hair-dryer technique before? How easy to get a result? Easy &
good for confirmation?

It would be nice to know how high a temp can be applied (and for how long) - that
is to say, everything is "measured". Do we know anything about that working temp,
or max temp?

Is applying high heat for too long going to PRODUCE a failure on a good CAS?

lout!!!

Does any of the crew have a known CAS issue - and can apply a bit of measured heat
in order to get some known/measurable/estimable results? Is that asking too much?

If I can track down my plastic welder what would you say is the right setting (ie
temp setting) to use? What can the CAS connector take?

It would be nice to have a great technique nailed down here, wouldn't it?


[For those of you who got down to here, thanks for reading. I look forward to some
feedback.]
 

lout

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i actually use a heat gun for paint stripping
but i use a scope on the dfi and you can see the signal drops out when hot
engine temp can get up to 120c so go crazy
 

ephect

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Just change it, the symptoms you described points to the CAS. Don't leave it to chance and end up stranded a long way from home.

Happened to me and I knew from past experience exactly the issue, but I couldn't make it home and ended up towed.

I don't believe heating it alone won't give you proper results as the surrounding parts engine arent holding the heat.
 
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