Welding on the engine

[vs-lover]

Have you ever tried a Cobalt drill bit as that's what the guys like Dr. Bolt use to remove harder materials like broken taps and easy outs. Honestly I've never believed much in Easyouts, all they seem to do is easily get you in the **** deeper.

 

[shane_3800]

Have you ever tried a Cobalt drill bit as that's what the guys like Dr. Bolt use to remove harder materials like broken taps and easy outs. Honestly I've never believed much in Easyouts, all they seem to do is easily get you in the **** deeper.

They work in the right situation. Anything water related needs to be drilled out and helicoiled.
Cobalt wont drill out taps and easy outs you need a carbide drill or a CBN coated drill. Yes both those cost considerably more than cobalt. My cobalt set is $450 in carbide it would likely be $5000.

 

[woteva]

Where is Trevor ? He would know what to do.

I have welded on car bodies and chassis before with the battery disconnected, but never on a motor. I would disconnect everything possible.

Also weigh up the time and cost it might take if something does go versus the cost of removing the manifold and doing it on a bench.

A broken ezyout can be removed with a centre punch to turn it.

 

[shane_3800]

A broken ezyout can be removed with a centre punch to turn it.

If it's a helical style one not a straight flute.

 

[Tonner Matt]

Where is Trevor ? He would know what to do.

Yeah...….Google it

 

[Skylarking]

Interesting read here which explains why you should disconnect negative battery lead.

Doesn’t really explain induced voltage spikes or induced eddy currents in wires near the weld, though it does state to disconnect the airbag.

Reality is, why wouldn’t you disconnect the battery earth which such an easy prophylactic measure. It’s a heck of a lot easier to do than replace ECU’s and other electronic gizmos if they do fry.

 

[losh1971]

Yeah...….Google it

 

[losh1971]

Reality is, why wouldn’t you disconnect the battery earth which such an easy prophylactic measure. It’s a heck of a lot easier to do than replace ECU’s and other electronic gizmos if they do fry.

From what I understand is that removing the ground from the battery will achieve little as the all the modules are still connected to a ground. If this is right then the modules should be unplugged.

 

[ephect]

Thanks guys. It was a Kinchome extractor set like this that broke. https://www.kincrome.com.au/screw-extractor-set-5-pce-19157c

I've disconnected most sensors around, including abs and dfi. Battery is always disconnected when I work on cars.

I'll check out the carbide drills and hellicoils, it might be cheaper to get a second-hand manifold than screwing around.

 

[Skylarking]

From what I understand is that removing the ground from the battery will achieve little as the all the modules are still connected to a ground. If this is right then the modules should be unplugged.

He addresses that issue in his comments. The whole vehicle ground is floating with the welder so it’s impossible”e for currents to flow from ECU+ (connected to battery) to ground as there is no path for such a current (open circuit).

But induced voltage spikes via striking the weld wire/rod can occur on a wire going to the ECU which is near the weld area. That could cause issues though he states the electronics should be ok and just to disconnect the airbag. Me, I’d disconnect the ECU if it’s in an easily accessible location of near the weld area. But this is a seperate mechanism than what disconnecting the battery earth resolves.

Best approach is to remove the part for weld repair where ever possible or take as many precautions if not possible.