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VZ V6 replace crank bearings

shane_3800

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Ground socket. I am interested to see if it works out.

The manual is pedantic about changing all the bearings, using the special puller tool.

But there are these guys at the wreckers here sitting in the dust in their undies building as many engines as they can out of the busted motors, with a handful of rusty mismatched tools, and their engines run fine.

It has made me disregard the manual more than once to keep going.

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

But I bet they don't reuse torque to yeild bolts as thats blasphemy.
 
H

harrop.senator

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Now I am worried! How would they normally pull the bearing plate out? I thought it would fall out when I undid the bolts???

Unsure about this "bearing plate " if you mean the main caps they're usually pressed on due to the torque of the bolt.

You can either make a plate and use dynabolts to grip the inner hole of the caps.

Or two main bolts and squeeze them together and then wiggle the fark out of it while pulling.
 

dooboolacky

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Just for the record,
I was asking earlier on another sump removal thread about if and where there was a flanged bearing in there somewhere, because all the ebay ads seemed to have one in their bearing sets. Anyway I found this nugget in the manual:

flange.png


and also the bolt tightening order /reverse order for undoing.

crank_bearing_bolts.png

Ignoring the last column/bearing plate/main cap(?) coz this is a V6, and looking up underneath
the engine to match the image, I was able to get bolts 30, 26, 22 and 25, 21 off with a
deep ring spanner. 23 came off just with a socket wrench but 24 needed a socket, universal joint,
and extension bar, on account of the steering column and rack in the way. I gotta remove the air-con pump again to get at 29, sadly. I was worried I was going to have to remove the exhaust manifolds and the engine mounts to get at the middle two on each side, but the deep ring spanner did the job nice.

There is no way I am gunna get those torqued to spec at the other end, but if it ends up at the knackers yard I guess its the least of my worries.
 
H

harrop.senator

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God damn a second bearing thrust. Come on GM it was bad enough that the 5 litre was on the rear.

The thrust bearing goes in the middle. How long will it take for them to remember
 

shane_3800

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Just for the record,
I was asking earlier on another sump removal thread about if and where there was a flanged bearing in there somewhere, because all the ebay ads seemed to have one in their bearing sets. Anyway I found this nugget in the manual:

View attachment 219184

and also the bolt tightening order /reverse order for undoing.

View attachment 219185
Ignoring the last column/bearing plate/main cap(?) coz this is a V6, and looking up underneath
the engine to match the image, I was able to get bolts 30, 26, 22 and 25, 21 off with a
deep ring spanner. 23 came off just with a socket wrench but 24 needed a socket, universal joint,
and extension bar, on account of the steering column and rack in the way. I gotta remove the air-con pump again to get at 29, sadly. I was worried I was going to have to remove the exhaust manifolds and the engine mounts to get at the middle two on each side, but the deep ring spanner did the job nice.

There is no way I am gunna get those torqued to spec at the other end, but if it ends up at the knackers yard I guess its the least of my worries.

The caps are meant to be torqued up on an engine stand not in the car.
 
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