what did you do to your car today?

[vc commodore]

I must have walked under a ladder, or had a black cat walk in front of me because I had a couple of things go to crap for me today.

Started out, I went out in the VY and got a flat.....No biggie, except I got a piece of rectangular steel, about 2 foot long that went straight through the tread and trucked the tyre.....

Then I decided to try fix the oil leak coming from my VC....I noticed the front rubber seal, inbetween the timing case cover and sump was poking out, causing the leak....

So I got underneath, loosened off a few sump bolts and was able to poke it back in situ....when I went to put it back together, I broke a timing case cover to sump bolt, stripped another and ended up breaking the sump gasket....

So I definately have to take the motor out the VC and replace the sump gasket....Fortunately I do have another timing case cover, so I save a few bucks there....But the VC can sit for another week or 2 until I cool down enough from the crap it has given me the last 2 times I have gone to fix the oil leak

 

[Fu Manchu]

Today I opened the bonnet after smelling coolant to find with no surprise that the water pump has failed after two (maybe 3 years). Well done SuperCheap water pump.

Previous pump went two or three years. I’d expect 10 years a better life of a water pump.

 

[Fu Manchu]

Also, enjoying as always, the sound of Wanneroo raceway on a race day. Sounds sick!!!
So hearing people do things to their cars.
V8 Supercars night. Yeah. Sounds so good.

Dog doesn’t think so.

 

[losh1971]

Today I opened the bonnet after smelling coolant to find with no surprise that the water pump has failed after two (maybe 3 years). Well done SuperCheap water pump.

Previous pump went two or three years. I’d expect 10 years a better life of a water pump.

I'd be contacting the ACCC about that pump and reporting SCA. That pump was obviously not fit for purpose.

 

[Fu Manchu]

4th Jan 2020
https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/vz-ve-vf-alloytec-cooling-system-repairs.279976/

 

[Drawnnite]

You thinking the things that actually get the switch into position to turn the lights off and on and off are worn?

Gearbox has 482k kms on it.
Doubtful it's ever been opened up (have had it since 197k kms and other than fluids and now seals it's never been touched)
So potentially yes, I would assume worn out.

 

[Ginger Beer]

Finally got the car back

Results

Everything fits under the bonnet

A little more NVH from the Tuff Mounts, but nothing that annoys me, and it is really only noticeable at idle

New Walbro intank pump only, but the tank, lines, injectors and wiring harness was all cleaned and/or replaced

Driving home, with the cabin aircon on, the IAT was at 40°c, before, on a hwy run, it sat on 50°c, typical traffic temps were 50-55°c

When I got stuck in slow traffic for about 5 km the IAT was still at 40°c, before that it would have been at 70°c stuck in traffic

After shutting down the car for about 1/2 hour the IAT was at 65°c on start up, it took less than 5 minutes to bring it back down to 40°c

I'm curious about how it will go when I press the blue switch, which isolates the cabin aircon and sends to the chiller only

Dyno thingie because internets

I've also got some Toyo R888R 275/40 17 to fit up, because the 255/40 17 RS4 fail miserably when giving it some beens, both from the dig as well as rolling on from 60kph

Will hit WSID soon, Spiro from Autotech said it just needs drag radials for a high 10, he laughed when I said I was putting on 275 R888R's to replace the RS4's, he said they won't hold and I need "real" drag radials in 275/40 17

Meh, tax time is coming up, and that is like free money

 

[07GTS]

Finally got the car back

Results

Everything fits under the bonnet

A little more NVH from the Tuff Mounts, but nothing that annoys me, and it is really only noticeable at idle

New Walbro intank pump only, but the tank, lines, injectors and wiring harness was all cleaned and/or replaced

Driving home, with the cabin aircon on, the IAT was at 40°c, before, on a hwy run, it sat on 50°c, typical traffic temps were 50-55°c

When I got stuck in slow traffic for about 5 km the IAT was still at 40°c, before that it would have been at 70°c stuck in traffic

After shutting down the car for about 1/2 hour the IAT was at 65°c on start up, it took less than 5 minutes to bring it back down to 40°c

I'm curious about how it will go when I press the blue switch, which isolates the cabin aircon and sends to the chiller only

Dyno thingie because internets

I've also got some Toyo R888R 275/40 17 to fit up, because the 255/40 17 RS4 fail miserably when giving it some beens, both from the dig as well as rolling on from 60kph

Will hit WSID soon, Spiro from Autotech said it just needs drag radials for a high 10, he laughed when I said I was putting on 275 R888R's to replace the RS4's, he said they won't hold and I need "real" drag radials in 275/40 17

Meh, tax time is coming up, and that is like free money

i was thinking bout trying the R888 or nitto NT05 have to see how they go on yours

 

[Ginger Beer]

i was thinking bout trying the R888 or nitto NT05 have to see how they go on yours

I got them as a compromised all rounder

R888R TW is 100
RS4 TW is 200
R88R are better in the dry than RS4
R888R are better in the wet than a drag radial
Real drag radials are better than R888R for hooking in the dry

I'm to old and lazy to bother with swapping out rims for dry and wet weather, if it is raining I drive the car, I hate riding my Harley in the rain

I'm hoping that the R888R hook good enough for an 11 and 12? mph, and importantly are acceptable for putting along in the rain at the speed limit, I've run M/T drag radials before, and they are pretty poor in wet and/or cold conditions

The sidewalls on the R888R are pretty stiff, good for the street and corners, not so good for grip from the dig, changes in tyre pressure with stiff sidewalls don't give the results that they do with a soft sidewall either for grip

And I'm not sure if doing alot of road trips will heat cycle them out

I'll start with 30 psi for the street and see how the tyre temps are, I only have a OR gauge, so the readings will not be as accurate as a probe, but at least it should give me an idea to test and adjust from there

I'll strart at the street psi for the drags as well, just dropping a few psi each run until the 60ft goes to bad

In the end Mickey Thompson and M&H both do a 275/40 17 drag radial, from reviews "I've read" the M&H are better in the wet than the M/T, and are slightly cheaper

Hopefully, if I can get all the planets to align, I can get to WSID next week

 

[hademall]

it would just be a bit of a wank.

Don’t you hate that! Unfinished business.