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VZ 2004 holden commodore ss 5.7l motor accelerator pedal no, 92210500, replacement

Skylarking

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@Graham Foss check out the following thread as it has some relevant info (though no solution yet)

 
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Skylarking

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@losh1971, used accelerator pedal position sensors will likely develop the same problem (if they already don’t have a problem)… New is always better so that’s a good find…

The best would be if someone redesigned these sensors so they are a non contact plug and play replacement which will solve the issue of wear for good.
 

Fu Manchu

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The (whole) accelerator pedal assembly is made by a company called PVI - https://pvi.co.uk/

The 9220500 is just the Holden/GM part number.

The bit that you really need to refurbish it is the angle/position sensor which is the module (with the five silver screws securing it) that the connector plugs in to. It’s this bit that is probably used in a range of vehicles. Can you see any brand symbols embossed on the sensor itself and any part numbers?

Do you have a picture of the connector (as there are a few different pin configurations used by GM)?

Also, this thread may help too - it looks like others have been down a similar path (but for the 6L engine?) - https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/accelerator-pedal-sensor.793474/page-5
and there it is on their main page
Screen Shot 2022-06-22 at 4.02.14 pm.png

Screen Shot 2022-06-22 at 4.04.50 pm.png

Ok, similar. The harness plug is in a different spot by the look. The pedal looks the same as VY VZ SS.
 

Fu Manchu

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At least we know what other car used those pedals. McLaren :oops:

I just found one the same as mine on eBay, second hand, "...447", $1000!!! Tell 'em there're dreamin'.
 

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The (whole) accelerator pedal assembly is made by a company called PVI - https://pvi.co.uk/

The 9220500 is just the Holden/GM part number.

The bit that you really need to refurbish it is the angle/position sensor which is the module (with the five silver screws securing it) that the connector plugs in to. It’s this bit that is probably used in a range of vehicles. Can you see any brand symbols embossed on the sensor itself and any part numbers?

Do you have a picture of the connector (as there are a few different pin configurations used by GM)?

Also, this thread may help too - it looks like others have been down a similar path (but for the 6L engine?) - https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/accelerator-pedal-sensor.793474/page-5
Interesting that in that thread, they don't appear to have found any differences in the board regardless of part number. The pedal assembly tear down was of interest to me.
 

chrisp

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Electrically, the sensors are pretty simple. Essentially they are a potentiometer (variable resistor) with a fixed resistor or two. The output is simply a voltage that varies according to the pedal position.

To make things safer, there is a second potentiometer that provides a second output, but to prevent one from simply bridging the two outputs together to overcome a faulty potentiometer, the manufacturer makes it a bit more difficult by making the two outputs have different scales. I suspect, from the thread by @Jolls that the 5.7Lt V8 is using a 1V-4V output on one sensor and a ‘half scale’ output for the secondary sensor (0.5 - 2V). it seems that this redundancy strategy (a full-scale output with a half-scale output) is very common and used by many different bands of cars and sensor makers. For example, Hella (another manufacturer) uses a very similar system - https://www.allhella.ru/upload/msent.pdf2html/31d/Accelerator Pedals Truck.pdf

On the face of it, electrically, there will be many different sensors that essentially work the same (electrically). The big hurdle is to find something that mechanically fits, and the other issue is that the connector might be different, but rewIring a connector isn’t that bigger deal.

I can think of a ‘quick and dirty fix’ that might get a fault accelerator pedal working for a short time. Open up the sensor and see if the two wiper arms (the metal bits on the white arm) can be slightly repositioned so that they wipe on a fresh part of the resistive element. They wouldn’t need to be moved by much, even a few thou closer or further from the pivot would/could get it working. This is just a ‘patch’ and not a long term fix.
 

losh1971

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Is it possible to swap to an LS II TB and fit a 6L pedal?
Pedals to suit LS II can still be bought new, and the OP could buy a spare for future proofing.
 

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I’ve been thinking and reading up a little. Just as an alternative approach, one possibility might be to repair the worn out section of the carbon track where the wiper has worn through. The thread by @Jolls referenced earlier has some good pictures that shows the worn carbon track - https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ls1-accelerator-pedal-position-sensor.281842/

The difficulty is getting the right carbon compound to repair the worn track. I did a bit of searching on repairing potentiometers as they are used in old radios etc. so I figured others may have worked out some repair processes, and what products are available. I found a good forum page with some details (particularly post #9) - https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/repairing_old_potentiometers.html

Interestingly, two of the carbon ‘paints’ that they reference are available locally (links below).

If someone has a spare faulty pedal assembly and want to try to repair it, I’d suggest very carefully and sparingly painting a very thin coat of one of the ‘carbon paints’ only on the carbon track with the wear marks - and not getting it anywhere else. Applying too much of the ‘carbon paint’ will change the overall resistance (and make it too low), so less is probably better than more. Ideally, it’d be best just to ‘paint’ the (wear) grooves rather than the whole track - a bit like touching up a fine scratch in paint work - less is definitely better. Also, the safety features of the car will check that the two potentiometers within the accelerator pedal sensor are within certain tolerances and are in agreement with each other, so it’s important not to change the overall resistance of the tracks by too much or else the car will fault the accelerator pedal and drop in the low power mode.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1253635...RsSM4yyu_Nz3xDOYbvS49teP81rdj67BoCC3MQAvD_BwE

https://au.element14.com/mg-chemica...-293946777986|&CMP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SMART-SHOPPING
 

Lex

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I’ve been thinking and reading up a little. Just as an alternative approach, one possibility might be to repair the worn out section of the carbon track where the wiper has worn through. The thread by @Jolls referenced earlier has some good pictures that shows the worn carbon track - https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ls1-accelerator-pedal-position-sensor.281842/

The difficulty is getting the right carbon compound to repair the worn track. I did a bit of searching on repairing potentiometers as they are used in old radios etc. so I figured others may have worked out some repair processes, and what products are available. I found a good forum page with some details (particularly post #9) - https://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/repairing_old_potentiometers.html

Interestingly, two of the carbon ‘paints’ that they reference are available locally (links below).

If someone has a spare faulty pedal assembly and want to try to repair it, I’d suggest very carefully and sparingly painting a very thin coat of one of the ‘carbon paints’ only on the carbon track with the wear marks - and not getting it anywhere else. Applying too much of the ‘carbon paint’ will change the overall resistance (and make it too low), so less is probably better than more. Ideally, it’d be best just to ‘paint’ the (wear) grooves rather than the whole track - a bit like touching up a fine scratch in paint work - less is definitely better. Also, the safety features of the car will check that the two potentiometers within the accelerator pedal sensor are within certain tolerances and are in agreement with each other, so it’s important not to change the overall resistance of the tracks by too much or else the car will fault the accelerator pedal and drop in the low power mode.


https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/125363540361?chn=ps&_ul=AU&_trkparms=ispr=1&amdata=enc:1WRvFKPaUT3aclk7usbIOvA69&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=125363540361&targetid=&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071354&poi=&campaignid=15984321586&mkgroupid=&rlsatarget=&abcId=9300814&merchantid=507149150&gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrsTM_pI4g2sNm9H8_QNeh9RsSM4yyu_Nz3xDOYbvS49teP81rdj67BoCC3MQAvD_BwE

https://au.element14.com/mg-chemicals/838ar-15ml/carbon-conductive-coating-12ml/dp/2811944?gclid=CjwKCAjw-8qVBhANEiwAfjXLrpfk9NRKTFfl1R84Bl5B1oCQnVI2UuMD8abG03KqgH4PP1es4NKIGxoCiyUQAvD_BwE&mckv=_dc|pcrid|501152839127|pkw||pmt||slid||product|2811944|pgrid|123988903131|ptaid|pla-293946777986|&CMP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SMART-SHOPPING
Hi @crisp. That first link is in Brest France.
 
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