VZ 2006 heating up when driving

[Confi]

Hey all,
I am hoping I ain't repeating the question but I couldn't find anything related.
Here is what happens to my VZ V6 2006 Holden Commodore;
I live in a hot country so AC is a must. The car started to heat up and overheat frequently a few months ago. I have replaced the thermostat; temperature sensor; radiator: radiator cap.
The cooling fan1 was also replaced as I had P0480 rrror code (fixed).
Now when I am driving with or without AC the temperature gauge fluctuates between 3/4 to half and a little above half and then falls back to 3/4.
When the car idles the gauge falls back, after a little while, to a little above 1/4 mark.
I have tried to bleed the system.
This has been going on for a while and I am getting worried for my engine which is pretty good for now.

 

[Confi]

Hello guys,
Anyone anything!!

 

[rambunctious]

Make absolutely sure you have bled the system via the bleeder at top of radiator, drivers side I think,

then next replacement is water pump.

 

[Confi]

Hi rambunctious,
Thanks.. I will repeat the bleeding process and hopefully it solves the issue. I have replaced the water pump a year ago when I got the car.

 

[Fu Manchu]

I would suggest the bleed screw isn’t the best solution but using a bleed reservoir mounted to the filler. Run the car through many thermostat opening cycles. Slight revs every now and then. The volume of air trapped will be surprising. Mostly will fizz, then really bubble up when the thermostat opens. Keep topping it up and when youre satisfied the air is out enough, turn the car off and remove the reservoir. Coolant will spill out everywhere so rinse down straight away.
Top it up again in the filler, put the cap on.

You can by proper reservoirs but I use a coolant bottle with the bottle cut off. Radiator hose around the lid, jam it in the filler, and hold it in wearing a garden glove or similar. I get an unwilling assistant to help with the revs.

 

[Confi]

I would suggest the bleed screw isn’t the best solution but using a bleed reservoir mounted to the filler. Run the car through many thermostat opening cycles. Slight revs every now and then. The volume of air trapped will be surprising. Mostly will fizz, then really bubble up when the thermostat opens. Keep topping it up and when youre satisfied the air is out enough, turn the car off and remove the reservoir. Coolant will spill out everywhere so rinse down straight away.
Top it up again in the filler, put the cap on.

You can by proper reservoirs but I use a coolant bottle with the bottle cut off. Radiator hose around the lid, jam it in the filler, and hold it in wearing a garden glove or similar. I get an unwilling assistant to help with the revs.

 

[Confi]

Hey guys,
I am still struggling with the "Check powertrain" error. I had a brake for a week or so when I replaced the Cooling fan1 and the error disappeared. However that lasted only a week or so when the error came back (P0480) and I have noticed that fan1 does not kick in when the temp reaches the mark line after the 1/4 mark. However when the temp reaches the halt point mark both fans kick in and temp starts dropping. If u idle the car the temp drops to normal.
I have taken the car to an electrician who checked both the ran and the fuses and Relays which all proved good.
My question is: Where is the Cooling fan1 Control Unit located?".
Hope I ma

 

[Fu Manchu]

ECU

 

[Confi]

Can you explain more?
Where is it located? Can it be fixed? How?
Photos would tremendously help me.
Thnx

 

[Fu Manchu]

It’s bolted to the front of the motor next to the battery. Above the alternator. Has two looms connected to it.

Some say it can be fixed. Others say get a new one. There’s a mob in melbourne that do ECU repairs and diagnostics.

A new one is around a grand. Then it needs to be paired with the car via specialised tools.

A 3rd alternative is to take a gamble on BCM ECU and PIM (with matching key head) from a wrecker that matches your car and BCM level.