Wheel Bearing Noise?

I just replaced 2 front wheel bearings (at $300 ea) plus new discs and Bendix pads...all to get rid of what was diagnosed as wheel bearing noise.
As it turned out all that expense was wasted as the culprit turned out to be tread separation on my el-cheapo Westlake tyres which causes the tread to develop "waves" or "ripples" which sound exactly like bearing noise under 10 kph. Tracked it down by using an infra-red thermometer which measures the tyre temperature - front tyres were about 30 deg C hotter than the rears which are a different brand.
So that would be my first guess and my second guess is that the sides of the brake pads are rubbing on the rough unused portion of the disc surface and rubbing/squealing when sideways pressure flexes the hub and causes the pad to rub. This shouldn't really be able to happen but apparently the pad material can shift slightly on the backing plate or the complete pad can shift position slightly in the caliper.
Good Luck.

 

Are you sure the calipers aren't seized?? Sounds could be from the brake pad.

 

^^ I agree, sounds like brakes are grabbing and the caliper needs a refurbishment

 

Piston may be sticking I know with mine it was and I gave everything a clean and a file if needed...

 

With an infra-red thermometer (~$50) you can measure the actual caliper temperatures after a drive - if they are within a degree or two of each other they are not sticking but if one is a lot hotter then that would indicate a sticking caliper. Another indication of a sticking caliper is a pull in the steering to one side or the other due to the stuck one not applying the same pressure as the good one.
These thermometers are a great toy - dead accurate and good for checking the cooling system, tyres for tread separation or misalignment etc etc.

 

i think i the brake piston on my VS is sticking or not retracting properly because ive been having this squeaking noise for 2 months now and i cleaned up and re-greased the slides with anti-seize but the squeak is stil there...how difficult should it be to run a kit for the brake piston and whats involve?

 

If your brakes don't squeak when you apply them why should they squeak if they drag? If they drag they must get hot and pull to one side. The piston does not retract as there is no spring or whatever in the caliper to pull the pad from the disc and the pad is designed to sit against the disc....push the brake pedal and fluid forces the pad hard against the disc...take the foot off the brake pedal and fluid pressure is relieved but the pad is still in contact with the disc but only brushing it. Thats the way I see it.

 

so what would you say the soultion would be?..could it be a warped rotor? because with my noise its a squeak-squeak in intervals, the faster i go the quicker the interval of squeaks are. does it look like new rotors for me?

 

Ridah, it sounds like it could be warped...it is very easy to do...going through a puddle when they are hot or doing excessive burnouts will do it. Or maybe its the pad, but I doubt it...

 

Yep looks like new rotors for you but you can just get them machined if there is enough thickness in them.

 

yeah, i asked the guy down at the tyre shop if i could get em machined, he said he could do it but i may aswell get new ones because he said theres barely any meat left on the rotors. any-1 know what the minium thickness of the rear rotors on a VS should be?

 

Rear disc min thickness is 8.5mm. I just bought new front discs for under $70 ea and the rears are cheaper - this can be a lot less hassle than getting them skimmed and is done at your convenience.

 

Yeah I got my new ones late last year. There was a tiny bit of meat left on them but I thought I may as well get newys...
But if they are warped there isn't much hope for success getting them skimmed. You should get some new ones anyway if they are down...

 

They also tend to warp easily if they are too thin.

 

my rear brakes have teis same squeak too, ive had the disks machined and will pull apart my calipers on the weekend and see if anyhting is stikcing. has anyone fixed this yet

 

had the same problem, fixed it by locking rear wheels and doing a big ass skid.

 

id check that where the calliper is mounted is not loose or warn creating movement. id also check how warped and warn the rotor is because they get a lip on the outer of the rotor which the pad may rub or grab when the wheel is turned

 

yeh well had the disks machined so they are all good but i will have to check out the calipers tomorrow