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VX Calais Gen 3 5.7l (MORE POWER)


New Member
Dec 27, 2010
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Sunshine Coast
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VX Calais 5.7
Hey Guys,

I bought my VX about a month ago now and I'm already needing more power. It's a stock 5.7 at the moment.

Was reading some other forum which talk about Supercharged options. Was wondering if someone out the has blown there 5.7l. Want to know how its turned out, power increase and if additional strength to the box or driveline was needed.

Cheers Drew


Evil is always around you
Jun 16, 2010
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At home
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The Wife
When thinking about Superchargers - start thinking $$$$ as it's all the extra stuff that you end up having to do to make it all work that makes the initial purchase price of the actual kit the cheapest part.

The total outcome in power and torque will be only as good as it's weakest link - whether that be injector duty cycle - then fuel pump, then intercooler - then extractors - then exhaust size - then your clutch/auto will require some attention (if it hadn't already) - then tyre size and grip - then you'll be sick of axle tramp and you'll buy a Harrop diff cover - then some of the suspension bushes will need to be replaced -then the driveshafts will fail - then the standard diff will cry foul.......and then you'll you want more boost to get more power - you'll get another re-tune - and then the pully system and belt drive will need to be changed - and you''ll throw in a more appropriate cam - and then your standard conrods/pistons will start hating you and then you'll need to rebuild the engine - and then you'll stroke it because you may as well do it whilst the engine is in bits - and then your fuel system will need to be upgraded again - and now that you've stroked it - your blower will be too small and you'll need to change that and then you'll need a new belt system and then your cam will be too small and now your radiator, oil pump, transmission cooler bla bla bla will need to be changed and then wallah - you've finished!

You've finally got it to all work together and you're the proud owner of the world's most expesnive Holden (you could have bought a Ferrari for the price) - the car is practically worthless, it spends 90% of the time in a dusty workshop, you're now divorced and you're forced to eat porridge to afford to put petrol and run it. And you'll wrap it around a tree because after all the things I mentioned above - you forgot to add better brakes!

....and yeh, I'd love to get a supercharger too - I'm forcing myself to eat porridge now - good practice!

Ok, enough cynical rhetoric----This is cut and pasted from a similar post I made four weeks ago on here:

"After reading all the posts it seems context, driving style, purpose, cost and ancillary equipment are not being fully taken into account.

Whatever system you decide the more boost you run the more it will cost exponentially in fuel systems, injectors, stronger diffs, driveshafts etc. With enough money - you can make anything work really. Not all boost is created equally though - 10 psi may not be the same as 10psi in another system due to one system requiring 15% engine power to achieve that 10psi and another only draws off 5%. Charge air at 10psi in one system maybe 140 degrees whilst another is at a cool 50 degrees depending on compressor maps and ease of intercooling etc. Therefore a turbo system may only need 7psi to punch out the same power as an 11psi SC.

For a start to clarify the LSx forced induction playing field we have:

The old PowerDyne SC sits here - no longer sold as they weren't that crash hot. Many a cammed car exceeded their power. (270-290rwkw)

- Raptor centrifugal superchargers (cheapest on the market at around $3,800!! (5psi) On 5psi you may get away with keeping standard injectors. Similar power to good cammed cars but obviously more Torque, better fuel economy and can be removed when selling the car. (280-300rwkw)
The Raptor "R' $4,800+ for a little extra requires injectors and works best with an intercooler - similar in size to Vortechs. (300-310rwkw)

- CAPA - Vortech centrifugal superchargers (around 5-8psi+ depending on pully and trim size) spend some extra dollers on injectors and intercooler and run 7-8+psi. (next cheapest on the market)
-Bigger Vortech T-trims and Prochargers sit at the top of the centrifugal SC tree and get big numbers on the dyno and work better with fully built stroker motors etc (obviously intercooled).

Some will say that the Centrifugal SC linear/rev related gradual build up of boost makes power delivery easier to get power to the ground on skinny 8" wide tyres. You'll still need to rev them though and then if you want to run more boost the rev limit verse belt slip equation starts becoming a problem.

-Positive Displacement starts getting a little pricier (twice - three times as much as entry level Centrifugal) but their low down torque make them a less stressful to drive and a better everyday daily driver option.
Harrop HTV 1900, HTV 2300, PWR-Magnanuson and the larger Whipples etc (300-380rwkw) (400+ for the bigger sized ones)
Some kits run smaller integrated intercoolers. The Best option for earlier Torque delivery for towing. Very good driveability, predictability - which if you're a turbo owner - the linear power delivery leaves you feeling a little dissappointed. Later model SC's have incorporated alot of newer coatings/material and lobe technology that make them considerably more efficient (less heat) and quieter than previous models. These guys usually love the whining sound and depending on SC model - can sound tough just sitting at the lights whistling.(less Police friendly)

Higher boost levels on all SC's means that adding Gilmer drives, crank driven belts become essential. If you like high revs, be prepared to go through belts often.

... And after all thats..... :lmao: We can then start talking about the extra strain on the driveline depending on the boost/hp you wanted to begin with....