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Wheel ramps

Turtle2388

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Hey boys, just wondering your techniques for getting your cars up on ramps? Two issues;

1) the ramps slide on concrete

2) and the main issue,... The car is too bloody low :/ so best way around this?

Cheers

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mpower

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too low?

get stands instead - cheap as chips.
 

Pollushon

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I had both issues, so I grabbed a couple of short (thick) wood planks and ground off the ends so they sit flush, to kick off the drive up the ramp. Fixed both problems.

Agreed with mpower though, stands are the bomb, but if you're like me and don't have access to even ground not always an option. I have to do stand type jobs at my ex wife's place.
 

Turtle2388

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Yea I have Axel stands. Only 2 though. Was gonna use ramps on the front and Axel stands on the rear?

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Turtle2388

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And yea front bar hits before the wheel. It's only stock fe2 a swell.

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Longman

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I use 2 trolley jacks, one little cheapo just to give enough clearance to get my big good one under, then put on stands. There aint much room under there.
 

Sean880

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Hey boys, just wondering your techniques for getting your cars up on ramps? Two issues;

1) the ramps slide on concrete

2) and the main issue,... The car is too bloody low :/ so best way around this?

Cheers

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2
1. I have been using a set of steel ramps for many years but they generally do not slide on smooth concrete because there are a couple of wooden pads set into the base at the leading edge with rubber material attached.
To address your problem I would look at attaching some non slip rubber material to both ends of the base of each ramp and see how you go. You will need a decent area of coverage though. I think mine would be better if I had the pads at each end of the ramps rather than just the leading edge.

2. I found the easiest solution to the gradient of the ramps (too short and steep for low bodied cars like the VE ) was to cut up two long lengths of timber plank (about 25 cm wide and about 25-30 mm thick)) and attach these about one third to a half way up the ramp gradient with a single bolt and nut through the timber into the steel ramp tread. (The bolt head is inset into the timber so it sits flush). The timber planks are about 130 cm long and provide a low gradient onto the ramps without any fouling of the bodywork. The timbers are strengthened with a couple of cross pieces.

I have run multiple different cars up this set up with no issues and it takes just a few seconds to attach and remove the timber extensions each time.

Set up your ramps and then with some timber strips of a decent length and you can work out the lengths of timber planking you will need to achieve body work clearance and the best position to attach the planks to your steel ramp.

Car ramps (provided you buy a well designed pair) are great for working under the front or rear or just getting the car up higher when you are waxing/polishing the lower sections.
(Buy a set with a full steel tread on them rather than those cheap rung type set ups you see in most of the auto stores.)

I would never work under a car on axle stands. If you do lots and lots of luck.
 

Wombles

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Could always buy the ramps suited to lowed cars.
 
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