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What parts can i carry over from a VE to a VF? (exhaust, suspension etc)

Jimbotech

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My L98 VE has currently done 200,000kms and im up for a transmission rebuild (at around $4000)

If I do go ahead and do the rebuild I hope to get another 100,000kms out of the car or more, what I would like to know is if i can carry over any parts from the VE to a VF so that when the car does die I can transfer over all my goodies.

Can anyone advise if the headers / exhaust system would swap over to a VF and if coil overs / rims would also be possible?
 

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My L98 VE has currently done 200,000kms and im up for a transmission rebuild (at around $4000)

If I do go ahead and do the rebuild I hope to get another 100,000kms out of the car or more, what I would like to know is if i can carry over any parts from the VE to a VF so that when the car does die I can transfer over all my goodies.
Can anyone advise if the headers / exhaust system would swap over to a VF and if coil overs / rims would also be possible?
Obviously basically the same, main tangible difference being the steering - electric motor and alloy knuckle. Exhaust mounts are similar some minor alteration when hooking up.
The difference in power steer setup may affect clearance if you have aftermarket headers, unlikely though.
Front struts are slightly different - the upright on the VF hub is wider, so it wont fit between the two tabs on a VE strut... and vice versa, VE hub upright is narrower than the VF.
Also there were changes with all SS-V rims to cover brakes, and the VF Redline has staggered rims and different spec rear shocks or sway?
 

Jimbotech

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Thanks for the info,

Re: clearances I have a bit of a Frankenstein exhaust set up at the moment, OTR VE hsv headers, VF GTS midsection and an aftermarket set of mufflers.

I sounds good and is at a volume level that I like so I would probably just swap it over to a newer VE or VF and then just get a tune and be done with it.

The main thing now is if i spend money on new parts, wheels, suspension etc I want to make sure i can salvage them as considering the age of the car its probably not worth doing anything if at all. Plus i'm still deciding what to do with the transmission.

Transmission is series 1 6 speed (auto)
Symptoms of the issue is that there is a significant flare between 3rd and 4th, when accelerating from rolling (at around 10-20kph) the revs will build up freely and then jump into gear causing wheel spin / traction control. If you feather the gas you can prevent it but its still spooling up the revs constantly.

Other issue is in manual mode when changing down from 4th to 3rd there is a delay when engaging gear so it jerks abit, i can overcome this by blipping the throttle but its probably not good to do long term.

I got a transmission service done (at 200,000kms) and was advised the fluid smelt burnt, car ran well for a day or two but then the same transmission symptoms returned, I had another cleaning run done and reset and it was fine again for a few days but then same problems.

All of the transmission places I have spoken to have advised they could do the Tekum solenoids for about $1000 but this might not work so all advise to do a whole rebuild.

Best option at the moment is Craigs autos for around $4000, I got a quote from RVO in Melbourne for $2,800 but I have heard some dodgy stories so im abit weary of them.

Other option is to just live with it and use manual mode all the time but apparently the transmission will **** itself one day.

Cars probably worth $10,000 on a good day, really wondering if its worth spending over a 1/3 of the value in getting this fixed. Theres no other problems with the car though but maby considering the age and kms other stuff will start to go wrong, pumps etc.

Im waiting to see what this years tax return looks like then will decide what im going to do.
 

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Yeah will depend on your own circumstance, and if you can weather living with a great car with a high ODO.
I'm at 340k km second overhaul first respray BTW, as I committed to love and cherish her when I idled her over the showroom alter :rolleyes:
 

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Car has been tuned, initially the traction settings had been switched off which was fun for awhile but i figured it would be rooting the gearbox so had it all reset (about a month later)

Right now gearbox is running on standard settings, i have been advised i can force the settings so it runs good (how it does for the first 2 days) but this might be causing unknown damage and was not recommended.
 

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I don't recall seeing this mentioned before.
Has been off the road for a while now and, like OP, a perfect storm has brewed in the second hand market for VE SS killing its true value. Because I'm doubling down by overhauling the driveline and stuff (shooting for 500k km), certain people pointed out that my Pearl doesn't POP like new no more.
So getting dynts pulled and paint prepped, respray batch made for baking. Toyed with the idea of tarting it up like a VF boy racer with help from the parts bin but nah, apart from better bulbs gonna stick close to OE / old dude sleeper.
 

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Car has been tuned, initially the traction settings had been switched off which was fun for awhile but i figured it would be rooting the gearbox so had it all reset (about a month later)

Right now gearbox is running on standard settings, i have been advised i can force the settings so it runs good (how it does for the first 2 days) but this might be causing unknown damage and was not recommended.
Get the most recent stock TCM firmware for your OS, same with the ECU - put it back to stock for evaluation. I have had this and many other trans dramas over the years, is likely poor calibration / communication of torque. Stock diff gears?
Is cheaper to do this evaluation an relearn the adapts with stock tune than stump for new trans. Any decent tuner with EFIlive after 2011 or the latest HPT will do that as an preliminary step and tweak the tune from there. $500ish.
 
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