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Vy or vz?

Discussion in 'VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)' started by Ollymc06, May 14, 2020 at 8:42 PM.

  1. Ollymc06

    Ollymc06 New Member

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    Gday guys I’m 17 and looking at getting a commodore soon. I’ll be looking at spending about $4000 and want to get some more opinions on what car to go for as I don’t have a lot of knowledge of commodores. I was thinking about getting a vy as I heard their ecotech engine is supposed to be bulletproof but there don’t seem to be many popping up around perth lately. There’s been a lot of vz’s with low ks that I’ve seen but I’ve heard a lot of mixed opinions with them about expensive fixes such as timing chain etc. I’ll be going to uni in a few months and want something that’s going to be reliable and relatively cheap to run. Will it be worth waiting for a good vy to pop up or do people seem to exaggerate the issues with the vz? And with $4000 how many kms should I expect? Cheers guys any help is much appreciated
     
  2. keybored68

    keybored68 New Member

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    My VZ needed timing chain replacement at 200K's. Wasn't the timing chain that was faulty, but rather the plastic chain guides wore through and the chain lost tension. When I did the chain replacement, engine was full of oily sludge, have since become aware this is common problem with the Alloytec, and oil changes should have been done more often. So if you're looking at a VZ, you'd want one that you know has been looked after. Haven't had any experience with the Ecotec so can't compare.
     
  3. Ollymc06

    Ollymc06 New Member

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    Ok cheers mate. Yeah I heard that with alloytechs oil changes need to be done a bit more frequently then usual.
     
  4. Crowny

    Crowny Member

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    I have had both a VY and VZ and while a lot of others will probably disagree with me I prefer the VZ. The VZ I find handles better (I think there was a change made between the models to improve this) and I haven't had any of the sludge or timing chain issues coming up on eight years this year. However I do change the oil regularly (no more than 5,000kms). The issues that I have had are radiator (which also went on the VY), dodgy injector and coils however chances are you could get these issues no matter what the car.
     
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  5. Ollymc06

    Ollymc06 New Member

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    Ok cheers crowny, what year vz do you have? And what years are the best to go for?
     
  6. Crowny

    Crowny Member

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    Mine is 2006 so would be one of the later ones. Others on the forum might be able to point out which series of engine numbers are less likely to have the timing chain issues. I can check the plate of mine if you like to check which series of engine numbers mine is.
     
  7. Ollymc06

    Ollymc06 New Member

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    Yeah if you could do that mate that would be great. I’ve heard people on here saying that the earlier models seemed to have less of an issue with timing chains. I know that every car is going to have its issues but it’s just some issues are more expensive to fix.
     
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  8. Crowny

    Crowny Member

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    Just checked for you. My engine is LEO. Others on the forum will tell you whether they are the ones with timing chain issues or not.
     
  9. Ollymc06

    Ollymc06 New Member

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    Ok cheers for your help
     
  10. Drawnnite

    Drawnnite Obviously Unsensible

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    I would recommend trying to buy one that has no modifications and if you can try buy the models that have the most safety (generally a Berlina or Calais if money permits).
    Being its a first car as such, youll want to reduce any extra insurance costs and have whatever is the safest for while you learn how to deal with every other muppet on the road.

    As for maintenance, find one with a good history and frequent servicing.
    Which should flag any issues like services that have been missed, extra changes that have been made or if its been driven more for highway kms or lots of stop start.

    And just to add, be cautious if it doesn't come with a roadworthy.
    Having a look some say "it only needs this to get one" if that's the case then why wouldn't they be keen to get one sorted themselves if it is such a small thing to do.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2020 at 8:12 AM
  11. eliseviv

    eliseviv New Member

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    Hi Oily. My daily is a boring as white 2005 LEO VZ, which i bought with 188k on it. I was commuting mackay-townsville weekly racking up 1000km s week. For 3 years. The failures, oil pressure switch and a coil pack, neither stopped me on the side of the road. When i was doing the big km, i did spend 2 or 3 hours a month on maintenance, oil changes brakes spakplugs etc, but thats normal. Cheapest and most comfortable km ive ever done. (And still run down to bunnings every weekend...i walk to work these days :)). Never owned a VY so cant compare.
     
  12. eliseviv

    eliseviv New Member

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    Oh and thr car is at 340k now. She is done in... but owes me nothing, and worth the annual rego for the 5000km a year i now do. ..wouldnt chop her in for a buzz box ...
     
  13. rambunctious

    rambunctious Well-Known Member

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    As a family we are on our 4th VZ in about 11 years, 2 sedans and 2 wagons, the present wagon being May 07 build now showing 180000 k's and current sedan showing 130000 k's.
    I like them and the this forum is always helpful.
    None of them have had chain problems, just the usual O rings on filler neck just done last week, radiator, water pumps, coils, plugs, tyres, all general maintenance stuff.
    Had to do the harmonic balancer on a sedan and one O2 sensor on the current wagon.
    I understand they are cars with lots of moving parts so there will always be things to fix, so more you can learn and do yourself means more money in your pocket, and always shop parts prices around.
    Last week I managed to get gasket/O ring prices down from $100 to $64 by making a few phone calls.
    I also bought a scanner from Aldi for $50 and it shows me any problems.
     
  14. DavesSV6Tonner

    DavesSV6Tonner Active Member

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    G/day Olly, I haven't owned a VY but I do have a 2004 VZ 1 Tonner and the wife had a VS Ecotech. Both owned from new.
    My VZ has around 153k on it now and whilst the timing chain has not been an issue (yet) I have been through 2 engine management computers, 1 body control module, 3 radiators, on the second A/C condensor, replaced all the injectors and coil packs, on the third water pump, 2nd starter motor, replaced the castor bar bushes, had a massive oil leak in the transmission, new engine mounts, 4th or 5th battery and I'm sure there are a few other things that are not considered normal service items. On the other hand the VS Ecotech engine had 280k when we disposed of the car and only ever replaced spark plugs, injectors, two radiators, alternator, power steering pump and rocker cover gaskets + batteries & normal consumable items. By far the VS was the more reliable car.
    Sometimes I wish I had looked harder for a good low km VY I tonner instead of buying my VZ money pit.
    Just remember, if it's got tits or wheels it will suck your wallet dry.;)
     
  15. Ollymc06

    Ollymc06 New Member

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    Cheers everyone for replying. From what I’ve heard the vys seem to be a bit more reliable overall but but so are vzs if they’ve been looked after and kept really up to date with oil changes etc. I think buying a second hand car is a bit of luck of the draw sometimes depending on how they’ve been treated. I’m still a bit undecided of which to go for. I think as long as I get one with decently low kms and full log book history either one shouldnt make too much of a difference. Cheers everyone
     
  16. commodore665

    commodore665 expat Saffa

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    Scan0002 (2).jpg
    hey man , check this on the Alloytec timing chain issue, have a look at the engine numbers on the VIN
     
  17. Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

    Big Red VF-SII Go-kart I love puddles.

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    If the VZ has been driven sensibly, looked after inside and out and serviced on spec as and when due with nothing missed, go for it. There are a few things to keep an eye out for in a moment.

    I never expected to own a VZ for 9 years and take it "around the block" with nothing more required than routine servicing. Would I say they are reliable? Yes, definitely, if you get one that has been looked after.

    VZ Alloytec engines did have a timing chain issue affecting around 20,000 engines at full production. They would usually start rattling when cold starting, anywhere between 48,000 and 70,000km. Replacement by a service centre is undeniably costly, around $2,500 to $3,000+ and 2 days off the road. Yes, it can be done by competent and knowledgeable DIYers at home that will cut out the enormous labour cost (parts alone are $700 on average).

    The best advice is to look around at a lot of VZs, and scrutinise the service history and driving/road performance, not just a doddle around the suburbs but at freeway speed.

    The anti-sway bar at the rear, along with shock absorbers, brake rotors and weak front springs frequently show up as areas of neglect in used VZs. Most have the desirable FE2 suspension that maintains a level on cornering, but is shocking (literally!) on rough roads and corrugations, extremely so with 17" wheels shod with low profile tyres. Travelling at speed with low profile tyres and RE2 suspension on rough, corrugated roads can break internal trim fittings.

    Other things that will require replacement over time are spark plugs (not DIY if you are not techie), coolant pump and upper/lower housings and the essential 100,000km auto transmission service (look for this to have been done in service records). The windscreen washer bottle is also prone to splitting and leaking. Replacements on eBay are SH!T quality, so if you find this leaky bit, get another from wreckers. Fitting is an exercise in patience and tempering your language...

    VZs have a sort-of-fancy 'instant start': one flick of the key, 1 crank and the engine fires up. If it does not, the starter motor, relay, spark plugs or ECU may have tripped on a fault. The starter motor never gave me any troubles but the engine would not kick after the flick, and worn spark plugs were found responsible for this.

    Take somebody experienced with you on the test drive who can listen for whining from the engine (belt pulleys, usually), rattling at start up (timing chains, and when very worn it will be quite a din!), misfires and note any pronounced drifting or pulling of steering at speed, which can indicate suspension trouble or steering misalignment) or both, plus more.

    As you will be a uni student, it is I think, critical to choose very carefully so your financial situation going forward is not hijacked unexpectedly by a terminally troublesome or unreliable car.

    EDIT: The VZ I traded-in was bought by an 18-year old commencing uni in Melbourne.
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2020 at 3:27 PM
  18. gungazza

    gungazza Well-Known Member

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    im doing my chains at the moment, parts. gaskets ,oil pump $950 specil tools if ya cant borrow them $300 plus
     
  19. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    I'm going say VY.
    A first car, the Ecotec is an easy engine to work on for the most part and is strong.
    They are also a great engine to learn on.
    Insurance and rego will be cheaper too.
    Everything under the car is more or less the same.
    Interior is appointed the same.
    Hire a carpet cleaner and clean the farts out of the seats though.
     
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  20. gtrboyy

    gtrboyy Well-Known Member

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    ^^ agree.

    If you're the one who will be doing all the labour on the car emutech is easier to work on & availbility of parts.

    vz probably tad nicer to drive but either way buy cleanest low mileage with maintenance you can find.

    vy over vz for 6cyl models although for a first car or runaround boring ol' 1.6 auto getz are great value.
     
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