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[Ecotec] VX V6 Supercharging

Immortality

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So I've decided on getting a Centrifugal Supercharger kit and I was wondering on what I'd need to change in the car for it to run 10psi. The Raptor Supercharger kit states that no tune is needed with 7psi but how much more power would that produce as opposed to 10?

Would forged pistons/lower compression ratio and a different crank be necessary? What would need to be done to the ECU, what else is not necessary but would be good to add on? And the 4L60E is rated to handle 450Nm, would 10psi exceed that amount considering the L67 develops 380Nm at 6psi?

Thanks guys
10psi would need a tune for sure, probably a bigger fuel pump. Stock MAF would probably run out of flow resolution which is why I think they limit it to 7psi with a stock tune/ tune limitations. Centrifugal works well on the n/a ecotec because its gentle on the bottom end because they dont start to create boost till about 2000rpm (raptor) which means you dont get the high cylinder pressures at low rpm like you do with a PD style blower.

Talk to Tim @ Raptor for more info.
 

2000.vx.exec

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10psi would need a tune for sure, probably a bigger fuel pump. Stock MAF would probably run out of flow resolution which is why I think they limit it to 7psi with a stock tune/ tune limitations. Centrifugal works well on the n/a ecotec because its gentle on the bottom end because they dont start to create boost till about 2000rpm (raptor) which means you dont get the high cylinder pressures at low rpm like you do with a PD style blower.

Talk to Tim @ Raptor for more info.
Fair enough. Thanks for that. If you were in my situation just going for a little more oomph on the street, would you just stick with 7 pounds to keep it cheap? Like would 7 still be pretty good?
 

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I would run higher than 10 psi tbh. If you're going to the trouble to add boost you may aswell make the most of that money. The transmission does not have a powee or torque rating where it will fail full stop . Transmissions and diffs are a reactionary component and the car is the load. If you keep the load in check via your right foot it will last. But if you want to be able to load it up and not worry you should ditch the 4l60e and move to a stronger unit.
With the engine if you want more strength get L67 powder rods from the US and use L67 pistons which are hyperutetic and have the right comp ratio.

On a engine like that you could run 15-20psi. If your engine is stock N/A power will be about with tuning and exhaust maybe best 130rwkw at 15psi with the right tune you could expect 240rwkw turbo that would be 260 but blower loss and general loss puts that down to the 240 range.
If you went 30psi which I doubt the engine could take, which you wouldn't. You might expect 350rwkw at 30psi on a stock (l67 powder forged) engine. This is why I recommend adding boost as it's easy power.
Say you go 7psi with a 130rwkw N/A engine you will get 50kw extra so you'll be at 180rwkw still slower than a 5l.

So you should look at increasing the N/A power too by adding a cam. The cam you want is one that has a power gain everywhere on the graph not a drop down low then a massive peak up high. You then need a double row timing chain and a ATI race balancer better springs stronger push rods better rockers and why not go bigger valves.

If you're happy with 200rwkw just go the 10psi blower. I get carried away :)
yeah good points there. I've heard of built 4l60s, would that cost more than just getting a T56 conversion kit? I've heard that's about 8 grand.

I have looked at the cams which is a good idea. Would I need the lower comp ratio for just 10psi and what would i need to do to the engine to run 10psi apart from what you've said about the cam, timing chain etc. and a larger fuel pump + ecu?
 

losh1971

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10 PSI I seriously doubt you will need an $8k 4L60e build. I can get mine built with stronger parts and plenty enough to handle 190rwkw for around $2k or better plus another $300 to remove and refit.

A HD 3500 stall is under $1000. I have one down from that 3500 stall just not furnace brazed that I had built and it was around $600 IIRC.
 

2000.vx.exec

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10 PSI I seriously doubt you will need an $8k 4L60e build. I can get mine built with stronger parts and plenty enough to handle 190rwkw for around $2k or better plus another $300 to remove and refit.

A HD 3500 stall is under $1000. I have one down from that 3500 stall just not furnace brazed that I had built and it was around $600 IIRC.
I meant the T56 conversion kits are 8k i think. $2k for a built box doesnt sound too bad.
 

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Power is an addiction/disease, one you can never have enough off. Start small than over time you can increase it and satisfy the addiction!

You can always add a fuel pump and other mods down the track.

TBH, for a V6 I'd be looking at doing some diff gears along with any power mods, they dont increase the power bur help you make better use of it.
 

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Power is an addiction/disease, one you can never have enough off. Start small than over time you can increase it and satisfy the addiction!

You can always add a fuel pump and other mods down the track.

TBH, for a V6 I'd be looking at doing some diff gears along with any power mods, they dont increase the power bur help you make better use of it.
Yeah thats what im after, mods that will make good use of the power too. I'll just start with 7 when I get the kit then and can just increase it like you said.
 
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