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VX L67 engine oil???

peterlonz

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Good post with lots of info - too much in fact, I am now less confident about choosing an oil.
Yesterday I called Penrite & asked for a recommendation.
My vehicle is Acclaim series II, 140,000 Km, operated in SE Qld (Gold Coast) & used almost exclusively as a shopping basket, rarely running more than 15 mins with the occasional 30 min run about once a month.
They recommended HPR 10 (10w-50) which is a full synthetic; also suggested changes at 7500 Km intervals saying fuel dilution of the oil was the major enemy which would normally not be the case if longer trips were the norm.
I also advised I intended to use Purolator oil filter which I will buy from Amazon in probably box of 4.
Maybe this adds another perspective?
 

BlackoutSteve

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I disagree with 50 weight and Penrite's "Extra 10" recommendations. (However, I am a big fan of their products.)
-Which they say is to accommodate Australia's warmer climate.. Really? Last time I checked, the stock 195°F thermostat has the engine running at 195°F all year round regardless of Summer or Winter or Northern or Southern Hemisphere..
Only change the winter grade in hotter or colder climates, which is what the winter grade is there for.

The GM factory spec since the 1960's has always been a 30 weight and if you were to pull your engine down and measure your bearing clearances, they'd be maybe a couple of tenths of a thou different from the day the engine was built -which is f/all. So why the extra weight? I have no idea.
The only reason you might want to use a thicker oil, is if the engine consumes oil because the rings/bores are worn and/or your valve stem seals are old and brittle and letting oil through the intake guides.
V configuration engines' rings last 100s of 1000s of miles, but the factory valve stem seals do become brittle in ~10-15 years and 300,000Klms and do allow some oil to pass.
If your engine consumes oil (more than say ~0.5 liter per 1000Kms) maybe step up to a 40 weight. If your engine is healthy and oil consumption is less, stick with the OE 30 weight.
A valve stem seal swap is easy if you have the tools. I replaced my SCV6's and my LS1's seals with new Crane Viton seals in a few hours each.

I buy the Delco Synthetic Dexos1 5W30 from GMH. Ask for a better price. Several dealers have sold 5 liters to me for ~$45 each.
 

SM1D3Y

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I use Nulon 10w40w changed every 5000km's/3 months ... Full syn can't go wrong.

But I agree with the concept, changing average oil regularly is better than running 2 yr old most advanced/expensive oil on the market. If that makes sense. Just my 2c
 

shadetreemechanic

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Peterlonz, yeah youre on the right track with that recommendation.

Basically with your short trips you'd wanna stick with an oil with a low xW number, like 5W or 10W but thats not always a rule, you might wanna confirm with the oil product specs sheet and check the viscosity numbers (written in Centistokes or in cSt). For example the Castrol Edge 10W-60 is an excessively thick oil even though its 10W its more like a 20W when cold...you need a low number as that will help the oil flow when cold.

In addition you want an oil that has decent HTHS or a high last number like xW-50. This is for protection when hot especially important in Aussie summer stop go driving or racing. Synthetic will be better than an equivalent mineral in this respect and will last longer.

Lastly, resistance to fuel dilution and TBN number (thats the reserve alkalinity) is also very important especially if running longer life synthetics in your motor like for 10-15 thousand kays or a whole year.

Its up to you what you choose and there is definitely no shortage of choices. For what its worth im running Mobil 1 5W-50 which is a full synthetic that holds up pretty well to fuel dilution and thermal breakdown or sludging (not that the old Buick/Ecotec is a sludger like some more modern donks)

Btw, if you run a synthetic and change it out at 5000k you're really wasting your money...provided its not one of the dodgy semi-synthetics like Magnatec (retail version, not the Professional variant thats only available to workshops as thats good stuff)

Unless you race your car at the track any oil can go more than 5000k these days with only some budget minerals or dodgy semi-synth being unable.

And finally, since i already made this post into an essay i should add some info about running expensive purpose built racing oil in your street car. Some ppl see these oils and go "OMG, this stuff must be the best" and yeah it is but only for a specific application. Im pretty sure Motul Chrono 300V is one of those oils, its mainly grp V base stock and totally awesome for sustained hardcore racing...not so much for your daily driver Commy v6...im pretty sure it isnt good to run that oil for a long drain period (but i could be wrong i never used it personally)
 
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shadetreemechanic

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Edit: i don't recommend Royal Purple synthetic oil filters anymore as i experienced they get blocked up much sooner then regular paper filters. even before 5000 km.
 
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peterlonz

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shadetreemechanic,

Thanks for the contribution.
It does now seem that Penrite recommended 10W-50 would be less suitable than 10W-40, which as I recall they do not offer.
Nulon do, so maybe that's the oil (full synthetic) that I will probably use at the next change.

I agree also with your observation about using only quality filters.
But there is a problem:
1)Purolator refuse to answer my emailed enquiries about which part no is suitable, apparently they know nothing about Holdens & the Oz agent is asleep at the wheel.
2) Purolator filters may not always be fitted with an anti drain valve & the bypass setting requires higher pressure than most other filter brands.
3) There has been a good deal of comparisons made between filters, often by "home mechanics", & the results have sometimes been frightening.
4) In my view it is almost impossible for anyone to choose the best filter based on the published specs from filter manufacturers.
5) On reputation, Royal Purple & Purolator are possible the best choices - after a Holden OEM filter - after all GMHolden should know?
 

lowandslow

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Running HPR 10 in the Mrs Super 6 Calais. Been running it since 215,000kms and its just ticked over 312,000kms with minimal oil usage between services. Still have bugger all lifter tick even after all these kms.
 

shadetreemechanic

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shadetreemechanic,

Thanks for the contribution.
It does now seem that Penrite recommended 10W-50 would be less suitable than 10W-40, which as I recall they do not offer.
Nulon do, so maybe that's the oil (full synthetic) that I will probably use at the next change.

I agree also with your observation about using only quality filters.
But there is a problem:
1)Purolator refuse to answer my emailed enquiries about which part no is suitable, apparently they know nothing about Holdens & the Oz agent is asleep at the wheel.
2) Purolator filters may not always be fitted with an anti drain valve & the bypass setting requires higher pressure than most other filter brands.
3) There has been a good deal of comparisons made between filters, often by "home mechanics", & the results have sometimes been frightening.
4) In my view it is almost impossible for anyone to choose the best filter based on the published specs from filter manufacturers.
5) On reputation, Royal Purple & Purolator are possible the best choices - after a Holden OEM filter - after all GMHolden should know?

Yeah, Penrite do have a couple of full synthetic 10w-40 oils in "everyday" and "racing". I sometimes think they should reduce the huge range to make it less confusing.

The Genuine Holden filter is good. Its got paper media with metal end caps made by Wix Filtron in Poland. Just make sure you get the version with anti-drain as they do make one without for mounting vertically only. (Sometimes the parts guy is an idiot and give you the wrong one, not sure what application the non-ADBV one is for maybe v8)
 
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The1

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I'm running Fuchs 10w-40 fully synthetic oil and using a ryco oil filter for the missus VX L67. 15x,xxxkm's and changing the oil at 10,000km intervals. It's important to get the oil up full operating temp. If you only do short trips and don't get the oil hot you don't burn off any moisture which builds up in the crank case. If you do short trips only try and take it for a long run once every couple of weeks.

Yes a lot of modern oils run much less ZDDP however I don't see this as an issue as we run roller cammed engines. If you had an older engine with a flat tappet cam (like the Holden 304/308 V8) then you would definitely want an oil with high ZDDP.
 
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