What should timing be ??? And injector / fuel pressure question

[Vs hsv manta]

18 is not unusual for low comp start. low comp more advance needed to fire (no idea what you have as I have not read). some cars need up to 25. forget holden 10 as you no longer have a holden 304. fyi whatever dissy says is what it starts at. Advance ( at idle or whatever ) only happens once ur motor is running - NOT at start.

btw, ur manifold pressures do not seem ok

Cheers mate thanks !!! It's a long way from been a Holden 304 now and the comp is low down at 8.47 !!

An manifold vacuum when idle is about -12

when driving at 2000RPM and back of no throttle it goes - 20

And just cruising it varies from -10 to - 2 depending on throttle

This is still running N/A for run in of 1000km the blower is not connected yet !!!
Does this seam right if not what do u think not should be ???

 

[yxyx64]

i thought it was blown - my mistake. if blowing then you will need to talk to someone about the regulator as manifold vac will go.

you realise that once blown all ur ignition mapping will need pulling back anyhow. less advance for boost.

(now i am confused why spending $ on N/A tunes if blowing and doing 1K without blower)

 

[Cava454]

Hiis driving it NA for now to run it in safely on a run in tune.

 

[Vs hsv manta]

i thought it was blown - my mistake. if blowing then you will need to talk to someone about the regulator as manifold vac will go.

you realise that once blown all ur ignition mapping will need pulling back anyhow. less advance for boost.

(now i am confused why spending $ on N/A tunes if blowing and doing 1K without blower)

It's only in a N/A tune for run in of new motor , my tuner said its much easier on the motor as its not making a great deal of power and if any problems happen its much easier to hear with out the blower whistling away at the front,I'm just asking about the timing because I had the engine light come on for 10 seconds when I went up in a few revs and thought it might of been the knock sensor setting it off and wasn't sure what the timing should be on a engine like this!!!
My tuner said to just drive it normal and get the 1000km up and bring it back he said if there is no fault codes and its not pinging it will be fine and he said it shouldn't ping its not even close to it he said

The regulator is a adjustable rising rate one for boost

And no more money is been spent on N/A tunes it's getting blower hooked up and retuned in 2 weeks as the 1000 km is nearly up

 

[yxyx64]

fault code should be stored in your delco. get it out an see what it was....paperclip. I assume you know the history of the knock board ( as in is it the genuine hsv fitted when car new so is a v8 board)................


ramblings....6k....I hope it does not run at all well at 6k. If it does your overlap may not suit a blower. What I mean is if your thing maintains its torque curve as the revs rise (now as N/A, if it keeps accelerating as rpm rise) you may end up with all the intake charge going out the exhaust when you blow it.....assuming you are going to run a rising rate boost. If though it falls over now somewhat in the top end I would take that as a good sign.

 

[Cava454]

Personally I wouldn't be reving a fresh motor on a run in tune over 3500-4000.

His cam isn't what you would ideally call a dedicated boost cam. It's more a NA/boost choice with the lsa on 112.

 

[juiceie vh sle]

hey mate ive just built a 355 and with a baby 276 crane cam i have to set my timing at 18 in diagnostic mode just to get it running. still feels like i can go more as its not pinging at all .

try starting your motor and holding at 2000rpm and then advance the dizzy till you hear a change in note kind of like a popping sound then back it off a couple of degrees and see how that runs. a sign of a motor being too retarded is the exhaust will get hotter then it should. i had mine set a the factory 10deg bedding the cam in and it stripped the paint off the extractors.

 

[Vs hsv manta]

hey mate ive just built a 355 and with a baby 276 crane cam i have to set my timing at 18 in diagnostic mode just to get it running. still feels like i can go more as its not pinging at all .

try starting your motor and holding at 2000rpm and then advance the dizzy till you hear a change in note kind of like a popping sound then back it off a couple of degrees and see how that runs. a sign of a motor being too retarded is the exhaust will get hotter then it should. i had mine set a the factory 10deg bedding the cam in and it stripped the paint off the extractors.

Cheers mate lucky I didn't listen to the other quote that said that all 304 355 should be on 10 degrees !!!

Ill leave myn on the 18 my tuner set it on, it's goin in for another tune soon anyway with the blower on

Thanks for ur reply and that info !!!

 

[yxyx64]

alarm bells. if you need 18 at start and you do not have low comp/octane then maybe not good somewhere.

your car uses base timing to start. the ecu is NOT used.

ecu has no idea what base has been set.

ecu then adds advance from whatever you set at base. it cannot check your start point it just keeps adding from ur start point.

you can easily then end up near 50 if you start too big (base timing + total ecu advance)

if you start too big and have knock sensor then your computer will wind back when pinging. If no knock sensor, then you are in a world of pain. UNLESS you have changed advance numbers in tune - but you have not or else you would not be asking questions.

btw - my 355 on 91 octane is 11, not for start reasons but total advance reasons, but starts fine

 

[Cava454]

Every built holden motor I have seen. Timing is left on 10 degrees for first fire up as less chance of hurting it and starts the easiest.

From stock rebuilds to 600+ HP NA motors.