WH Statesman 3.8Ltr 6 cyl with a Dangerous issue

[VFSV6FORME]

maybe a loose or bad connector.

Right!!!!!
After reading the internet with this issue for up and down revs at idle and after reading this and other sites https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/lean-codes-january-2018/ I have become desperate looking for possible bad connection so I found the ECU/PCM and any socket that can be uncliped and I uncliped it. Started the car NO GOOD It still was idling at 1100, 1200,1400, fu..kkkk. I restate the car again (1200 RPM)and this time rattled the 3 connectors behind the the power booster and the car was the same then I rattled the IAC wiring and it was the same and the last thing i touched was the TPS wiring harness and the Revs went from 1200 to 1400 to 1000 to 900 to 1400 so after seeing this I stopped the engine and took the connector off as the TPS is new and should have no corrosion (Male Pin) in it but looked into the socket (Female connectors) they look (3 of them) like to be spread out so I got my contact cleaner and small surgical screw driver set and pried in the 4 side on the three female connectors gave them the contact cleaner and re connected the connector and I noticed it has slightly harder to get in.
Now I disconnected the battery and left it off for 30 seconds, re connected the battery and started the car and the Idle was around 1000 RPM than after 3 seconds it went to around 950 RPM.
I took the car for a drive for 35 minutes and I hammer the car with stops and starts noted the idle and putting the car in neutral when stopped then when I can put it park and it Idles Perfect!!! I tried to trick it but still Idles at 950 RPM so after this test I went home and let the car rest. 4 hours later at night I did the same and took the car for 15 min drive and it was perfect. Now that was yesterday
Today I did the same I started the car first thing this Morning (8 am) and the car started at 1200 RPM than second later it was 1050 RPM, minutes later it was 950 RPM and I went for another 15 Minute drive and done the same test by stopping the car, putting in neutral, also in park and noted the idle also I noted the rev whilst the car was in drive PERFECT!!! . Drove the car home and it perfect and I hope it stays this way.

If this was the issue with a bad connecting connector on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) no doubt the extra revs was being done by the IAC Valve allowing more air via a fake voltage on the TPS.
I will re test this car for the next 3 to 4 days before I give it back to my Son.

 

[VFSV6FORME]

Now I will be able to go back to the cheap Ve and fit all the NEW Chrome door Moulds. Ive had them for over a week but Bathurst Races and My Son headache car push this decorative job away.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

Right!!!!!
After reading the internet with this issue for up and down revs at idle and after reading this and other sites https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/lean-codes-january-2018/ I have become desperate looking for possible bad connection so I found the ECU/PCM and any socket that can be uncliped and I uncliped it. Started the car NO GOOD It still was idling at 1100, 1200,1400, fu..kkkk. I restate the car again (1200 RPM)and this time rattled the 3 connectors behind the the power booster and the car was the same then I rattled the IAC wiring and it was the same and the last thing i touched was the TPS wiring harness and the Revs went from 1200 to 1400 to 1000 to 900 to 1400 so after seeing this I stopped the engine and took the connector off as the TPS is new and should have no corrosion (Male Pin) in it but looked into the socket (Female connectors) they look (3 of them) like to be spread out so I got my contact cleaner and small surgical screw driver set and pried in the 4 side on the three female connectors gave them the contact cleaner and re connected the connector and I noticed it has slightly harder to get in.
Now I disconnected the battery and left it off for 30 seconds, re connected the battery and started the car and the Idle was around 1000 RPM than after 3 seconds it went to around 950 RPM.
I took the car for a drive for 35 minutes and I hammer the car with stops and starts noted the idle and putting the car in neutral when stopped then when I can put it park and it Idles Perfect!!! I tried to trick it but still Idles at 950 RPM so after this test I went home and let the car rest. 4 hours later at night I did the same and took the car for 15 min drive and it was perfect. Now that was yesterday
Today I did the same I started the car first thing this Morning (8 am) and the car started at 1200 RPM than second later it was 1050 RPM, minutes later it was 950 RPM and I went for another 15 Minute drive and done the same test by stopping the car, putting in neutral, also in park and noted the idle also I noted the rev whilst the car was in drive PERFECT!!! . Drove the car home and it perfect and I hope it stays this way.

If this was the issue with a bad connecting connector on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) no doubt the extra revs was being done by the IAC Valve allowing more air via a fake voltage on the TPS.
I will re test this car for the next 3 to 4 days before I give it back to my Son.

Good news, they don't use much currant so that's why I said the connectors only takes a bad contact or some dirt to reduce the currant.

 

[lout]

nice find, you should feel proud
and even better for posting back with the solution
to help the next poor soul

 

[VFSV6FORME]

Yes drove the car yesterday late arvo and all is perfect!! I drove it this morning and its the same. GOOD I hope it stays this way. I cant believe it one simple bad connection causes this DANGEROUS headache.
Now I have my suspicion that the 3 PINS on the Aftermarket not Genuine TPS were slightly less in Diameter and if this is the case there is the problem.
Its either pointy to look at or Smaller in diameter. NO I not going to touch it also I threw the Original Factor one away but when it comes to matter like this keep a eye on the lenght and the diameter of the pins. Compare the factory to a aftermarket one

 

[VFSV6FORME]

nice find, you should feel proud
and even better for posting back with the solution
to help the next poor soul

This problem was going on for over two months but the fist 6 weeks it shown it ugly head rarely but the last week it was doing it 50% of the time you start the car or did it after you drive the car for a K or so but normally in the first few minutes of driving and you would feel the car wants to go on at the traffic lights or stop sign and when you put it in Neutral the revs went up what ever the car feels like

 

[VFSV6FORME]

The bloody thing play up twice this morning for the First time after I fixed it. I did not drive the car yesterday at all (Friday) but today Saturday it played up after 5 min of driving as when I stopped the car the revs were 1000 RPM (should be 850-900) and put it in neutral and went to 1150 and I turned the engine off twice and on again then after the third start it was normal. Gruuuuuuugh!!!

 

[greenacc]

Did you jiggle the TPS plug when it was revving up? Make any difference?
It's good investment to use genuine sensors like the TPS. It helps avoid annoying issues like this.

 

[Trevor loves holden.]

The bloody thing play up twice this morning for the First time after I fixed it. I did not drive the car yesterday at all (Friday) but today Saturday it played up after 5 min of driving as when I stopped the car the revs were 1000 RPM (should be 850-900) and put it in neutral and went to 1150 and I turned the engine off twice and on again then after the third start it was normal. Gruuuuuuugh!!!

Was it still cold?

 

[VFSV6FORME]

Was it still cold?

Yes! and the day before the Car was resting for 24 hrs.

Tomorrow I will do like what I did to the TPS (closing the female sockets a little) to the IAC (idle control Valve) and the MAF and other Plus I will used Permatex Dielectric Grease that was recommended to me to use with this issue.