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What to do - rebuild?

afstruct

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Definitely with what you've done previously as everyone has said cam to suit your current setup ,.
Won't be disappointed = stall and diff gears to absolutely make the most of = won't be disappointed. = night an day in performance.
 
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Dean1985

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Very good advice EYY
Hey Ian have a chat with this guy 0414 174289 he's good with 304 motors and heads, worth getting advice on combo.


Who would the person be that im calling?
Cheers
 
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Dean1985

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Definitely with what you've done previously as everyone has said cam to suit your current setup ,.
Won't be disappointed = stall and diff gears to absolutely make the most of = won't be disappointed. = night an day in performance.
Id LOVE to stay away from stall. HOWEVER.

What would be the smallest stall i could go? Diff gears are a no go, i love a good highway low rpm cruise.
 

EYY

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Id LOVE to stay away from stall. HOWEVER.

What would be the smallest stall i could go? Diff gears are a no go, i love a good highway low rpm cruise.
The ONLY reason not to go with a histall is money. They’re better in pretty much every aspect. Almost all th700 and 4L60e aftermarket street style converters (2000-3500rpm or so) retain lockup so you’ll still have your same low rpm cruise as before.
 

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afstruct

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Id LOVE to stay away from stall. HOWEVER.

What would be the smallest stall i could go? Diff gears are a no go, i love a good highway low rpm cruise.


I've been the same with diff gears but remember now you're cam to suite engine will come in higher up , engine will probably rev out 1000rpm higher . All modern cars are over geared = tall = for economy.
It's good spots / effective revs are now higher = economy and performance.

As EVY said basically can't lose on stall .

If worried do cam and stall and then consider diff but probably have to tune / adjust shift points to suite = more cost.

Some say 3.45 gears are not worth the money verious gain = but everyone is different and even these would be a nice improvement and better matched to the setup for not a big increase in rpm at 100 kph
 

afstruct

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Also more money but tie bar roller lilfters = roller cam = more for a less aggressive cam
 
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Dean1985

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Also more money but tie bar roller lilfters = roller cam = more for a less aggressive cam

Whatsthis tie bar rollers?
More for a less agressive cam?
Are you suggesting that a cam with a more agressive ramp could also resolve the ping issue but would require roller rockers?

Just looking at all options here.

Thanks heaps for the replies everyone, im overwhelmed with the response and appreciate the ideas here.
I am leaning gently towards a 284 but i have read some places about plug fouling issues and easy to be spotted by cops with the cam.. then referred to epa etc.

I really do drive in the much lower rev range whuch was why i went the smaller cam, more low end torque.
 

EYY

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Whatsthis tie bar rollers?
More for a less agressive cam?
Are you suggesting that a cam with a more agressive ramp could also resolve the ping issue but would require roller rockers?

Just looking at all options here.

Thanks heaps for the replies everyone, im overwhelmed with the response and appreciate the ideas here.
I am leaning gently towards a 284 but i have read some places about plug fouling issues and easy to be spotted by cops with the cam.. then referred to epa etc.

I really do drive in the much lower rev range whuch was why i went the smaller cam, more low end torque.
Purely from a cost perspective re cam:
don’t bother with roller cam - cost of cam alone is approx $350 more than a flat tappet cam. Tie bar lifters to suit early blocks like I suspect you have will cost around $1200. Then there’s pushrods, valve springs to handle the extra lift of a roller cam, coated oil pump gear, locks, retainers etc which you’d budget an additional $400-600 for. Then machining the heads for spring seats. You’d also need roller rockers to deal with the lift. Roller rockers are still a great idea for valvetrain reliability even with flat tappet.

As for your concern of a noticeably modified engine, a histall can help with this. With stock stall and a 284 you’ll need to run a low idle rpm to stop it pushing forward on the brakes. A histall will allow a higher idle rpm so it’ll sound smoother. With a decent tune you’d barely know it were cammed. The extra comp will help here too. Shouldn’t be any fouling issues with a cam as small as a 284.

For a 284 I’d be looking at a 2800rpm converter. It’ll drive like stock when you want it to. I’d put money into stall before I’d go roller cam.
 
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Dean1985

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Thanks for rounding that idea off .

Why does a bigger cam 'push' on brakes? Is it to do with less vacuum and more "lope"?

Could i potentially meet mid way with a 23to 2500stall?
 
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