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What Safe (ish) wheel HP for a built 4L60e

07GTS

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Enough power in a street car is when your gearboxes are "not" consumable items

I've run a few big power cars in my youth, replacing engines and drivetrain components becomes tiresome, now that I'm older and wiser, my need for outright power has faded, in its place is reliable power

The whole reasoning for the supercharger was because I have never had a car with a supercharger, and I though it might be cool

Maybe I should just put build the LS up with heads, a bigger cam and a bit more compression, that would keep the transmission much happier
least u will know what the weak points are in the box for the next build :p ooh u will love the blower the instant boost/torque is nuts and vary addictive
 

Ginger Beer

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Just got the car back

The team at Graigs were great to deal with

New parts and work carried out

Sungear shell with roller bearing
Kolene dual cage sprag hub
Friction capsule
Gaskets, seals and rings
Craigs Stage 2 shift kit
Hi energy uprated spring kit
Heavy duty bush kit
Machined pump stator
Machined band drum brake
Needle washer kit
Billet forward accumulator piston
Billet 2nd gear servo
TH400 4th gear super hold servo
Molded steel clutch pack pistons
High energy kevlar band
Input drum strengthening kit
Inspected and cleaned
Service hi-stall converter

I'm a happy man
 

afstruct

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Enough power in a street car is when your gearboxes are "not" consumable items

I've run a few big power cars in my youth, replacing engines and drivetrain components becomes tiresome, now that I'm older and wiser, my need for outright power has faded, in its place is reliable power

The whole reasoning for the supercharger was because I have never had a car with a supercharger, and I though it might be cool

Maybe I should just put build the LS up with heads, a bigger cam and a bit more compression, that would keep the transmission much happier


No !!! = go the supercharger!!
Yes I love a good NA engine = but!!!!
That supercharger whine!!!!
Reading this and chuckmeister's posts
I want to go next!!!

Mine is not near yours or chuckmeister's = I soo want to go = next now.
Mine's a stock 5.7 ltr an harrop 2300,supercharger = still only an x force cat back , standard airbox , still with maf meter in the line .
6 speed manual = standard/ original clutch 110k klm , supercharger fitted at 81k klm sooo useable= I'm mature = mostly well behaved = it's lasted this long.
Quoted , 314 kw and 790 odd nm on dyno
= sooo user friendly and under the radar.
 

Ginger Beer

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My dilemma

Do I drop $15k on a harrop to get 360-400kwatw and well over 700nm and risk reliability

Or

Drop around $5k on some CNC heads and stuff and get around 300kw

I've owned an over powered RWD car before, the Skyline, and whilst it's novel, constantly fixing things isn't, when transmissions become consumable items on a street car your doing it wrong

I've owned a low powered track car, NB MX5, that I constantly beat on and the only thing I needed to do was fuel, and general servicing

I've spent the last few days visiting workshops around Sydney, there are alot of boosted cars in for repairs for various reasons

I'm not actually looking for answers

I'm just contemplating choices

Low boosted $15k = $150 per kw = more power, lower cost per kw but a higher risk to reliability

NA $5k = $166 per kw = less power, higher cost per kw but low risk to reliability

Due to space I'm limited to 1 car and 1 bike for me

We currently have 4 cars and 2 bikes in our house hold

Having a reliable car for me is a higher requirement than power

The question I'm struggling with is how much risk am I willing to accept

Being stuck on the bike when the car is busted isn't an issue when it's dry, but I'm to old and grumpy to ride my Harley in the rain, those things rust on demand

...I just read through my post to see if it made sense

It reads like I'm trying to talk myself out of boosting it now.....

Maybe I am

Common sense is an Achilles heal sometimes

In the end it will be either common sense prevails, or........I send it
 

ephect

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What's the expected torque from 300kw NA? you haven't specified that yet.

i get that more power can lead to a higher chance of anything behind the flywheel breaking, but things can go wrong with less power. At least with boost, you can dial it down or up without further costing major $$. If your really worried, bung in a stopper under the loud pedal, just like a go-cart. :p

It comes down to how much are you willing to spend now, and will you be happy with NA and not boosted later down the track.
 

Pollushon

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It's not that bad man. Good build, good tune and try not to skid it all over the place. It'll go for years

In 60k I've never broken anything big or down
 

Ginger Beer

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What's the expected torque from 300kw NA? you haven't specified that yet.

i get that more power can lead to a higher chance of anything behind the flywheel breaking, but things can go wrong with less power. At least with boost, you can dial it down or up without further costing major $$. If your really worried, bung in a stopper under the loud pedal, just like a go-cart. :p

It comes down to how much are you willing to spend now, and will you be happy with NA and not boosted later down the track.

Currently I'm around 270kw and 450nm atw

Adding another 30kw might see around 500nm atw, maybe

Hell, even on a super happy fun slide dyno it will be nowhere near my 650-700nm limit I wanted

It's not really all about the money, it is more about the risk I'm willing to accept for a street car

I want to be able to beat on this, to a point, daily, I want to take it up and down the coast on cruises with the Mrs, I want to hit the strip a couple of times a year, I don't want to replace gearboxes all the time, or limit it's use to Sunday casual cruises, or trailer the car, or have it live at a workshop more than my garage

I have mates with big powered cars, that either hardly drive them, or when they do drive them in anger, they break stuff

Like my old Skyline, that was a love hate relationship
 

Deuce

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My dilemma

Do I drop $15k on a harrop to get 360-400kwatw and well over 700nm and risk reliability

Or

Drop around $5k on some CNC heads and stuff and get around 300kw

I've owned an over powered RWD car before, the Skyline, and whilst it's novel, constantly fixing things isn't, when transmissions become consumable items on a street car your doing it wrong

I've owned a low powered track car, NB MX5, that I constantly beat on and the only thing I needed to do was fuel, and general servicing

I've spent the last few days visiting workshops around Sydney, there are alot of boosted cars in for repairs for various reasons

I'm not actually looking for answers

I'm just contemplating choices

Low boosted $15k = $150 per kw = more power, lower cost per kw but a higher risk to reliability

NA $5k = $166 per kw = less power, higher cost per kw but low risk to reliability

Due to space I'm limited to 1 car and 1 bike for me

We currently have 4 cars and 2 bikes in our house hold

Having a reliable car for me is a higher requirement than power

The question I'm struggling with is how much risk am I willing to accept

Being stuck on the bike when the car is busted isn't an issue when it's dry, but I'm to old and grumpy to ride my Harley in the rain, those things rust on demand

...I just read through my post to see if it made sense

It reads like I'm trying to talk myself out of boosting it now.....

Maybe I am

Common sense is an Achilles heal sometimes

In the end it will be either common sense prevails, or........I send it
If it's not a CVO ultra limited, then you are not that old yet.
And if it is, then you are not bothered by the weather.
 

Ginger Beer

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If it's not a CVO ultra limited, then you are not that old yet.
And if it is, then you are not bothered by the weather.
Those things are as big as my car

My little Dyna would be the biggest bike I would ever need or want

In saying that, I did get a fly sceen for it
20200917_164802.jpg.358cc146b39e4d57d4dd6b623b7666c9.jpg
 

Drawnnite

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You really need to weigh up if you are willing to maybe be a bit lighter on the go pedal in exchange for the extra power/torque.
I feel that's what you need to figure out and is concerning you in your decision.
In reality if its a daily, you'll get accustomed to the power, probably drive it a bit lighter as the extra torque will assist.

Although both are manuals I can hop from the weekender standard v8 to the sometimes v8 (Ls2, 2.9L whipple, cammed) and the sometimes one will scare you until you become used to the stupid extra amount of torque. Its something like 600nm from 1800rpm, with a peak of about 840nm atw. you become cautious as its not about breaking stuff (which traction is always turned off anyway), but about being so easy to do something stupid.
Side thing, its actually stupidly good at cruising with fuel, as in 8L/100 on the freeways.

Or if this sells it for you, the old neighbour used to have a S/C LS1 that was a daily, drove it sensibly enough and wasn't an issue.

In all honesty if you aren't driving it hard all the time it shouldn't be an issue, but if you drive like a P Plater who just got their licence and are trying to impress their mates you may run into trouble. Just have to be considerate of what you would now have under the foot.
 
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