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[Ecotec] VT/VX/VY Manual Conversion tips
- Thread starter SpaceYam
- Start date
SpaceYam
somewhat awesome
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- 2014 Ford Focus ST
The auto electrician found an ECU for us and linked it, only problem we're having now is the speedo and tacho don't work... Apparently the dash needs to be linked, or something. We were using the auto PCM, but the idle was strange and the engine fault light was always on, I sent it to Dr Bob to get it re programmed but a problem came up with it so we're still trying to get that sorted out.
The car will run with the auto PCM, it'll just rev itself when it's supposed to be idling.
The car will run with the auto PCM, it'll just rev itself when it's supposed to be idling.
stevoss
New Member
okay i will go through the steps with the wiring as i get to it then, also if you need anything to finish your conversion i know the commodore shop at cardiff has the gear minus a gearbox atm
stevoss
New Member
Update on what i did today, disconnected the battery and removed wiring i had for my stereo through the clutch gromet,
To install the pedels properly here is a basic rundown sofar
1) remove the cover / trim piece which goes over the fuse box
2) remove the bcm off the mounts by pusing it backwards
3) disconnect the bcm, has 4 different plugs on it, and place out of the way
4) disconnect the brake and cruise control swithes on the brake pedal top
5) remove the 2 bolt on the right side of the accelerator cable bracket
6) remove the next 2 bolts which overlap the brake pedal
7) while holding the accel pedal pull the cable forward and remove to the side of the pedal
8) remove the accel pedal assembly
9) remove the 2 bolts on the other side of the brake bracket at the rear right side
10) slip the spring off the brake pin at the top of the assembly
11) using a flat head screw driver carefully remove the tin clip on the pin and remove the pedal top half off to the side of it.
12) remove the 3 bolts on the top of the brake bracket bolting it too underneath the dash.
13) remove the gromit the firewall located to the left of the brake pedal
14) undo both the bolts on the brake booster in the engine bay and the one holding the bracket on the master
15) gently pull forward being careful not to bend or break the brake lines
16) this will enable you to drop the brake pedal down inside the car hopefully( i stopped here for the day and will continue on tuesday
To install the pedels properly here is a basic rundown sofar
1) remove the cover / trim piece which goes over the fuse box
2) remove the bcm off the mounts by pusing it backwards
3) disconnect the bcm, has 4 different plugs on it, and place out of the way
4) disconnect the brake and cruise control swithes on the brake pedal top
5) remove the 2 bolt on the right side of the accelerator cable bracket
6) remove the next 2 bolts which overlap the brake pedal
7) while holding the accel pedal pull the cable forward and remove to the side of the pedal
8) remove the accel pedal assembly
9) remove the 2 bolts on the other side of the brake bracket at the rear right side
10) slip the spring off the brake pin at the top of the assembly
11) using a flat head screw driver carefully remove the tin clip on the pin and remove the pedal top half off to the side of it.
12) remove the 3 bolts on the top of the brake bracket bolting it too underneath the dash.
13) remove the gromit the firewall located to the left of the brake pedal
14) undo both the bolts on the brake booster in the engine bay and the one holding the bracket on the master
15) gently pull forward being careful not to bend or break the brake lines
16) this will enable you to drop the brake pedal down inside the car hopefully( i stopped here for the day and will continue on tuesday
stevoss
New Member
aswell its a good idea to grab a gregorys manual, it also contains the information i am using to remove and replace everything with the manual gear,
things i have found out aswell:
ecu and bcm need to be from the same car so wont run otherwise you need to visit holden apparently the can reprogram it
to replace the loom from auto to manual shouldnt be a huge problem as it looks like the looms should unplug on the ecu side of the car inside the cabin be pulled through the grommet, like you would if you were removing the engine, then disconnect every plug that is attached to something and run the manual loom inplace of it, yet to double check but will update later,
somebody said the throttle bodies are different and having sat in a manual commodore it feels less stiff incomparrison to the auto,
things i have found out aswell:
ecu and bcm need to be from the same car so wont run otherwise you need to visit holden apparently the can reprogram it
to replace the loom from auto to manual shouldnt be a huge problem as it looks like the looms should unplug on the ecu side of the car inside the cabin be pulled through the grommet, like you would if you were removing the engine, then disconnect every plug that is attached to something and run the manual loom inplace of it, yet to double check but will update later,
somebody said the throttle bodies are different and having sat in a manual commodore it feels less stiff incomparrison to the auto,
SpaceYam
somewhat awesome
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Hey mate, you don't need to go to that much effort to do the clutch pedal!
I just removed the panel under the steering wheel, laid down on my back with a spanner and undid the two bolts holding the brake pedal bracket to the top, removed the grommet for the clutch pedal, navigated the pedal into place, bolted it all on and then used a hacksaw to cut the brake pedal. Took 2 hours tops.
I just removed the panel under the steering wheel, laid down on my back with a spanner and undid the two bolts holding the brake pedal bracket to the top, removed the grommet for the clutch pedal, navigated the pedal into place, bolted it all on and then used a hacksaw to cut the brake pedal. Took 2 hours tops.
SpaceYam
somewhat awesome
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2004
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- 18
- Age
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- Central Coast, NSW
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- 2014 Ford Focus ST
Fair enough 
stevoss
New Member
what a big day, somethings just wanted to take forever.
had to undo the bolt that hold the braket to the brake master cyclinder, then remove the 2 nuts on the side, put to the side
in the car, removed the plastic covers on the steering colum, undid both of the bolts holding up the steering rack to the dash, dropped down a little bit out of the way.
while i was holding the master cyc i pulled it a little away from the firewall, which allowed more access around the pedal, then pulling and shoving and a whole lot of swearing i got it clear and the new one in.
also found out my clutch master and slave had shited themselves in a past life, so up for a $375 for 2 new ones.
back in the car i bolted the brake in first then colum, then clutch, then accel, manual bcm, dash back together and moved to the other side of the car.
ECU and wiring loom,
undid the kick panel on the passenger side, gently removed the clips holding the ecu in place, removed the harness of the ecu, and put to the side, removed what the ecu clips into with a flathead screwdriver, pushed in all the contact around the firewall clip on the inside and slid the loom through the hole.
in the engine bay i started to remove all the plugs starting at the injectors, afm, airbox, egr sensor, etc pretty much every clip which was connected to the loom i undid,
the loom is fed on the under side of the engine left and right connecting to the detonation sensor, which are a bitch, takes 2 fingers either side to unclip them and took a while, crank angle sensor, was alittle difficult needed a flat head screw driver, the nut needs to be undone on the drivers side part of the engine to the left of the tensioner as its got an earth connected under it, there is another one of these on the back of the inlet manifold on the passenger side 13mm will get that one,
i have done a little more than that but will fix it up later, tommorrow i will disconnect the selectors and loom off the transmittion and re-run the manual loom, while also removing the gear selector from in the dash, new flywheel bolts are on way, hopefully tommorrow is a faster day.
had to undo the bolt that hold the braket to the brake master cyclinder, then remove the 2 nuts on the side, put to the side
in the car, removed the plastic covers on the steering colum, undid both of the bolts holding up the steering rack to the dash, dropped down a little bit out of the way.
while i was holding the master cyc i pulled it a little away from the firewall, which allowed more access around the pedal, then pulling and shoving and a whole lot of swearing i got it clear and the new one in.
also found out my clutch master and slave had shited themselves in a past life, so up for a $375 for 2 new ones.
back in the car i bolted the brake in first then colum, then clutch, then accel, manual bcm, dash back together and moved to the other side of the car.
ECU and wiring loom,
undid the kick panel on the passenger side, gently removed the clips holding the ecu in place, removed the harness of the ecu, and put to the side, removed what the ecu clips into with a flathead screwdriver, pushed in all the contact around the firewall clip on the inside and slid the loom through the hole.
in the engine bay i started to remove all the plugs starting at the injectors, afm, airbox, egr sensor, etc pretty much every clip which was connected to the loom i undid,
the loom is fed on the under side of the engine left and right connecting to the detonation sensor, which are a bitch, takes 2 fingers either side to unclip them and took a while, crank angle sensor, was alittle difficult needed a flat head screw driver, the nut needs to be undone on the drivers side part of the engine to the left of the tensioner as its got an earth connected under it, there is another one of these on the back of the inlet manifold on the passenger side 13mm will get that one,
i have done a little more than that but will fix it up later, tommorrow i will disconnect the selectors and loom off the transmittion and re-run the manual loom, while also removing the gear selector from in the dash, new flywheel bolts are on way, hopefully tommorrow is a faster day.