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VZ V6 Manifold Torque Settings

Discussion in 'VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)' started by Growley, Jan 22, 2015.

  1. Growley

    Growley New Member

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    Hopefully an easy one. I've changed the spark plugs & inlet manifold gasket now I just need to tighten the inlet manifold bolts. I've found these settings in an old thread. Can someone confirm or advise the correct settings pls.


    UPPER INLET MANIFOLD
    ATTACHING BOLT
    TORQUE SPECIFICATION
    10 - 14 Nm

    >>> Haynes and gregorys have the upper intake for 23 nm
     
  2. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    my gregorys vz book says (for 3.6L) intake manifold 23nm, spark plugs are 16-20nm.
    hope that helps.
     
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  3. 99notout

    99notout Active Member

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    23.0 Nm in the genuine manual.
     
  4. Growley

    Growley New Member

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    Thanks guys. 23.0 it is then... :yeah:
     
  5. 99notout

    99notout Active Member

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    Main thing is always undo bolts into alloy when cold < 50 degrees c. and vice versa, and never use a rattle gun as it is easy to pull the threads out of the alloy component.
     
  6. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Growley, random question but are you an IT guy or something, found it interesting you referred to the toqrue specs as settings. Don't mean anything by this just curious haha.
     
  7. Growley

    Growley New Member

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    Got me! :whistling

    I didn't even realise till you pointed it out...
     
  8. exanVZ

    exanVZ Active Member

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    Me too, that's why I picked up on it, haha. :)
     
  9. JohannesM

    JohannesM New Member

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    Hi, I have snapped one of the longer front bolt and would like to know if anyone has any spare one of these.
    I have not removed the manifold yet as it all seems to work fine so. But when I do remove it I will need to find out how far down its broken and attempt to remove the remaining part. Any idea on the size/lenght/tread type of this bolt would also help.
    HAS ANY ONE ELSE SNAPPED THE FRONT BOLT, IF SO HOW DID U REMOVED THE BROKEN PART?? TX
     
    Last edited: Jan 14, 2018
  10. robgm

    robgm New Member

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    Actually, 23nm feels not that tight.. might need to use thread lock. I overtightened and then put my torque wrench on it and realised I tightened too much.
     
  11. shane_3800

    shane_3800 Active Member

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    Mate I just go untill they feel tight. probably around 30-35nm going off my well tuned click elbow.
    I just did an ecotec today which are 15nm lower and 18nm upper I did use my torque wrench (snap-on digital) but it's not crucial. I use my torque wrench as a guide on what feels right. It's all in the feel.

    On the same engine I did the rocker pedestal bolts upto 15nm then set the wrench to 30nm and looked at the swing and got about 45-50deg so went to 33nm and got an extra 5-10deg and felt them go into yeild. new bolt setting is 15nm plus 90deg which should come to about 30-35nm on that size bolt.
     
  12. robgm

    robgm New Member

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    Any issue if overtighten except stripped threads? I guess for the inlet manifold it might be possible damage that metal gasket or maybe not since its metal?
     
  13. Trevor loves holden.

    Trevor loves holden. Well-Known Member

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    Book says 12-18nm for intake attachment bolts, fuel rail and top intake 10-14nm, air intake chamber the same 10-14nm, any think more will bugger the gasket and thread.

    My bad that's VT, VZ VE 25nm.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019
  14. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    Distorting the manifold would be possible. That would lead to tiny hard to find/fix vacuum leaks.
     
  15. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    Factory torque spec is 23Nm.
     

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