OSL-060 said:
Great Post Mixin, it's explained really well. But I've got one question, isn't the process during the downshift actually referred to as 'Double De-Clutching'?
I've never heard it referred to as that. To declutch is to disengage something, so for every declutch action you would need a clutch action -ie the pressure plate pushing the driven plate against the flywheel & pressure plate facings.
OSL-060 said:
And even with the older straight cut gears no blipping/rev matching is required on the upshift. Simply clutch in> neutral> clutch out>clutch in>upshift>back on the throttle. Maybe you meant this anyway and I'm reading it wrong.
Bevel cut gears came into chevs in 1929 - making them far easier to drive, and upshifting became easier, but it was only an interim measure until synchros on 2nd & top (3 speed) were introduced in the early 30s.
To drive a '28 chev you actually need to double clutch it on the way up too - which sounds the opposite of what needs to happen.
However, the layshaft in vintage gearboxes slows down so quickly, that even when going up a gear, the shaft has slowed way too far to allow the next gear to slip in. Thus you need to let the clutch out in neutral, give it a rev to speed up the layshaft, then push the clutch back in & grab the next gear, then release the clutch.
If you grind them, you'll never get it in!
I think you are confusing straight & bevel gears with straight & helical teeth - the 2 most commonly used modern designs.
Helical teeth eliminate the whine you get with a straight cut gear, and are used in all forward gears in modern cars, while straight cut gears are usually found in reverse - but these are bevelled to allow easier shifting!
Straight sided gears are not like a "straight cut" gear as found in a racing box - straight sided gears are gears where the teeth are the same shape right to the edge - meaning the side of the gear still has the full profile of tooth exposed.
Bevel-cut gears have the end of each tooth machined into a taper to alliw it to slip in easier - this taper looks like the taper on a synchro ring.
In the older boxes, the actual gear slid along a shaft & the outside teeth of the gear engaged & disengaged.
In the 30s, the more modern design was introduced where the gears are in constant mesh with the external teeth, and internal teeth actually lock on & off the mainshaft to transmit drive. This is one reason why synchro boxes are so much easier to drive.
OSL-060 said:
As for Heel and Toe or what it really is 'toe and heel'... I wouldn't say it originated as a separate shifting method. It's simply double declutching with a more precise rev match over the blipping technique.
Heel & toeing was essential in racing in the 40s & 50s, and was even essential until the early 70s in Australian touring cars.
It wasn't until the mid/late 70s that non-synchro boxes finally died a long & painful death!
For those who seem confused, it refers to you toe being used on the brake pedal to slow down, while you angle your heel out to blip the throttle whilst maintaining consistent braking. It can be difficult to master - especially in a stock commodore - the pedal spacing isn't real good.
Most of the wanker "heel toeing" I see on the streets today isn't even done properly - heel toeing refers to using all 3 pedals at once.
Too many ricers I see think they are cool by pretending to heel toe.
You hear the blip & downshift out of them, but when you don't see no brake lights, then you know they are wanking themselves!!!