VY Steering wheel controls for Stereo

[wheelz_27]

Saw these infared buttons you speak of at AUTOBAHN, bout 200.
Richard, I have done the same as you, used hi/lo converter to create RCA's and a 4 x 50 Response amp in the boot to 6x9'z and splits in the front doors. Still run rear doors off head deck - standard power, so 6 speakers, but really you cant notice rear doors on or off at high volumes. I ALSO had the whining noise you speak of, regardless of volume it was there. I took all precautions - wired power down opposite side to sound, same size earth to power, good quality earthing, good quality wires. It still came up.
So i stuffed around a bit, moved some wires... still there... then i put everything back how it was to begin with and... it disappeared. I have no idea why, so sorry I can't tell you my remedy, but i think the story is quite comical.
So who 'professionally' installed your gear ?
I think the blaupunkt head is pretty good, especially now i've incorporated an amp and better speakers. I've got satisfactory sound and i havent had to outlay for new head deck and new steering wheel controls to suit. I reckon you could sometimes mistake the 6x9'z for havin a sub theyre great amped up.
Each to their own, just my 2 cents
PS i reckon response gear is great value for money
Cheers
Wheelz

 

[RichardW]

Nice thanks I will check it out, bit pricey but will be worth it.

 

[RichardW]

Saw these infared buttons you speak of at AUTOBAHN, bout 200.
Richard, I have done the same as you, used hi/lo converter to create RCA's and a 4 x 50 Response amp in the boot to 6x9'z and splits in the front doors. Still run rear doors off head deck - standard power, so 6 speakers, but really you cant notice rear doors on or off at high volumes. I ALSO had the whining noise you speak of, regardless of volume it was there. I took all precautions - wired power down opposite side to sound, same size earth to power, good quality earthing, good quality wires. It still came up.
So i stuffed around a bit, moved some wires... still there... then i put everything back how it was to begin with and... it disappeared. I have no idea why, so sorry I can't tell you my remedy, but i think the story is quite comical.
So who 'professionally' installed your gear ?
I think the blaupunkt head is pretty good, especially now i've incorporated an amp and better speakers. I've got satisfactory sound and i havent had to outlay for new head deck and new steering wheel controls to suit. I reckon you could sometimes mistake the 6x9'z for havin a sub theyre great amped up.
Each to their own, just my 2 cents
PS i reckon response gear is great value for money
Cheers
Wheelz

Was installed by Tonys Pro Audio, guy in a van came out. He knew what he was doing. We played around for ages trying to get rid of it. It didnt seem to matter what we did the noise was still there.

The blaupunkt head unit is not bad, but as it is not using RCA's good quality will never be there. I am hoping once I install a new head unit (looking at the Pioneer DEH-P5750MP) that it will fix my problem and also the sound quality will be increased.

I agree that 6x9's are great and a sub is just about not needed. But I am thinking of putting one in anyway. Thanks for the wrap on the Response amp's. I was thinking of buying one to power the sub. I have Pioneer everywhere else and Focal front speakers (very nice) Cant beat Bang for buck and I dont want to spend the earth on a amp for the sub.

 

[brockyslovechild]

Not sure how much truth is in this, but was talking to a mate the other night, he has a VZ HSV Maloo ute, he tells me pioneer have made a h/u that will plug straight into wiring loom and incorporate paddle controls on steering wheels! He has one on order, I've asked him to get me model number, when I get it I'll let u all know!

KeV..........

 

[RichardW]

Not sure how much truth is in this, but was talking to a mate the other night, he has a VZ HSV Maloo ute, he tells me pioneer have made a h/u that will plug straight into wiring loom and incorporate paddle controls on steering wheels! He has one on order, I've asked him to get me model number, when I get it I'll let u all know!

KeV..........

Hey Kev,

Nice one. I have found out a bit more on this too. There is a company called Stinger that imports a converter. They have different ones that will fit, Pioneer, JVC, Alpine etc. Costs around $200, the Alpine ones connect up easy but for other you need to run it by infra red. Got in contact with a guy from Stinger and he said JB HiFi sell them. Called a "CAT 08"

Let me know how your mate goes thought, I am interested in that.

Rich

 

[macdaddy]

hey richard i too have that whigning noise coming through my speakers!

but i have a vr with a pioneer head unit. i have been told of another guy with the sae prob n he took his car into the car audio shop where he got it fitted and had no idea what it was. i am really stumped as to what it is! did u ever find out what caused it?

 

[Rowan]

I called up Gary's Car Radio and was quoted ~$135 on a CAT08, give them a call.

Edit: That was for my brothers car, personally I made an interface board for my carputer using a Phillips I2C bus AI chip. Each button creates a simple resistance difference, so by putting 5v though the +radio button wire, and connecting the negative to the interface board, you get say 2.5v for the 'Mode' button, 1.5v for Next and so on, each being different obviously. This in turn controls the volume on my computer and other various functions I programmed in (ie hold Mode and press Vol+ will raise the antenna using another I2C bus DO chip, obviously Mode and Vol- lowers it).

 

[RichardW]

I called up Gary's Car Radio and was quoted ~$135 on a CAT08, give them a call.

Edit: That was for my brothers car, personally I made an interface board for my carputer using a Phillips I2C bus AI chip. Each button creates a simple resistance difference, so by putting 5v though the +radio button wire, and connecting the negative to the interface board, you get say 2.5v for the 'Mode' button, 1.5v for Next and so on, each being different obviously. This in turn controls the volume on my computer and other various functions I programmed in (ie hold Mode and press Vol+ will raise the antenna using another I2C bus DO chip, obviously Mode and Vol- lowers it).

Hi Rowan,

Can you please let me know the phone number not having much luck finding it.

Edit: You sound like you know what you are doing with electronics, I am a novice would not know where to start. Maybe you should start making them and selling them to stores and under cut the big companies.

Thanks

Richard

 

[RichardW]

hey richard i too have that whigning noise coming through my speakers!

but i have a vr with a pioneer head unit. i have been told of another guy with the sae prob n he took his car into the car audio shop where he got it fitted and had no idea what it was. i am really stumped as to what it is! did u ever find out what caused it?

Hey macdaddy,

I think our problems are different. But, Check that your RCA and Power cable is not running close to each other. There is a part that you can buy that you put on the power cable and the idea is to stop engine noise being passed through the speakers.

It is called a Car noise filter. Jaycar have some at http://www.jaycar.com.au/productResults.asp?FORM=CAT never used one but have heard of people say they work

Also make sure that your power wire doesnt have too much wire. That can lead to it.

Hope this helps.

Richard

 

[Phreddy]

Don't know whether this will interest anyone, but I've recently modified a Blaupunkt six-stacker to give low level outputs on the rear channels. It involved adding a small "buffer" board inside the unit, and picking up the signals before they get to the internal power amps - nice and clean. The buffer prevents any external loading from affectintg the internal impedances in the unit, and protects against any shorts and so on. I run a 4x50RMS amp as two bridged pairs into 7x10s on the parcel shelf. Existing front door speakers replaced with Boss splits (I know, cheap crap) but all 4 door speakers are only running from internal amps anyway.

Signal to the external amp is crystal clean - plus I also designed into the buffer board some switching circuitry for the remote amp power control. There's not much room behind the cradle, so the RCA sockets are on short lengths of shielded cable. Pins are hard mounted into the cradle and an additional socket mounted in the HU - that way it still slides in and out the way it always has.

All up it's worked out well. I have two other guys want me to do the mod for them as well! I've still got the convenience of the wheel buttons, cost me bugger all really. Plus the signal is remarkably clean where I picked it up from, it sounds great.

Oh well, for what it's worth anyhow!

Cheerz.