What im thinking of doing

[davidjanssen]

Gday guys,
Im not asking you guys what the best sound is or anything like that, because thats stupid... I have made this post because I have some ideas and would like to know if it will work out okay and things I will also need to purchase to make sure its at its fullest potential.

What I have bought so far:
Pioneer FH-P6050UB Double Din (should hopefully be here by Friday)

What Im looking at getting:
Aeropro VT Wiring Plug to for Head Unit

Clarion DP12XBA 2 x 12" Subwoofers
Ryda Car Audio - Clarion Car Audio DP12XBA 2 x 12" Subwoofers in Box with Amplifier($429.95)
Which includes amp to power subs

Clarion APX4360 4 Channel Amp
Ryda Car Audio - Clarion Car Audio APX4360 4 Channel Amplifier($349.95)
Which will run the Head Unit & Speakers

Pair of 6'' splits and tweeters for the front ($250 - $350)
I will need to go to a store to listen to them so will head to a audio specialist in Melbourne

Pair of 6'' for the rear ($100 - $200)


So what else would I need?

Def some quality cable, amp wiring kit, good quality battery. Would I need a capacitor as well to be on the safe side?

Cheers guys

 

[StoneX]

Sounds like you've listed everything you need.

A battery is not essential, unless you plan to run the stereo with the car off and will possibly flatten the battery. Deep cycle batteries can be flattened to the point of the stereo turning off and then recharged without damaging the battery. This will damage normal lead-acid batteries.

A capacitor is not needed at all.

 

[acarmody]

Thanks a really cool looking deck!! But whats up with the Clarion gear. I've been looking for the specs on those subs and I can't find a RMS power anywhere, so I think they are going to be a bit dodge. But I don't suppose that really matters as that amp only puts out 400wrms.

How about staying with some Pioneer gear. This amp and sub will cost pretty much the same and I can personally vouche for the sub.

Pioneer TS-W307D4 12"
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio Q307D4BOX Subwoofer($226.85)

Pioneer GM-D7400M Mono Car Amplifier
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio GM-D7400M Car Amplifier($213.95)

If you go to a store you can probably get them cheaper, buy Ryda are a good base figure to use. Actually if you are near a WOW Sight and Sound then they are selling the TS-W307D2s for $89, then just buy a couple of pre-fab boxes. And if you do that thn you will save some money on the subs and can get this amp instead:

Pioneer GM-D8400M Mono Car Amplifier
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio GM-D8400M Car Amplifier($286.95)

As for the speakers, why are you buying rear door speakers? Do you normally have people in the back seat? I you are normally there are only people in the front seats then you would bemuch better off spending the extra money on the front splits and getting some really kick-arse speakers. I'm not fully sure on front splits quality but either of these would be great:

Boston SL60 6" Component Speakers
Ryda Car Audio - Boston SL60 6" Component Speakers($435.65)

Kicker RS65.2 6.5" RS Component Speakers
Ryda Car Audio - Kicker RS65.2 6.5" RS Component Speakers($446.95)

But maybe someone else whos really in the know about quality splits can give a better idea.

And then you will need a quality 2-channel amp to power these. If you would like to stay with Pioneer then this amp is cheap and puts out:

Pioneer GM-5300T Car Amplifier 2 Channel
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio GM-5300T Car Amplifier($182.95)

But there are many quality 2-channel amps that would be about the same price and power, so shop around for these.

And lastly to wire all of this up a decent multi-amp wiring kit will have everything you need to hook all this up. Try the Stinger 4 gauge multi-amp kit, will be excellant. Oh and you stock battery will be fine as long as its in good nick. And don't even get the guys started on capacitors, long answer short DON'T BUY ONE! A decent battery is all you need.

 

[davidjanssen]

i sometimes go camping and that and we use everyones car radio.. Like play a few songs then turn the car over a bit. So would prob be best gettin a battery then?

So I wont need a capacitor? but if i notice the lights pulsing will i need one?

Cheers guys

 

[acarmody]

You still won't need a capacitor. I'm running more power than that as are a lot of people and we don't notice any light dimming. I sometimes notice a tiny, miniscule, micron sized, lol, flicker if I put on a bass test tune track and hit a massive bass note, but for normal music, not a chance.

If you are worried about a battery then try a Optima yellow-top. They cost roughly $400-$450 but they will be all the battery you will ever need times 2. Would be great on camping trips because even if you leave the stereo on for too long the Optima will still have a lot of juice left to start the car. But just as a precaution if you intend to be letting the subs rip then turn the car on before doing it, just to be sure.

 

[davidjanssen]

haha cheers mate,

I dont have much knowledge with sound system, cheers for the help. Now all I gota do is blow my money on it now haha

 

[StoneX]

I have massive light dimming, but I don't care With how bad mine is a capacitor would only help a little bit... I really need a higher output alternator.

If you end up having dimming lights and it bothers you, then you might as well get a capacitor and see if it fixes it for you.

 

[davidjanssen]

okay just an update,

I will prob be putting the following speakers in
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio TS-D1720C Car Speakers($325.25)
these will be for the fronts

and these for the rears
Ryda Car Audio - Pioneer Car Audio TS-A2003i Car Speakers($166.95)
not spending to much on rears,

So hopefully once all in I will be able to blow my ear drums... yay!

 

[acarmody]

That's not light dimming thats your ultra cool strobe lighting. Really, how much power you running?

 

[StoneX]

I previously had (major dimming);
- 2 x 260Wrms @ 3 ohm - Class A/B amp running 3 ohm splits
- 1 x 2400Wrms @ 2 ohm - Class D amp running two 4 ohm subs in parallel
TOTAL - 2,920Wrms

Now I have (still fairly bad dimming);
- 2 x 260Wrms @ 3 ohm - Class A/B amp running 3 ohm splits
- 1 x 1000Wrms @ 2 ohm - Class A/B amp running two 4 ohm subs in parallel
TOTAL - 1,520Wrms

Soon to have;
- 2 x 600Wrms @ 3 ohm - Class A/B amp running 3 ohm splits
- 2 x 260Wrms @ 3 ohm - Class A/B amp running 3 ohm splits
- 1 x 1,800Wrms @ 1.33 ohm - Class A/B amp running three 4 ohm subs in parallel
TOTAL - 3,520Wrms

Will definitely need a new alternator

Sorry for the off topic post.

I wouldn't get the 20cm speakers for rears... Stick to 16-17cm.