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VY inner tie rods

edals

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Hey all.

Not really a question but a warning to all. Not sure if it effects VT or VX
If your inner tie rods need replacing. They do not have locking pins or washers.
They have simply pressed the end of the steering rack shaft.
Not only does this make it difficult to remove, but impossible to thread a new rod back in since the thread is no longer a round shape, I have found out the hard way, I initially thought it was loctite holding since no washer or pin was present.

Rang a few steering shops and required it to be re threaded etc. being steering I won't be doing this my self not having the correct tools. So opted for a rebuilt steering rack.


Hope this warning helps others in the future.
 
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Jxfwsf

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Same on VT & VX, half the time it wrecks the thread in the rack undoing the rack ends.
30 second job to run a tap down it and very easy (once you have the tap) make sure to clean the thread out properly with brake/carby cleaner and use thread locker when installing new rackends.

Another problem with the racks is the passenger side bush wears in the rack itself, when checking it looks like the rackend is stuffed, if the boot is peeled back and do the same check you will see the inside of the rack moving up and not the ball joint on the rackend.
 

edals

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Thanks mate, thought I'd post this as I have read other posts for VX just lift the tabs on the washer etc, but not the case. I did check with the local mechanic and even he does not have the correct tap out of his 200 or so kit. It's 300k old and beginning to leak, was hoping to get a bit more life but oh well, ordered a rebuilt rack.

Thought I'd warn others before creating a un drivable car. Thankfully I've got 2 and not stuck. It was a super easy job to this point.
 

Jxfwsf

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m14x1.5 thread i think....
Well if it's leaking then no harm replacing it.
 

Greasy Hands

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I considered replacing these on my original rack before i noticed it was pissing oil absolutely everywhere. Sounds like i made the right decision replacing the whole rack, its still absolutely dry under there too.

It was so oily under there I considered removing the engine and transmission for repair / replacement. What an epic waste of time that would of been it wasn't even them causing the mess.
 

edals

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image.jpg

Well got the old rack out.

Awaiting the replacement to arrive. I removed the exhaust manifold on the drivers side. Few mins removing it saved hours getting access to the lines, I had to pull the low pressure line out with the rack since it was very tight, other was easy. Pretty easy job really.
 
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edals

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On another note, while waiting for the rack and cleaning things up, the nylon washers on the tie rod ends, are these required on the new tie rod ends ? Got 1 off but cracked the other.
 

Jxfwsf

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Won't cause an issue not having them, they're only on the oem ones.
 

edals

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New rack has arrived, the input shaft looks very close to the same position as the old rack when measuring the rods compared to the old one so hopefully no messing around with re-adjusting the steering wheel, tie rods are identical also to the GM ones, so easy to get the allignment very close to get to the allignment shop, that's 2 mins around the corner. I might try to take photos and write a how to since there is limited info on the forum re-installing.
 

vc commodore

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New rack has arrived, the input shaft looks very close to the same position as the old rack when measuring the rods compared to the old one so hopefully no messing around with re-adjusting the steering wheel, tie rods are identical also to the GM ones, so easy to get the allignment very close to get to the allignment shop, that's 2 mins around the corner. I might try to take photos and write a how to since there is limited info on the forum re-installing.
The steering wheel straightness comes from adjusting the tierod ends
 
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