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Warm up the beast first !

abuch47

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What about the other end how long does it take to cool down?
Often have to do short trips and just an hour ago got in after cruising to coolant temp before lunch. Then after lunch was still at water temp but wonder if the oil and intake were ok.

**** I had a whole tray of tools and 1/8th of a tank disappeared in 15kms to work, thought I may get stuck there. sitting on the empty line but took 4 litres less than max so wasnt too bad.

Other crazy thing was could definitely see the heat coming out the bonnet vents which is good to know it works. first time the sunlight has lined it up to be visible.
 

Murdoch

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What about the other end how long does it take to cool down?
Often have to do short trips and just an hour ago got in after cruising to coolant temp before lunch. Then after lunch was still at water temp but wonder if the oil and intake were ok.

**** I had a whole tray of tools and 1/8th of a tank disappeared in 15kms to work, thought I may get stuck there. sitting on the empty line but took 4 litres less than max so wasnt too bad.

Other crazy thing was could definitely see the heat coming out the bonnet vents which is good to know it works. first time the sunlight has lined it up to be visible.

Once the oil is up to temp, say 100 degrees and you stop, it will hang around that (-20%)for 30 mins then start dropping. BUT depends on how hot/cold it is ambient.
I just normally use it for first start up.
Adelaide hills is about 2 degrees in the morning this time of year. Takes a good 10-15 to get it up to 80 degrees. Summer time when its rocking 30+ degrees, it takes 5 minutes.

Its just taught me to realize that although coolant temp is at its operating range with 5 minutes, does not mean the engine oil is warm and ready for a flogging!
warm oil/cold coolant (would ever happen) = mash pedal
Cold oil/warm coolant = grandma pedal
 

abuch47

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^Something I've learned from this forum and reading about LS and mechanical symphony elsewhere that accounts for all cars
 

Daniel Souza

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Are those intake air temps normal for a n/a car?
Or is this a blown+intercooled LS3?
I've really only ever seen logs from my turbo (intercooled) car & didn't expect to see similar intake temps for an n/a car.
That’s stuck in traffic , pretty bad. The ecu would be taking a lot of timing off.

I think that’s the reason the air intake mod is very popular. The stock box take a long time to cool down after start moving.

On the freeway it is usually 10-15C above ambient temperature.
 

snortings

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one of the first things i noticed vs my VE.
Yep, I've driven both series 1 and 2 VE as well as my VF. The series 1 VE is very slow to move but when I got my Series 2 SV6 it moved pretty quickly. It's the same in the VF compared to the VE Series 2.
 

07GTS

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the newer the engines the sooner they have to heat up to meet emissions
 

Forg

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That’s stuck in traffic , pretty bad. The ecu would be taking a lot of timing off.

I think that’s the reason the air intake mod is very popular. The stock box take a long time to cool down after start moving.

On the freeway it is usually 10-15C above ambient temperature.
What’s in & around the stock intake system such that it heats up like that? I assume it’s all plastic, hence my surprise.

Yeah that heat-soak and traffic vs moving thing is even worse in a (home-designed so not exactly professional) turbo/intercooler setup. I don’t have an ambient temp sensor, but before making the above post I checked some of the logs for my 70’s Volvo, and the intake temp is getting up to 60 degrees stuck in traffic versus high teens while moving consistently at 80km/h+ (being in Sydney about the lowest the ambient temps can have been is maybe 15). And most of my intake piping is steel, whereas the Commodore is (I thought) lower-thermal-mass plastic.

Do the OTR intakes reduce temps by following a less circuitous route & for a shorter path so the air “touches” warm-stuff less? Or does it just go past fewer heated bits?
 

markalan1two

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Even with OTR or Cold air intakes low speeds with little to no airflow heat soak is always going to be a problem, OTR's have to deal with a radiator which as the name suggests radiates heat, and cold air intake still snake though past hot radiators and engines so soak plenty of it up.
 

Forg

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So lower OTR intake air temps are purely about ... what, higher flow &/or a more direct path meaning a lower percentage of the intake air mass ‘swirling’ against the heated walls of the intake?
 

Murdoch

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That’s stuck in traffic , pretty bad. The ecu would be taking a lot of timing off.

I think that’s the reason the air intake mod is very popular. The stock box take a long time to cool down after start moving.

On the freeway it is usually 10-15C above ambient temperature.

correct.
WOT timing with cold intake is way more advanced than WOT with hot temps, and you can feel the difference in power between the two 100%.
That's what my torque app is telling me anyway, far less KR too when cold.

10-15c above ambient?
That's with a standard airbox? I honestly thought it would be better than an OTR as far away from radiator and the IAT is near the filter box, not radiator like an OTR.
 
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