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VX Heating Issue

photomanhayes

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Hi all, im a newbie here as of today however have been reading posts and forums for a little while especially since getting the issue I have now.

Ok long winded story coming up now.

I have a VX II wagon, I know stuff all about cars except this week, I have learnt sooooo much thanks to all on this forum relating to this issues below which have helped either fix some issues or eliminate others.

I have replaced my radiator (4 pipe), in doing so, I found the old radiator transmission line bolts were stuck together and cross threaded in some cases, the bottom transmission line from one side of the radiator to the other was been replaced, and it tight and secure, no leaks, no problem.

The transmission line which comes into the battery side of the radiator (as in where the battery sites lol no my radiator does not have a battery) is fine, tight, secure and works fine. The other side (filler side) did not tighten or join throughly however, it has since been tightened enough to stop transmission leaks, however, on that side of the radiator, there is a metal channel inside of the side tank which runs the transmission cooling, because of the way in which we had to secure it on the new radiator, it had initially moved slightly which allowed a drop of water to reseed approx 1 drop a second, not thinking this was a major issue for now, it is secured as much as possible.

I have replaced all clamps on the top and bottom hoses and checked the hoses to ensure no cuts and not stiff hoses so they appear to be fine, no leaks and function with flow.

I have replaced the thermostat, thermostat gasket and gasket gooed it up, initially when I put this back together, it did have a slow leak, and I continued to slightly tighten until eventually the leak was no longer in order to prevent over tightening or breaking bolts etc.

I found a big leak on the side of the heater tap, so asked a mate who told me to bypass it (the pipe has corroded) and run hose in and out of the 2 hose inlet/outlet on the side of the motor. the hose allows flow however it does have a small kink in it, I assume but could be wrong that a kink would not matter too much as my understanding is when the heater is off, no water flows to the pump anyways, is this correct?

My tempo guage prior to all of this happening usually sat without movement 3/4 of the way between 1/4 and 1/2 (the needle crossed over the first water squiggly print on the dash) hope that makes sense. even in traffic it would not rise or fall unlike my old VR, VS and Statesman did. Yesterday everything was fine, drop over 150Km throughout the day and everything was what seemed to be perfect.

Knowing I have a small leak, I checked the water this morning, I needed to put about half a cup of water in the radiator, then I drop to the shop (1 km), stopped there, went to servo, put fuel in, noticed some water on the ground (I did have air con on but the water was more than normal for aircon). The lady from the servo said it looked steamy when it came out, but they are a dodgy servo with a workshop so unsure if this was the case or not.

I didnt bleed the air this morning, only put water in and put cap back on.

What I have replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
Thermostat Gasket
Radiator Cap
Water in Radiator (50,000 times)
Transmission line from bottom pipes
Hoses and Clamps

Leaking From:
The radiator has a small pin hole leak where the fan screws onto the radiator on the filler side. The leak is under that screw extension tube (the screw goes into a bit which is like a tube/channel out of the radiator lol)

This morning, on my way home from the shop, the temp guage began to rise, got to 3/4 I pulled over, put in park and waited, it slowly came back to half way, but not back to normal temp. Then it began to rise to 3/4 and continued up until I got "HOT" on the dash, turned the car off, checked underneath, no water leak, check in engine bay, it looks like the coolant tube/spout/yellow lided thingy on the passenger side had water around it, but could not see leak from anywhere else that I know has a leak, so I doesn't look like it spurted from there or anything else.

The top hose was hot to touch, bottom hose was a little warm but not as hot as the top hose. I assume because idiot here didn't bleed it this morning that was from an airlock in the system?

The coolant in that bottle though was a watered down coolant not straight coolant as that is all my friend had at the time, so does this matter or should it be coolant only? In the radiator also should it be only water or water and mixture of coolant? I know im a noobie I drive cars dont often have to fix them but low budget you have to do what you have to do.

Thank you all in advance for your help, willing to try anything as this has been up until this week a great car, never had issues with it and it runs smooth.
 

monkeys437

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If it's got plenty of coolant and it's still overheating you could have air in the system. Did you bleed it properly?

I'd replace the heater tap, they're only $40 from supercheap just do it
 

photomanhayes

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cheers for the reply monkey437.

ok as for heater tap, figured ill just do that

with regards to bleeding of the air, this is what i did, opened bleeder up 2 turns, took cap off, idled engine, as water dropped below neck, filled it and repeated process, usually it takes 1 fan cycle to get close to the point where it drops down the level. I continue to do this until the water/air coming from bleeder is only a small stream coming out of water only, then I close off the bleeder and throw the cap back on. Is that right?
 
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