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VY LS1 Air Con Fault

Fu Manchu

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The old factory VP manual said to not oil the seals, and the VZ factory manual says not to. The VE one says not to and the VF ones does as well.
 

ant797

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dont know if this is throwing you off track but could try replacing the resister
 

Fu Manchu

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I was told to oil the O-rings to avoid pinching when doing up, seals you don't cause it will leak, rubber O-rings wont.

I too was taught the same thing, however after having some problems on my VP back in the day, I learnt this when the system kept leaking. It was mentioned to me by a Holden Technician.

I also had this clarified when fitting the seals in the VE AC. The aircon guy said oil them, Holden said what ever I do, don't. Forum said don't.

Holden mention as a special note (in red):
"Important: DO NOT coat the NEW sealing washers (2) with oil, they must be fitted dry. The use of mineral oil will render the sealing washers (2) useless, as the sealing washers (2) WILL swell causing refrigerant to leak out."
 

Trevor loves holden.

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The use of mineral oil will render the sealing washers (2) useless, as the sealing washers (2) WILL swell causing refrigerant to leak out."
You use oil from the A/C unit not normal oil or any other lubricant except A/C PAG oil, never seen a O-ring swell even if it did wouldn't that make the thing even tighter, if it causes them to shrink well then they may leak or even crack. I didn't use much just enough to make it moist. PAG oil is synthetic lubricant not mineral based. The green O-rings ( HNBR ) are designed for 134a refrigerant and PAG oil, so the oil has no effect on the O-ring.
Everyone to them selves.
 

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Did a little recherche on Hychill minus 30 vs 134a it turns out 134a is toxic even the PAG oil is also it has the effect to make acid rain, it turns out all the trash talk about Hychill being a bomb if it explodes was only mentioned because of fear mongrels greedy corporations who created 134a which is also explosive and toxic that's why only licenced people can use it, Hychill is non-toxic and is better performing colder vents than 134a, its also keeps your compressor cooler and doesn't load your car up so its better for fuel economy + HP, they go on and say Hychill to explode you need to have the right air to fuel ratio to ignite so its pretty well safe and better for your cooling system as it doesn't corrode the insides like 134a does that's why they recommend flushing as 134a causes blockages, instead of using 800grams of 134a you only need a 3rd which is 240 grams of hychill which you can buy in a 300g can or a 425g on one site for 35 bucks and do it yourself as no licence is required, they recommend their own oil as its a mineral base non-toxic but say its safe to use with PAG oil, also safe to use in 134a or r12 systems without modification's .

After experiencing both refrigerants now my next service I will go back to hychill minus 30 because its much colder for one and saves your pocket and wont bog down your engine as much and of course wont harm your system like 134a. I went to 134a because I had a leak in my compressor and lost it all but it was nice and cold so cold that I felt it in my bone in my wrist, this 134a takes the edge off but you need to be driving over 80km per hour for almost 30 min before you can feel any major different, I took it back as I thought it wasn't working so they tested it 1 month on and said its fine and tell me its probably something to do with my trans cooler blocking 1/4 air to the condenser, never was a issue with Hychill minus 30. Hope this helps you guys.
 

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Bad diode in the clutch system, test the wires using a test light putting neg onto the neg wire and positive to battery if it glows its working same with power side but the other way round, if your compressor diodes gone bad your system will tell it to shut off. Also if your car temp reading high temp it can also trip the A/C off. Best to book it in to a auto elect before summer hits. Good luck.

Trevor,
I pulled out the BCM and PCM - plugged it all back in. The ac now works.

I did the power testing as you suggested here and the ac is getting power.

If the AC diodes are on the way out, would the system work on and off?

what’s the best way to test the diodes?
 

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Either they work all don't, you can test them with a multimeter to see if they not leaking back that not necessary if they are working.
 

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Would that be through carefully placed propaganda like this?
https://www.airchill.net.au/auto-motive-air-conditioning-gases.html
Just proves my point, if 134a toxic and can cause climate problems and acid rain then why not just keep r12 not much different, I suppose the people who make it are paying a lot of money to keep their product in circulation ( Hush money )
I'm thinking now even though I just did my service 6 months ago I might just get rid of the 134a and go back to hychil to enjoy the colder vents but first I will change my condenser and drier that should fix any blockage issue from the toxic PAG oil. Its only money..
 

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So,

Now the ac is not working haha. This is killing me and mugging me off.

Tested or the power to the compressor and now there is none (unless I jump the relay). Some from all your help and running different tests, appears that for some reason the relay is not getting the earth signal to power the compressor.

I swapped pressure switches and tested the pressure switch lines and still the same.

The compressor has a good power line and earth line.

I think it is off to the auto elecy to figure out why the relay is not getting the earth signal.
 
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