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VX L67 engine oil???

00vxsc

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hi all, i just bought a VX supercharged and am about to drop the oil and give some fresh lube!, question is, What oil do you recommend?? it has 150k's on the clock, the guy at the shop recommended some crappy old 10-30 SAE. hmmm not too keen on that idea without a second opinion, any help will be greatly appreciated.
 

chargedvx6

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Semi synth or full synth will be fine. Castrol edge 10w 50 or similar. I've been using Valvoline Durablend for $40 a pop.
 

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i use full syn every time.. expensive but its all helps
 

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cheers guys, ill pick some up on the way home from work, thanks again
 

Surfwagon

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There is nothing wrong with the Valvoline semi synthetics especially if you change oil every 5k which you should in a L67.
Another thing to consider if you go full synthetic now is that the engine may have only run on mineral oil previously and if so the rubber gaskets will have swelled to match the oils used going full synthetic now could cause some gasket leaking as synthetics and mineral oils have different affects on rubber
with 150k on the clock I would use 10w/40 or 10w/50 no thinner
my 2c worth.
 

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Another oil thread ???!!! Anyway, Surfwagon, a lot of Synthetic oils are mineral group 3 based, so have the same effect on oils. True Synthetics have Ester in them which swells the seals to stop it leaking (old synthetic PAO oils did shrink seals). What you will find though is someone may have neglected an engine and went to use a better oil, usually a Synthetic, or high quality oil, which will have better cleaners in it, and it dislodges gunk around the seal causing it to leak. Also in Australia alot of our Synthetics compare along the lines to U.S mineral quality, that the synthetic does have better flow and will go through a damaged seal more than a mineral may.........

OOVXsc - If you gonna change at 5000k's, just use an SL/SM rated anything, mineral or Synthetic. Synthetic you need to use till 7500 minimum k's for any benefit. Blackstone the biggest oil testing company in the U.S have tested millions of oil samples from all across the brands and have found no difference between good minerals and synthetics for the average user.
 

00vxsc

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Another oil thread ???!!! Anyway, Surfwagon, a lot of Synthetic oils are mineral group 3 based, so have the same effect on oils. True Synthetics have Ester in them which swells the seals to stop it leaking (old synthetic PAO oils did shrink seals). What you will find though is someone may have neglected an engine and went to use a better oil, usually a Synthetic, or high quality oil, which will have better cleaners in it, and it dislodges gunk around the seal causing it to leak. Also in Australia alot of our Synthetics compare along the lines to U.S mineral quality, that the synthetic does have better flow and will go through a damaged seal more than a mineral may.........

OOVXsc - If you gonna change at 5000k's, just use an SL/SM rated anything, mineral or Synthetic. Synthetic you need to use till 7500 minimum k's for any benefit. Blackstone the biggest oil testing company in the U.S have tested millions of oil samples from all across the brands and have found no difference between good minerals and synthetics for the average user.
cheers for that mate, ive picked up some 5w-30 valvolive duroblend (synthetic blend), according to your msg above this would be a suitable oil, thanks again
 

vxcalais_01

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cheers for that mate, ive picked up some 5w-30 valvolive duroblend (synthetic blend), according to your msg above this would be a suitable oil, thanks again
lol, use it through the winter now, but after that, dont go lower than a 5w40. At the end of the day 5w30 is the recommended by Castrol, and they certainly know more than anyone what to recommend, but personally i prefer 5w40 as our cars may burn or leak oil more readily when too thin. Also the HTHS or cushion of oil in the bearings is at its adequate protection in 5w40 levels and above. Its winter now and it will be ok, see how it goes, i think Raptorsc is using this now (5w30) in the test car.
 

00vxsc

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thanks vxcalais, ill remember 5w40 for next time, ill just keep an eye my oil in case it is losing some due to been to thin, BTW you a mechanic or something? seem to know your sh*t in regards to oil. Please dont tell me you are a sales rep for Castrol LOL.
 

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thanks vxcalais, ill remember 5w40 for next time, ill just keep an eye my oil in case it is losing some due to been to thin, BTW you a mechanic or something? seem to know your sh*t in regards to oil. Please dont tell me you are a sales rep for Castrol LOL.
lol, i am very far from being a mechanic, very far, just an enthusiast, but i talk to people who are oil specialist (tribologist), some lecturers, forum members, reading, trial and error, oil testing, when you see that tech number on a bottle of oil, give it a call sometime, and see what they have to say. They make the product at the end of the day.

If i was gonna be a salesrep, it wouldnt be Castrol ! I dont like some of their marketing etc. and grudge as they are the cause of confusion between real synthetic, fake synthetic etc, even though the others Mobil etc also didn't help. Anyways, they make good products, and on another forum, i talk and regularly read posts from someone who helped develop Castrol Edge 10w60 here in Australia. His knowledge on Oil, and Engines is amazing. If he says something is good, it has to be. The Castrol Edge range is an excellent oil(too expensive and complaints from guys in the U.S its too expensive there as well), Magnatec i dont like too much. Its really good oil mixed with really poor oil and sold at a premium, talked to someone recently who blew the seals on his Turbocharger when using it with a certain engine cleaner. Wasn't the oils fault, it actually proved it contained a certain seal swelling additive, which seems to work. Magnatec has creeped up to the mid 30's nearly $40 mark. Shell Helix Plus 15w50 and Valvoline Engine Armour range are a very similar make up, GRoup 3 synthetic oils, Group 1 mineral oil and some GRoup 5 Ester, which gives it that magnetic attraction to metal engine parts, as well as conditions seals etc.

Engine ratings sums it all up though, for the average user like you and I, when we go in the shop, we look for SL/SM rated oil, we know that it has to survive a certain amount of time in our engine without breaking down, and only causing so much wear. SM being the highest (SN soon to come out) is supposed to be designed to cause the least amount of wear over a longer period of time. Thats why i say any type of oil for 5000k's as long as SL/SM, Synthetic minimum 7500k's. Our mineral oils arent as good in general compared to U.S minerals, their minerals can easily go 7500k easily.

Let us know how the oil goes..........
 
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