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Water loss

Discussion in 'VT - VX Holden Commodore (1997 - 2002)' started by orthas, Feb 13, 2019.

  1. orthas

    orthas New Member

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    Hey all vx commy here

    I have searched on here but have yet to find someone with the same problem

    I seem to lose a little bit of water from somewhere. I have to top up and bleed the cooling about every 50-100kms with around a liter of water otherwise the temp rises (mainly while idling in traffic etc) I have recently replaced the heater tap, thermostat and radiator. Also when they replaced the radiator they flushed out the system but the problem still persists. I have tried looking for a leak while the engine is running but yet to find anything. I know these vx's have a lot of common problems. hopefully someone here knows what it could be.

    Thanks
    Jeff
     
  2. _R_J_K_

    _R_J_K_ Well-Known Member

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    Intake manifold gaskets. Suuuuper common on all the V6s.
     
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  3. gossie

    gossie Well-Known Member

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    Water? Or green coolant?
     
  4. orthas

    orthas New Member

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    When it was flushed it was filled with coolant but now to save money I replace it with water. Can't see what and where it's leaking from
     
  5. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    x2 if the manifold gaskets have never been replaced they will need to be. Given the description of the prob I'd say R_J_K is 100% on the money.
     
  6. gohrdrgomad

    gohrdrgomad Active Member

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    lt needs coolant within the system. Water isnt suitable and simply adding to what coolant is left however long ago it was added is diluting it further creating heat. It may be serging out the overflow, if it isnt functioning as per required you will always be topping up as you said in my opinion.
     
  7. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Since water transfers heat better than coolant, how can it make the engine run hotter? :confused:
     
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  8. gohrdrgomad

    gohrdrgomad Active Member

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    lt boils. Time for a cuppa loshy.
     
  9. _R_J_K_

    _R_J_K_ Well-Known Member

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    Like above, it's about different boiling points. Water/coolant boils = car overheats and blows its lid, one just happens faster than the other (some coolants boil at like 130deg). Not that there's much in it, but I'd wager coolant is a better conductor for heat (particularly where industrial non-water coolant is concerned), otherwise what's the point of putting an insulator in the thing you're trying to cool if it can't exchange thermal energy through a radiator properly?

    Also, depending on where you live coolant won't freeze anywhere near as easily as water (i.e. cold night). Then there's the corrosion inhibitors they usually incorporate too.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
  10. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    Given the above theory this suggests that the ultimate then would be straight coolant. Just because it raises the boiling point doesn't mean the engine runs cooler. I could put in enough glycol to raise the boiling point to 180deg but in doing so the engine would probably overheat.
     
  11. tml678

    tml678 Well-Known Member

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    Isn't that what the pressurised cap is designed to prevent..?
     
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  12. gohrdrgomad

    gohrdrgomad Active Member

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    lts suggested 50/50 mix for optimal benifit in a application of this discription. When water boils it vapourises. Glycol may expand/ build pressure but not certain. Some materials such as aluminium require different care compared to a cast block to prevent heat sink or the effects are significant. I did read glycol can etch or deteriorate materials at a „Äč100%. Im not 100% certain that glycol doesn't evaporate but does loose its% overtime so a test kit is available to check. If mixed the water will evaporate. Some cheap s_#@ possibly deteriorates prematurely compared to the goods.
     
  13. gohrdrgomad

    gohrdrgomad Active Member

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    its to release pressure and cannot possibly prevent boiling, it just assist with circulating heat that builds pressure as the temp rises. So if water boils earlier, the steam vapours occur earlier than coolant, requiring a earlier pressure release. Therefore coolant is superior. If it fails it can pop your radiater tanks for eg:. Thats my understanding.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2019
  14. Dayvo

    Dayvo Because i can

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    Try pulling out and checking the rubber overflow hose . The one in my old vx had swollen inside the bottle and wouldn't let the coolant flow back onto the radiator.
     
  15. JohnW

    JohnW New Member

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    First think to do is dump all that water out and refill with the recommended 50:50 mix green glycol/de-mineralised water. It really isn't all that expensive, buy the water from food stores, much cheaper than auto parts shops. Just tap water in the engine electrolysis will eat the aluminium engine to bits in no time.

    Now with your coolant a nice shiny green color leaks are much easier to find. The first place I'd look is jack up the front and slide under inspecting where the gearbox bolts to the engine. The rear seal is notorious for leaking. Just look for streams of green liquid around the bottom back of the engine. Ignore the clear water dripping from around the gearbox area, that's just condensation from the air conditioner (see the advantage of having your coolant a bright green).

    If it is leaking at the back of the engine, buy a pack of the 3 genuine Holden coolant tablets that are supposed to be used every time the coolant is changed. You can still buy them. People ridicule the things, but they work. They really are very effective at stopping leaks.
     
  16. immortality

    immortality Home of the smoky breakfast Bacon! Staff Member

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    Hmmmm, I think I completely debunked that myth in another thread. Do some research, it's all on the interwebs :)

    99% certain it will the LIM gaskets as mentioned above. Biggest problem with the V6 motors unfortunately.
     
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  17. VT&VX

    VT&VX Active Member

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    You can buy some coolant additive that stops leaks. Alloy engine, so get the aluminium version.

    I would suggest removing the thermostat while running this stuff in. The other area to check is the weep hole on the water pump. Drips or piddle?
     
  18. gohrdrgomad

    gohrdrgomad Active Member

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    l dont know what plannet your from but hear on earth if you add water to glycole you dilute what you add to. As water boils before a water/glycole mix depending on %rate as its a varialbe number, the engine heats to the point water boils and vaporises creating a overheating scenario at a earlier temperature. A 50/50 mix raises the boiling temp and l assume reduces vaporisation to the point it assist cooling off the materials in a superior manner. So a cracked cylinder head for eg can occur much ealier cooled with water than with a glycole assist, appart from any other benifits of a mixture.
    So what is your point!
     
  19. losh1971

    losh1971 Well-Known Member

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    The radiator cap is the main thing that helps to stop water boiling in an engine. Water under pressure or in a vacuum will boil at a higher rate than water under normal atmospheric pressure. Glycol helps raise the boiling point even further but not by a huge amount. The water coolant mix at 1060gm glycol at a 50/50 mix will still boil and at not a very high temp either. A 50/50 ratio will still boil in a car if just the thermo fan stops working in a V6 even with airflow.
     
  20. immortality

    immortality Home of the smoky breakfast Bacon! Staff Member

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    I covered all this in another thread. Do some research on boiling point/pressure....
     

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