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What did you do to your VR/VS today?

MrVR263

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The other faulty TPS normally resulted in limp mode. One Delphi TPS that played up within a few weeks, worked mostly but give it a bootful and it would throw a light and not shift up. Then shut it down and it was ok until the next test at WOT. It was also not kicking down up hills. TBH I have hashed over this many times and I might even have a thread about it. I'm just going to wait until the harness is repaired and the new TPS is on and go from there.
I've been stung a few times now with all types of Delphi sensors and I am trying to avoid them, as Delphi is no longer any good.
This might not help but if you have one floating around try it. Look at changing the vehicle speed sensor. They do have problems time to time. Speedo works fine and everything but the output from the sensor to the ecu not only gives the speedo a signal but the trans control side of the pcm looks at the vss so it knows how fast you are moving so it knows which gear it can shift in. If the signal becomes erratic the trans says I don't know what speed I'm doing so I'll just go into default and only give you 3 gears and won't kick down. I think the reference voltage wire is paired with tps I think don't hold me to it tho. It may not be the problem but I chased that trans problem and throw no codes but some how I changed the vss and no problem after that but my problem was a hot day and very rear but if you want to look into it just search the web and see if it helps. Hope you sort it. Car is looking good btw.
 

MrVR263

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@losh1971 when I get around to getting my Ute on club plates I'll have a chance to get it on a dyno and tell you how much power a 6k when the original owner had it built 4.3ltr Buick v6 stroker engine makes at the wheels when tuned and might give you some hope in tune potential with all your mods or it may crush them cos of the lack of power I don't know I'm curious to see myself and I paid tuff all for the Ute but with the list of stuff done to it it was hard not to past it up.
 

losh1971

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I'd be interested to know RWKW and torque. My last run was around 122kw at the wheels. I think with the new heads I could add 16 - 18kw on top of that, maybe more. It certainly pulls harder than it did before.
I'm just undecided whether I chance it and pull the manifold off myself and plonk in some Delphi US lifters and hope the slight rattle when hot and the cold lifter tic goes away. I have a spare engine I can have built but the cost of fitment and engine building makes it hard to justify. I'd just love to know what is causing the annoying noises on my engine and then I'd know a bit more about what I should do. As it is if my engine noises are merely lifters and not a spun cam bearing, I'd fix it myself and figure out a way to get some boost. But if this old engine has major problems then I'm best to pull the heads and use it as a boat anchor, and sell the 1.9s and fit a stage 2 cam on another engine that I can have built. But again big money when you don't do much yourself.
 

MrVR263

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I'd be interested to know RWKW and torque. My last run was around 122kw at the wheels. I think with the new heads I could add 16 - 18kw on top of that, maybe more. It certainly pulls harder than it did before.
I'm just undecided whether I chance it and pull the manifold off myself and plonk in some Delphi US lifters and hope the slight rattle when hot and the cold lifter tic goes away. I have a spare engine I can have built but the cost of fitment and engine building makes it hard to justify. I'd just love to know what is causing the annoying noises on my engine and then I'd know a bit more about what I should do. As it is if my engine noises are merely lifters and not a spun cam bearing, I'd fix it myself and figure out a way to get some boost. But if this old engine has major problems then I'm best to pull the heads and use it as a boat anchor, and sell the 1.9s and fit a stage 2 cam on another engine that I can have built. But again big money when you don't do much yourself.
When I get around to getting the recognition for then it won't be long before I can tell you. I don't even know what it made when the original owner had it lightly tuned for running in supposed and then final tune. But what I can say is the person that did the tune did not do what you would think you pay 1700 for the tuning in total and get a very poor and disappointing result just by looking at the numbers and riding in it way before I brought it. It's hard to find good and passionate mechanics that treat it like it's there own and will be knowledgeable and tell you what is actually going on and won't let the car leave their shop if there is a slight noise or your not happy with something. Sounds like you have to do the best with what repairer you choose.
 

losh1971

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If you're stroker has cam and heads I'd say you will be close to 190kw maybe more since it's a manual.
 

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vz sedan vs ute gsx1400
just a annual inspection (rego check) passed with flying colours :)
 

MrVR263

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If you're stroker has cam and heads I'd say you will be close to 190kw maybe more since it's a manual.
On the invoice for the engine when I brought the was stage 2 4.3ltr stroker assembly reground came shaft head porting no specific info on specs and the shop that did it aren't open anymore. I pulled the manual out and sold it off as a conversion minus loom and computer. So it's just a Manulised 4l60e shop box standard converter standard 3.08 different gears I'm pretty sure. Has extractors full 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust with cat 1 muffler and 1 resonator. 70mm tb and had a pod filter. So will see if the that much out lay for a stroker engine and what do you end up with over stock. Time will tell.
 

MrVR263

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I just looked at mine today and thought it needs a wash but I can't be bothered to much other important stuff I have to do. It can sit outside for another 2 or 3 months till I can be bothered washing it and putting it back in the garage.
 

losh1971

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I replaced mine due to wear and keep the old ones in the boot. No rrom in the shed with the other broken **** I dont throw out.
Where can you buy new ones for a VR? I would have thought the only option would be second hand.
 
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