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Discussion in 'VR - VS Holden Commodore (1993 - 1997)' started by ephect, Nov 17, 2019.
One just flew over the Cuckoo's nest I'd say. LOL !
If the car was running whilst you are welding there may be a minor effect but that would stop once you turned off the welder. Any gains would be minimal and I'd prefer a good set of well designed heads every day of the week.
So that means a heap of people have to have their radio reset, because of it.....I wonder who incurs the cost of that, if the code is lost?
And yes I'm glad you don't live in my state....There's enough dodgy mechanics around as it is, without introducing more
That is a possibility, but you do have the pipe welded near the block on some cars
When you're an actual mechanic disconnecting the battery is a common occurrence and resetting codes is not a hard problem. You can't work on computers and air bags without disconnecting a battery for a tyre fitter this concept may be hard to grasp but it's part of daily life for me. If I was dodgy I wouldn't have made it where I am atm on wages getting salary money.
Only painful car is a small range of Hyundai's from 1998 to 2003 from memory that you have to remove the radio it's self but they're the only ones.
Here you go...Beating your chest, with a wage line......There are certain aspects of your comments which point to dodgyness....Wages have bugger all to do with being dodgy or not....
All I can say over welding near engines, in relation to exhausts.....I've seen it done a fair few times.....If it caused issues, I can't see the exhaust shop I deal with, still being in business after 13 years....
The company that I work for has been in business for 40 years and I know the guy that started it. We disconnect batteries and we have gas anylisers, shop scopes, aircon machines, injector test benches, and so on and we employ 3 auto electricians and the boss is one. No offense to exhaust guys but they know bugger all compared to our auto electricians. 3 of our sparkys are 50+ and the youngest is nearly in his 30's so I'll trust these guys over your mate thats been doing exhausts for 13 years.
Not a mate that's been doing exhausts for 13 years.....I have been dealing with him, for 13 years....I first met him at a place I worked, because he started getting into wheels, tyres and suspension upgrades...So I was doing his tyre work and wheel alignments....He also does engine upgrades, as part of his business.
You are entitled to trust who ever you like.....The business I have spoken about is D&T Performance. He started out of a small rented workshop and 4 or 5 years ago, bought a larger workshop, within a stones throw to the CBD. So he must be doing something right, when it comes to welding near engine blocks and not frying electronics
I went to D&T over 20 years ago when they were in the city only a street or 2 from South terrace. Had a big mandrel bent exhaust put on my VL turbo. They somehow lost my old cat and had the cheek to charge me an extra $180 for a 2nd hand cat as they said my old big bore hi flow cat was no good but could not show me why it was no good.
Had to go back twice as the new cat rattled after a few weeks and the rear hangar broke off as it had only been tacked on.
Always disconnect the battery or 9 times out of 10 you will fry the diodes in the alternator and wonder why you get a flat battery or it doesn't charge properly
I hate when you supply some part and the company loose it and want to replace it with something inferior
But anyone can stuff up (no excuse) though hopefully they learn to handle things better the next time they stuff up (and own the problem of their making).
The fact that D&T have been around for so long must mean most of their customers are reasonably satisfied.
And tack welds limit risk of electronics being fried so all good <= satire in case not obvious
There are plenty dodgy and good joints out there, it's just finding one you can trust. Seriously it takes fk all time to d/c the battery.
I've had a crack at some practice runs, turns out I don't have any plain metal nuts around, all hardened or other types that just won't melt to bond when welded. I ain't turning it up near alloy.
Anyone got a spare manifold round northern melb? I can't get to wreckers before the weekend.
Removing your battery is a myth, your ignition is off there for your safe to weld, like I said delcowizzid is onto it, diodes can stuff up that's why I recommend to remove the positive from Alternator only so you don't lose power to your car radio. Also run a ground right next to where you are welding from, I use a chain and hang it over the area or clamp it on so any charge will go straight to ground as your car has 4 rubber tyres.
Honestly, I wouldn't get any work done to my car by them myself, as I have seen some pretty average work done, for the cash they ask....However in saying that, to be in business for at least 13 years, they must be doing something right.
Oh and I dealt with them, when they were in Salisbury....They have now moved to Prospect
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