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VY inner tie rods

edals

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The steering wheel straightness comes from adjusting the tierod ends
Thanks for the input mate, was just a thought I had and read that re Centering the wheel may be required if the input shaft is 180 degrees the other way. This is half the reason I made this thread is to get detailed answers rather than mutiliple threads all over the place. Have my torque wrench, torque specs & loctite ready for tomorrow. As James May quoted "There are procedures to follow, I like procedures"
 

edals

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Hey guys.

Very much appreciate the help with this job. Every thing was straight forward and everything lined up well.
Only thing was I had to slide the steering shaft on while pushing the rack back up into place. Other than that pretty easy process. Just waiting for the air to fully bleed from the system and ensure correct level before going for a drive.

Removing the exhaust manifold made getting to the rack lines a lot easier, Though not required I found it easier ,New o rings also installed. Also to add the low pressure line (19mm) was very tight, so I disconnected the hose clamp up the front and pulled the metal line out with the rack. The high pressure 16mm was easiest accessed via the driver side wheel well.

Here are the torque specs. Also used loctite on the steering shaft nut and the rack mounting bolts.
Torque specs as read in the Holden manual.

Wheels 110-140nm

Steering wheel bolt 40-50nm

Steering shaft coupling bolt -23-30nm

Tie rod end nut 50-85nm

Steering rack retaining bolts 70-85nm

Thanks again, sorry I did not have time to take photos, but really not a great deal to take photos of.

Cheers.

Update: went for a little drive, steering wheel is only slightly out, easy fix with wheel allignment next week.
Also the first few minutes of driving I can't believe how much more feed back I got from the steering, felt rough as, but after 5kms the steering felt nice and smooth, assuming as the ball joints free up and move easier. Excellent result.
 
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Bill Burford

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Same on VT & VX, half the time it wrecks the thread in the rack undoing the rack ends.
30 second job to run a tap down it and very easy (once you have the tap) make sure to clean the thread out properly with brake/carby cleaner and use thread locker when installing new rackends.

Another problem with the racks is the passenger side bush wears in the rack itself, when checking it looks like the rackend is stuffed, if the boot is peeled back and do the same check you will see the inside of the rack moving up and not the ball joint on the rackend.
Thanks for the advice about tapping down the thread as my VX II had the damaged thread on removing the ends. The fun is getting the correct tap. Do not rush to Supercheap and get a Tap & Die set as: 1, you will spend too much money and 2, it will not have the correct tap! You need a 14mm by 1.5 thread (that is a fine one) and the two good tool shops I tried did not have one (Stones Nowra and one at Coffs Harbour,) They had to order it in and they come in three types. One with more taper at the business end, one with an intermediate taper and one with almost no taper to run the thread to the end. I used the one with the most taper and it worked a treat. You only need an open end spanner, around 10 to 12mm to use it. Expect to pay $18 to $25 for the tap – much cheaper than the $52 on special for the set at Supercheap.

I strongly suggest getting the tap before starting the job, because once you get one of the ends out the car is immobile with no tap, unless of course your car had a lock washer instead of the pinched ends. You can always check you have the right tap by comparing it with the new ends you have. Perhaps take the new ends with you when you pick up the tap to make sure you have the right one. DO NOT FORGET THE LOCKTITE WHEN YOU PUT THE NEW ENDS ON!! And rule #2, DO NOT FORGET THE LOCKTITE!

One more thing, if you have suitable sized hose clips, preferably stainless so you can undo them at a future date, they will replace the destroyed clamps on the rubber boots. I used them on a boot three years ago and they were fine when I did the rack ends today.
 
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plazma

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I came across this today, was doing a bunch of stuff (water pump, new front struts, brakes and checking center bearing and couplers to do next week) so i thought id do the tie rods first up... i get 1 side off and then try to refit the new inner tie rod in and bloody hell it wont go, mate notices the old rod thread and i was pissed... who cross threads a bloody tie rod.

I was thinking of doing the entire rack at this point, which doesnt look inviting as the headers are in the way but later on my mate shoots me this thread.

Oh well, off to a trade tool place to buy a tap.

Thanks for all info in here, super useful.

Ill update how it all went once i get the tap.
 

TheIceman

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who cross threads a bloody tie rod.
idiots who arent mechanics trying to save a dollar by doing it themselves and put everyone elses including their own life in danger.
 

plazma

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idiots who arent mechanics trying to save a dollar by doing it themselves and put everyone elses including their own life in danger.
You mustn't have actually read the thread properly.

If you read the thread you'll find thats how the inner tie rods always come off, holden press them on at the factory. They always need retaping.
 

vc commodore

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You mustn't have actually read the thread properly.

If you read the thread you'll find thats how the inner tie rods always come off, holden press them on at the factory. They always need retaping.
Firstly, VY's don't have inner tierods.

2ndly, the rackend, which the tierod attaches to and then attaches at the end of the rack, unscrews.....They have a washer folded over the end, to prevent the rackend from undoing....It is a common problem, where knuckle heads don't bend the end of the washer flat to undo the rackend, therefore they stuff the thread.

Oh and no I didn't read the thread, but might have done a few thousand rackends on this era commodore
 

plazma

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Where is this washer? The tie rod i just took off didn't have a washer and the tie rod i bought to replace it which is for a vy also dont have a washer.
 

vc commodore

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Where is this washer? The tie rod i just took off didn't have a washer and the tie rod i bought to replace it which is for a vy also dont have a washer.
The washer is on the end of the rackend, where it screws into the end of the rack.....The rackend is the part the tierod screws onto...And did you notice, the tie rod end just unscrewed off, once the 15/16 nut was loosened off?
 

plazma

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The rack end of the tie rod had/has no washer, no locking pin, nothing, it was just a straight screw out of the rack with a tie rod removal tool. there was nothing holding the rack end in place other than the fact it was screwed into the rack and there was no washer or locking pin on the rack either.

The OP also stated in his first post "there is no washer or locking pin". There might be on a VX but there sure wasn't on my VY.
 
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