New coolant temp sender after the first replacement from Repco last week. New Tridon one for half the price and it didn't break in the thermostat housing
VP-S B&M 14,400 BTU Trans super cooler installed Saturday evening, plus a Magnafine inline partical filter on the Trans return line.. This is some standard stuff for a cool running trans/long lasting trans - so plan it all out on paper for starters (hoses suit my application, check yours to make certain of connections & diameter etc. I have done it this way for now which does the job very nicely as I'm awaiting a brand new custom performance engine build in progress which I will install in a few weeks. When I put in the new engine I will then install the brand new 3 core full alloy radiator that is on the workbench, using the proper barbed fittings & screw on connections for the supercooler. The following steps are a guide only, so just adapt it to suit you own needs & use your common sense, none of this came from any "how to's" BTW ;> 1) Go to Supercheap & pick up 8 x 12-16mm tridon clamps, 262 locktite (red) plus 2 x mtrs of 3/8 & 5/16 Trans hose each. Then to bunnings for the right brackets, bends, high tension bolts/nuts for the job, plus a can of matt black to colour the brackets 2) Start with the most difficult being mounting the base brackets to the existing holes in chassis directly under the A/C condenser 3) Drill holes in the headlight brackets after measuring the fit to hold your top custom matt black bunnings brackets created earlier 4) Mount the B&M cooler to check clearances plus ensure that when you make it permanent, it will work (do not tighten bolts yet) 5) Install 90 degree twist bent top brackets, then install the B&M Supercooler to suit the base & top brackets created earlier 6) Run new 3/8 trans hose from base trans feed to base of radiator, then run 5/16 trans hose from top of radiator across fan shroud 7) Drill 3 holes at the very end of the fan shoud, & use tridon zipties to secure the new 5/16 in the 3 areas as pictured 8) Attach the inline Magnaflow magnetic fine partical filter close to where the charcoal canistor is located as shown in the album 9) Run the 5/16 trans hose though to the inlet of the B&M supercooler, secure all these connections with genuine tridon hose clamps 10) Connect the 3/8 hose to the outlet of the B&M supercooler, then run it to the return line of the trans, (top metal pipe from around the engine sump area) 11) Check all connections thoroughly & then leave it if you can & let it set over night in order for the locktite to fully set (don't have to do this, but it is a good idea) 12) Next day, recheck all your work - please make sure you are confident with the entire completed job, then boot it up for 10mins to lets trans fluid circulate through the new cooler 13) Add more DexIII to suit & or some Nulon Trans Fluid Treatment (both if need be) Check Trans dipstick which will show a drop due to the extra volume created 14) Road test your work casually at first, then out on the freeway for accasional WOT at entries to make sure everything is all good with the new set up 15) When parked back home recheck the Trans fluid level after letting it cool down, & top up with some Nulon Trans treatment & or DexIII if required
fitted a VY HSV LSD diff to my VX Berlina wagon. Very pleased. We gave it a birthday before we fitted it changing the oil and adding the additive after cleaning it out completely in the parts bath.
I'd strongly recommend replacing the hose clamps with injection clamps and doubling up on the cooler itself, you can tighten safely with a socket as the hose has a lot of compression in it (as pictured). When I did mine I also grabbed a flare kit from SC and double flared the hard lines from the tranny, then put a clamp against each flare. Reason for the above being last time I did this after a short amount of time the hose to hard line began to trickle ever so slightly, suprising pessure generated in the lines. Last thing you want out on the road is a blow off! I also carry 1L DX3, .5m hose and 4 spare clamps for an emergency bypass. Curious to know why you ran the line over vs. under? (through the chassis with the AC hosing) Looks like it'll do the trick though.
Yep will do mate, re: proper connections - this is just a temporary set up for now, as I'm awaiting a new performance engine & will install the new alloy radiator when I do that. Good to point it out for other readers though, especially the bypass if need be, keeping spare clamps, length of appropriate hose, & some DexIII ftw. With the plumbing I ran it this way as it looks much neater, plus more practical as there is too much going on round passenger side area with A/C, 3 extra cai inlet hoses to compliment the s/c otr cai, plus cruise control box etc, so would have been too tight having the inline filter on that side as well.
you somehow make the pala into a carriage with the 2 chassis rails connected to a horse like a horse and cart? - drove the ute, still done nothing else to it.
Fitted some calais height adjustable seat belts to my VP wagon. For some reason they don't want to adjust when they are done up tight :/
Replaced the split rubber power steering hose (reservoir to pump) in my daughter's VX. Easy 5 minute job, thank God.
fitted up the wiper motor 'hideaway' panel.... dont like it. check my thread please and offer advice.
Moved it away from the carpark at work, cos the house attached to the front of the factory was on fire
Was disgusted by it due to it's filthy appearance. Plenty of work to do on Saturday to get it ready for C4C on Sunday.
attempt #3 to weld the firewall with a nice seam. only had 1000000 explosions this time. at least the shrinks are in the same spot as last time. gave up and added to the CBF pile. FYI if you have a 40 year old car and you want to weld a seam: dont.
This is a long weekend in NZ , so I've got today off as well , so I might give them both an oil change .
