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[Ecotec] VT/VX/VY Manual Conversion tips

Trev81

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Hi.
I've just swapped my ls1 motor into another ss body that was auto .. I've taken the engine loom to fit the ecu an bcm. Would I need to change the other side of the wiring ? I ask this as I have no fuel pressure, the fuses are okay an relay . Please help
 

Vyvpcalais

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Ok, we did the wiring harness last night, and I got the correct dust cover for the transmission from Holden. It was $15.85 with two new bolts. Installing that was a pain, so if you do the conversion make sure you already have the correct dust cover to save yourself an hour - 90 minutes of unnecessary work :)

The speed sensor was the easiest to wire up. I had managed to find a male molex - (close-ended pins) to a small female socket used for internal computer speakers. All we had to do was widen the molex end connectors to fit in the plug for the speed sensor on the gearbox itself, and then the other ends (which were folded up) were a straight fit into the auto speed sensor plug. We taped it all up to hold it all in place and insulate it, and that was it.

The reversing lights were a bit more tedious as the plug on the gearbox is right near the top above the slave cylinder, and I didn't know if they were pins or sockets. They are pins - and we had to use female molex socket pins, and then crush them slightly to make them small enough to be a good fit. The hardest part was locating the pins in the gearbox connector as I couldn't see it, but eventually got it. I tried to take a photo with my phone (which helped clarify they were pins) but that didn't really help in locating them.

To connect the auto wiring harness to this socket, we used some electrical wire with about 1cm tinned - I don't know the gauge of the wire, but it was about 1.5mm after tinning it. These were a good, snug fit into the auto connector. It was quite difficult to plug anything into the 7 pin auto connector, but once it gets past the initial entry point it goes in easily and is a firm fit.

Then we taped it all up and tested the reverse lights - they were working. Obviously we had to take the car off stands to test the speedo but fortunately it's working fine!

Anyway, in the image I've attached you can see the correct wire colours and stuff. (Edited 21-06-20 as the image was not available)

UJi8XM3.jpeg
Hey mate when bridging neutral-park wires is that the plug inside car that comes out of auto gear selector?
 

Phat l67

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The auto electrician found an ECU for us and linked it, only problem we're having now is the speedo and tacho don't work... Apparently the dash needs to be linked, or something. We were using the auto PCM, but the idle was strange and the engine fault light was always on, I sent it to Dr Bob to get it re programmed but a problem came up with it so we're still trying to get that sorted out.

The car will run with the auto PCM, it'll just rev itself when it's supposed to be idling.
Is there any difference and doing an auto to manual swap in a super 6
 

Immortality

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Mechanically it's identical except the L67 uses a different offset weight on the flex plate to the ecotec (these engines are externally balanced) so you will need to get the new flywheel mirror balanced to the original L67 flex plate.
 

Phat l67

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Hi.
I've just swapped my ls1 motor into another ss body that was auto .. I've taken the engine loom to fit the ecu an bcm. Would I need to change the other side of the wiring ? I ask this as I have no fuel pressure, the fuses are okay an relay . Please help
Mechanically it's identical except the L67 uses a different offset weight on the flex plate to the ecotec (these engines are externally balanced) so you will need to get the new flywheel mirror balanced to the original L67 flex plate.
Thank you mate
 

StatesmanFan71

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Ok, we did the wiring harness last night, and I got the correct dust cover for the transmission from Holden. It was $15.85 with two new bolts. Installing that was a pain, so if you do the conversion make sure you already have the correct dust cover to save yourself an hour - 90 minutes of unnecessary work :)

The speed sensor was the easiest to wire up. I had managed to find a male molex - (close-ended pins) to a small female socket used for internal computer speakers. All we had to do was widen the molex end connectors to fit in the plug for the speed sensor on the gearbox itself, and then the other ends (which were folded up) were a straight fit into the auto speed sensor plug. We taped it all up to hold it all in place and insulate it, and that was it.

The reversing lights were a bit more tedious as the plug on the gearbox is right near the top above the slave cylinder, and I didn't know if they were pins or sockets. They are pins - and we had to use female molex socket pins, and then crush them slightly to make them small enough to be a good fit. The hardest part was locating the pins in the gearbox connector as I couldn't see it, but eventually got it. I tried to take a photo with my phone (which helped clarify they were pins) but that didn't really help in locating them.

To connect the auto wiring harness to this socket, we used some electrical wire with about 1cm tinned - I don't know the gauge of the wire, but it was about 1.5mm after tinning it. These were a good, snug fit into the auto connector. It was quite difficult to plug anything into the 7 pin auto connector, but once it gets past the initial entry point it goes in easily and is a firm fit.

Then we taped it all up and tested the reverse lights - they were working. Obviously we had to take the car off stands to test the speedo but fortunately it's working fine!

Anyway, in the image I've attached you can see the correct wire colours and stuff. (Edited 21-06-20 as the image was not available)

UJi8XM3.jpeg
G'day mate, any hints on what colour wires are for speedo and reverse lights please? Doing the wiring for them and have found entire harness cut off! Been told to make a continuity wire from ecu to speed sender on box and same for reverse lights? Any help will be appreciated
 

Jett marasco

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Vy 3.8 manual swap
Just swapped my auto vy to a manual

I have left auto ecu and bcm in the car just bridged the n+p saftey together

I had a dead fuel pump so the car would crank but wouldn’t start to I replaced the pump

It started up but it’s running like **** all breathers are fine spark is fine and fuel might be fine all injectors are ticking but can’t see fuel pressure yet

Does anyone else know what it could be

Could it have to do with my flywheel if it worped or whatever or could it be something with the ecu and bcm
 
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