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Washed engine bay at car wash, won’t idle

MDK

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Having it idle for an hour, l would think that would have dried things out?

When refueling, did you put the correct fuel in? I'm guessing you did?
Hey mate, I seriously thought that an hour would be long enough to dry out, however I’ve heard of some people needing days to dry out, I’m seriously lost atm
 

losh1971

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Hey mate, I seriously thought that an hour would be long enough to dry out, however I’ve heard of some people needing days to dry out, I’m seriously lost atm
depends on how the sensors sit if they sit vertical then the water can pool and cause problems. I know on the old Buicks the oil pressure sensor fills with water and sometimes needs the plug taken off to help dry it out quicker.
 

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Water can be caught under the spark plug boots or in connectors. Can turn into vapour when hot but condense when cold which can again cause misfire or run issues. Removing wiping and reinserting leads and connectors can help to fully dry them out. What hard/pending fault codes are you getting?

Worst case is blowing water into air intake and sucking it into the engine but that would result in mechanical damage if it’s a large amount that got in. Compression test will highlight any mechanical issues but not sure how supercharger can be checked.

Do the simple things first (disconect wipe reconnect) and don’t discount alternator is doing odd things so also check charge rate and voltage. Also if you filled up prior to pressure cleaning don't discount bad fuel.

Pressure cleaning modern engines is a no no as you’ve learnt.

Good luck with it.
 
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MDK

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Water can be caught under the spark plug boots or in connectors. Can turn into vapour when hot but condense when cold which can again cause misfire or run issues. Removing wiping and reinserting leads and connectors can help to fully dry them out. What hard/pending fault codes are you getting?

Worst case is blowing water into air intake and sucking it into the engine but that would result in mechanical damage if it’s a large amount that got in. Compression test will highlight any mechanical issues but not sure how supercharger can be checked.

Do the simple things first (disconect wipe reconnect) and don’t discount alternator is doing odd things so also check charge rate and voltage. Also if you filled up prior to pressure cleaning don't discount bad fuel.

Pressure cleaning modern engines is a no no as you’ve learnt.

Good luck with it.
Hi
I was getting DCPT0123 Throttle??Position, P2101 Throttle Actuators??, and others. I’m did pressure wash in 2 modes full engine at car wash. Was so not thinking Saturday morning. I’m running a large Yella Terra 105mm throttle body if that helps
 

Skylarking

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As a first step I guess you’ve focused on disconnecting, cleaning and drying both ends of the plugs going to the throttle body.

May be the VF workshop manual may yield some clues as to what to do for those specific fault codes. This thread has a link to the workshop manual.
 

stooge

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acetone or such.

Acetone can react with some types of plastics and rubber so it would be better to use isoprophyl alcohol, it is the "go to" cleaner for electronics.
 

07GTS

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spray inside connectors with INOX or WD40 style spray and it should help
 

abuch47

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Acetone can react with some types of plastics and rubber so it would be better to use isoprophyl alcohol, it is the "go to" cleaner for electronics.
I honestly did not know there was a difference. Would contact cleaner work as well?
 

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Last time i bought a 500ml spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol it was a while ago and cost only $12 :eek: Still have 350mls left and it's great for cleaning my DVD/BD's which is what i use it on.

But for the car, a wipe with a cloth and a blast of compressed air (wearing safety glasses) is just as effective in cleaning wet connectors. And much cheaper than isopropyl alcohol :rolleyes:
 
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