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VZ rough idle/hot relays/alt overcharging/indicator stays on

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Hi all. Can anyone help with my 05 vz statesman issue. Has a rough idle that gets worse when warm plus alternator is overcharging, relays under drivers dash are scorched & LH indicator stays on after locking at times. 2 different mechanics had different takes on it. So I'll throw it out here in case someone else has had & resolved this issue. I am no mechanically inclined so I hope the above is enough info..,
Cheers all
 

plane driver

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The "sticky" indicator is a well known problem on the VZ. It has been discussed at length in this forum and you can find more about it via the search function. It isn't the indicator relay as such, rather the relay that operates when you lock or unlock the vehicle with the remote. The faulty relay is in the BCM under the dash or more accurately just above the brake and accelerator pedals. It is a bit of a sod to get to and requires some dexterity of the hand and fingers.
There are several sellers on ebay with a fix.
I used this one a few years ago.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Zettler...249086&hash=item1c8bfef0dc:g:C48AAOSwMgdX0h4W
I was going to do the whole job myself but didn't have the time or enough patience to do the relay swap and a work colleague who is a wiz with printed circuit board repairs (he does it for his professional work) offered to do it. Unless you looked closely and even then knew where to look you would not know it had been worked on. I did the removal and installation of the unit from/to the vehicle.
 
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Thankyou for your prompt reply. I'll get onto what you've suggested & I only hope the issues my VZ has are isolated issues & can be tackled one by one - rather than the issues listed being flow-on effects of one major issue.
I'll be back here to let you know. Thanks again.
 

Silverbird

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Any luck? How did you go?
 
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Any luck? How did you go?
Any luck? How did you go?
still nutting thru rough idle fix & no one can tell me why relays are hot. The link you sent was a big help nailing sticky indicator so thankyou.. have changed fuel filter & put Lucas injector cleaner thru to help idle an Compression test is next to sus out valve dramas etc if ness.
Strangely enough I still like the car tho
 

Silverbird

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still nutting thru rough idle fix & no one can tell me why relays are hot. The link you sent was a big help nailing sticky indicator so thankyou.. have changed fuel filter & put Lucas injector cleaner thru to help idle an Compression test is next to sus out valve dramas etc if ness.
Strangely enough I still like the car tho
I think it was plane driver who provided the link, and yes the sticky indicator/s is really common. Mine hasn't gone yet luckily. I had a few things contributing to rough idle, all caused by a careless mechanic at Holden:
1. One coil was inserted poorly, resulting in a pinched rubber seal, which in turn let water / moisture in and ruined the coil,
2. The gasket between the air cleaner and MAF sensor was pinched, so it was sucking air from there,
3. A thottle body clean had not been carried out despite my having paid for it.

You may be inclined to try cleaning your MAF sensor (using ONLY MAF sensor cleaner or you'll destroy it). Also take your throttle body off the air plenum, and clean it out with throttle body (carb) cleaner. Make sure you get all of the black deposits off the butterfly and the pivot points, and that it moves smoothly. Mine's been running its best since I did this.

A couple of suggestions -
1. Get it scanned for codes
2. Are all of the relays hot, or just some?
 
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I think it was plane driver who provided the link, and yes the sticky indicator/s is really common. Mine hasn't gone yet luckily. I had a few things contributing to rough idle, all caused by a careless mechanic at Holden:
1. One coil was inserted poorly, resulting in a pinched rubber seal, which in turn let water / moisture in and ruined the coil,
2. The gasket between the air cleaner and MAF sensor was pinched, so it was sucking air from there,
3. A thottle body clean had not been carried out despite my having paid for it.

You may be inclined to try cleaning your MAF sensor (using ONLY MAF sensor cleaner or you'll destroy it). Also take your throttle body off the air plenum, and clean it out with throttle body (carb) cleaner. Make sure you get all of the black deposits off the butterfly and the pivot points, and that it moves smoothly. Mine's been running its best since I did this.

A couple of suggestions -
1. Get it scanned for codes
2. Are all of the relays hot, or just some?
It's been scanned & no faults. All relays under dash (bcm) are hot. Alternator is fine etc.
... sadly mechanics want $120 just to look at it so I'm putting up with idle for now, I will try what you've suggested above tho Cheers
 

Silverbird

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I can't explain why all of the relays would be hot collectively assuming there is no nearby heat source. The overcharging and whatnot - have you checked the engine and battery are grounded properly?
 
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I can't explain why all of the relays would be hot collectively assuming there is no nearby heat source. The overcharging and whatnot - have you checked the engine and battery are grounded properly?
An auto electrician & 2 mechanics checked alternator & battery plus car has been hoisted to check all earths etc. The first mech to look at it said relays must be hot due to overcharging. The auto elec tested this later & said it's not the case. Seems that if the car doesn't literally tell mechanics what's wrong with it then mechanics are lost.
 

Silverbird

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Which we all know shouldn't be the case. As far as I know, the alternator has the voltage regulator built in. Given your situation, I'd be using a multi meter to measure between the chassis and the output terminal on the alternator. Then, if it is over voltage (more than +14 v at a guess) I would replace the alternator and see what happens. I base this suggestion on the assumption that the voltages are normal without the engine running. Your thoughts?
 
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