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VY Exec brake noise and movement

troyz0r

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Long time lurker, first time poster. If you guys can be half as helpful to me as you have been on the plethora of other threads I've found and used on here before, I'll be ecstatic!

Lately the missus' car - VY Exec - has been making a sorta grinding/squeaking sound coming from the front wheels (or I thought it was just the LHF, turns out to be both)

Had it up on stands today, I was rotating the passenger brake disc and I could see and feel that it was grabbing on the pad every 1/3 or so of a revolution. I've searched pretty thoroughly and have sort of come to the conclusion that it's a little warped, however I've also read that they supposedly tend to go a little off if the wheel nuts are done up too tight. Now let me tell you, they were so tight that the wheelbrace held my weight (85ish kilos), so I'm not entirely sure what the issue is there.

I checked the drivers side, just for my own peace of mind really, and found that it was a lot harder to spin than the other side, like someone was lightly putting the brakes on. Also, on the 9 o'clock - 3 o'clock axis, they move back and forth a good 10mm, maybe even more. There's no play in the 12-6 axis, only 9-3. This is with everything (caliper, etc) still bolted on. All I removed on both sides were the wheels as it was just a quick visual inspection between other things I was doing.

I'm sure it's an easy fix, but I don't like taking chances with brakes, and I don't particularly wanna see the missus wrapped around a tree cause of them.

I tried to explain it all as clear as possible, so if anyone could shed some light, that'd be awesome.
 

troyz0r

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I was pretty much positive that this was the case but wanted another opinion, and asking anyone in this house is like asking a 5 year old to explain quantum physics. Cheers man.
 

Pollushon

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The best way to tell if it's rotor DTV is via steering wheel and pedal feedback. Just noise can be caster, LCA, ball joints, tie rods or K frame issues, sometimes a few or all of the above. That said, rotors are generally the likely culprit. As for the drivers side, you may have a sticky calliper, often resolved by a re-grease of the slide pins, or worst case rebuilding the calliper (if it's the piston).

Iv recently asked almost the same question-answer was as I expected-replace disks and pads-ordered these on thursday:Slotted Pair Bendix Pads Commodore VT VU VX VY VZ Front Disc Brake Rotors NEW | eBay

Mate that looks like cheap ****, the rotors I mean. All that for $135? I learned that one the hard way myself many moons ago, had to get them machined after purchase, then raged up and threw the rotors in the bin after 4 months. You should have chatted to these guys: GSL RallySport - I grabbed DBA T2 slots and QFM HPX pads for a touch under $300.
 

mr calais 5.0

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Take the disks off and get them machined and then new good pads.. I got my front disks machined for 125 and pads for 75 and just a couple of hours of my own time.. Prob solved
 

Tree cutter

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If you have movement in the 9 oclock 3 oclock axis then it could be a worn tie rod end or play in the steering rack ends. If one caliper is tight it will buckle your rotor again fairly quickly. I had trouble with a sticky caliper on my Calais which kept warping rotors and found that it was caused by a buildup of grease under one of the piston seals. I just took it all apart, cleaned everything and put it back together with the old seals then bled the brake fluid. That was 18 months ago and i havent had a problem since.
 

troyz0r

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Sweet as, cheers guys. From what I read on the 9-3 movement, I was leaning towards the tie rod ends. I've just bought a VP so haven't really had a chance to check it out again but soon as I work it out, I'll chuck it up so other members reading this will actually get an answer. Thanks again, guys.
 
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