VZ steering wheel controls confused

[Aus78Formula]

Hi all,
My VZ has perfect condition steering wheel radio controls. None loose or broken. But occasionally if I hit Mute, it will change radio stations, or Louder volume will actually Mute. And yet, only sometimes. If you cycle through the buttons a few times they seem to start working again, but some of the wrong options aren't even on the same side like radio station and mute. WTF?!

 

[Fu Manchu]

i'd first be looking at the buttons.
Theres quite a bit on how to get them out.
I might have even posted how to pull them a part. (not sure if I did)

 

[Yomumma]

Mine does the same thing! It is cooperating atm but does its own selection regardless of the button I push on some days. My steering wheel has slight movement though, I was wondering if it was something to do with the movement in my S’wheel?

 

[lowandslow]

Never had a vy or vz where they ever worked perfect.

 

[krusing]

My VY does the same some times,
go to turn the volume down and that button turns it up,
with much playing around,
What I have done, turn the car off, lock it with the Remote,
Unlock it with the remote, and start the car, make sure the Key contacts the slip ring at the ignition,
and it all work perfectly.
PS: I just replaced the remote with a Genuine one a few months back, and it has not faulted,
Where the old one [original one] with an aging battery, probably could of been the cause of issue.

 

[chrisp]

If it is set up like some of the steering wheel control buttons on the VF, the buttons are simply switching various values of resistors across two wires. The BCM (or head unit?) works out which button is being pressed via the resistance it sees on the line.

So, if there are any bad connections, such as a failing clock spring, dirty switch, etc., the system will get confused.

 

[Aus78Formula]

Interesting thought about the BCM having issues. I've only had the car 6 months. On 4 occasions when getting home or getting to shops, I have been unable to lock it with keys. It starts ok and locks manually, but it's as if the key is suddenly dead, no response, no flashers. It's a new key, old key is the same. But an hour later, it magically appears fine. It has only been when trying to lock, so far, and straight after a drive with no issues. I haven't noticed this issue at same time as radio button thing, but I don't always touch them either.

 

[krusing]

Interesting thought about the BCM having issues. I've only had the car 6 months. On 4 occasions when getting home or getting to shops, I have been unable to lock it with keys. It starts ok and locks manually, but it's as if the key is suddenly dead, no response, no flashers. It's a new key, old key is the same. But an hour later, it magically appears fine. It has only been when trying to lock, so far, and straight after a drive with no issues. I haven't noticed this issue at same time as radio button thing, but I don't always touch them either.

Was it a Genuine Key Head or a copy/knock off ?
Was the new Key Head programmed in correctly with a Tech2 or similar,
or was it just duplicated/copied from the existing one that was faulty ?, as this could be the issue.

Does it work OK after you have had your Key in your Pocket ?, as body heat will/could warm the battery up,
Being batteries do seem to deteriorate/fail when hey have been in the cold.

If its programmed in with a Tech2 or Similar, it creates a new Key/user.
Where I programmed in my new Key Head into my VY, it has creates a new Key/identity in the BCM, and its hasn't faulted since.

I have a family friend that had a very similar issue as you, he brought his car around and I reprogrammed in his existing Key,
as the BCM it seemed to have forgotten it, its worked for a few days, and failed again.
I did advise to bite the bullet and get a new Genuine one,
well he ended up purchasing a new Key Head after his failed again, at the most inconvenient time for an important appointment,
I programmed it in the following day with my Autel unit, that was approx 3 months ago and also has not faulted.

Most of the Key Heads fail due to ageing internal Batteries.
On a side note : Don't purchase a knock off Key Head, Only Purchase a Genuine one,
yes they may cost an extra $10 > $15,
But the $20 > $30 knock offs fail,
then you will have to fork out another $20 > $30+ for another one, so it prob cost up to $60 + programming
Where the Genuine one will last a lot longer.
Sorry about getting off track, but the steering buttons errors could start from the faulty Key Head.

 

[Aus78Formula]

The new key was genuine, programmed elsewhere by supplied codes for about 90, not copied off existing. Haven't tried warm key yet. Original key is also genuine, just didn't have a spare.
I'm not sure the BCM would log any faults or show anything unusual, unless perhaps it was tested while in the act perhaps, which is rare.

 

[krusing]

"programmed elsewhere by supplied codes for about 90"
That's what I meant, they have emulated/copied the existing Key/s by code supplied, as its not the same as physically programming as new one in.
Where if its a new user/key physically programed into the system, that may fix the error.
Where are you located, in Aus / NZ ?,
Because if you were in Melbourne, your welcome to call in and I could suss the issue out.