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Who knows L32 conrod direction/orientation?

Pub247

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which dots are these are they on the big end of the rod?

Maybe a pic been awhile since i built a six almost 2 years now.

Edit i'm going to hazard a guess and say that the dots are for rod/ cap matching and being balanced it wont affect as long as piston orientation is correct. These are stock rods yeah? (may sound stupid as title say l32)
 
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IBLOWN

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which dots are these are they on the big end of the rod?

Maybe a pic been awhile since i built a six almost 2 years now.

Edit i'm going to hazard a guess and say that the dots are for rod/ cap matching and being balanced it wont affect as long as piston orientation is correct. These are stock rods yeah? (may sound stupid as title say l32)

Yeah theres a dot just above the big end.

The rods are out of an L32 supercharged from the states. They're forged steel.
 

Pub247

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Ah well i never worked with those rods i've only done local motors i assume theyre the same as l67 then? is the weight the same as original rods? thats more from curiosity.

I honestly wracked my brain i cant cant see how flipping them around would change anything. Theyre symetrical and should weight the same on every axis being balanced.
 

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Ah well i never worked with those rods i've only done local motors i assume theyre the same as l67 then? is the weight the same as original rods? thats more from curiosity.

I honestly wracked my brain i cant cant see how flipping them around would change anything. Theyre symetrical and should weight the same on every axis being balanced.

Theyre stronger than L67. L36 ecotec are cast iron, L67 are cast steel but L32 are forged steel and quite beefier than L67. So yeah they would be alot heavier, my balancer guy gave me the readout and it shows 450 grams heavier lol.

Ive pulled out a piston tonight and i'll check for any offset tomorrow at work. If theres none then it wont matter.

The only other thing im worried about is the bearing tangs. What if they are designed to take load only in 1 direction and if its the wrong direction then the bearing may spin...

Scary stuff when you've spent so much on the rest of the motor lol.
 

Pub247

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Can you post a pic up pleaseso i can have a good look at one.

EDIT does one side have a chamfer? or radius
 

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Can you post a pic up pleaseso i can have a good look at one.

EDIT does one side have a chamfer? or radius

IMG_2138.jpg



Yeah has a bigger chamfer to one side. Thats the original way i set them all up. Big chamfer to the nearest main bearing.
 

Pub247

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Yeah that's the way i'd do it bigger chamfer towards main.
Are all rods same by that i mean the bigger chamfer is on the same side rods as all the dots are

Whats the numbers on the side? are they all same ?

I hope the balancer took the extra weight into consideration. Are you using the stock crank? (kinda sounds stupid now i reread the above posts.)

I dont think bearing tang is going to much of an issue aslong as the cap is around the right way. Though i do know that some motors have them pointing to exhaust side or on the "outside" of the motor.
 

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Yeah that's the way i'd do it bigger chamfer towards main.

Whats the numbers on the side? are they all same ?

I hope the balancer took the extra weight into consideration. Are you using the stock crank?

Numbers are all different but are all on the same side.

Stock crank.

Yes its had a full engine balance so the rods and pistons are weighted, ground so they weigh the same then balanced with the crank as a rotating assembly with the balancer and flex plate.

He balanced with the flex plate and balancer on the crank and added weight to the crank to compensate. So if i ever have to change the balancer or flex plate then i just change them without balancing again.
 

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ah ok cool balancing sounds all good then.

With the bigger chamfer towards the main where does that put the numbers on the outside? (I assume the numbers were already there and the machinist didnt add them.)
 
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