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why has no one does this?

Callum433

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yeah i gather that but good t5s are basically the same price as a ay5/mau5 now, so why pay the same price or more in some cases when you can get a waaaay better transmission and only have to put it in once as a ecotect wouldnt brake it unless you make serious power. im definitely aware of showtime custom and would go with there lock kits of i chose to go down the commodore path. just dont wanna deal with the older style irs issues and the solid axles arent very strong either. (the chosen car will not have a holden motor in it)
 

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Body line adjustment, was more of an under-body adjustment. The VS > VZ cradles are rather flat;



but the VE cradles are quite tall, with that the floor would likely need to be cut to accomodate it while also ensuring you've got enough rigidity added in for those two rear mounts.
 

Callum433

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i have noticed that they are definitely a taller cradle compared to the earlier type.

but looking at some pictures they do seem to still have a tilt. to get the best idea id have to measure the hight from both subframes between the front cradle mount and the highest point on the cradles if that makes sense
 

_R_J_K_

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why the f**k has no one does an r154/ay5/mau5 conversion when they bolt directly to a Buick/ecotec? (yes i have proof)
Pics please, without a conversion bell housing I don't see how any of them could, particularly as one is a Toyota and the other has it's own GM bolt pattern. Also, have you priced up a R154 vs. a T56? It's not exactly like they're common either, even 1JZ owners are turning to T56s.

There's a few Ecotec/T5 drifters, the engines are capable, it's just that pre-VE Commodores have a cheap suspension design that doesn't accommodate adjustment, not to mention the aftermarket for Commodore handling is extremely poor.

If I were looking for a cheap hack it would be an AU Falcon with Shockworks coilovers or maybe an old Beamer or a cheap VE.

I think you'll find that Commodores are not ideal drift cars because they are a little long.
Not at all, JZX90/JZX100 is one of the most popular competition cars these days, they're just as long if not longer. Weight distribution probably is an issue for the old Commo tho.
 
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_R_J_K_

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i have noticed that they are definitely a taller cradle compared to the earlier type.
The other problem you'll face is that if you do that transplant the rear track will be much wider than the front. You'll also need to account for the large mounting surface of the top of the VE shock absorber or use a coilover from something else and have it come through the floor to a larger frame attached to the car.
 
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Callum433

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Pics please, without a conversion bell housing I don't see how any of them could, particularly as one is a Toyota and the other has it's own GM bolt pattern.

this bellhousing right here is what youd need (there are many that fit but this is the best pic) a lot of isuzu motors in particular used the gm 60 degree bolt pattern as they were offering there own vehicles for gm (rodeo and such) the rodeo v6 and many other models of that era came with a 5 speed ar5/mau5 (exactly the same centre as r154 with revised internals but all parts are interchangeable)

Also, have you priced up a R154 vs. a T56? It's not exactly like they're common either, even 1JZ owners are turning to T56s.
ar5s and mau5s are the r154s bigger brothers with apparently slightly wider gears and some even coming with carbon syncroes or more syncroes at the minimum, as for price these transmissions are litterally everywhere in 4x2 models and can be had for no more than an ecotec engine while being able to hold potentially more than an r154 (no one to my knowlage has broken one from power "yet") given they have better internals. i wasnt comparing price as such more power handling capability. r154s are definitely getting hard to find in good condition but ar5s and mau5s are abundant and very cheap achieving the same or more power capabilities witch definitely put them as competitors for the t56

There's a few Ecotec/T5 drifters, the engines are capable, it's just that pre-VE Commodores have a cheap suspension design that doesn't accommodate adjustment, not to mention the aftermarket for Commodore handling is extremely poor.
i never said ecotecs weren't capable at all, i have seen quiet a few make well over 500hp and drag cars pushing over 1000hp, as for the t5 tho they are basically glass if you go above moderate torque.

If I were looking for a cheap hack it would be an AU Falcon with Shockworks coilovers or maybe an old Beamer.
i would go an au but id be going back to a solid axle and tbh i don't like there look or them in general (not hating just preference) as for beamer ive been told they are a damn headache especially if i need parts haha

The other problem you'll face is that if you do that transplant the rear track will be much wider than the front.
from some googling the track width looked almost identicle but i may have miss read, do you have exact specs?
 

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VS - Rear track (mm): 1478 - 1491
VE - Rear track (mm): 1608 - 1618
 

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ah ok so about 100mm each side give or take. im sure with some panel work plus a lock kit pushing the front out a fair distance it would balance out. if it were much more it might not work tho
also is that for irs vs or solid vs? are there differences?
 

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ah ok so about 100mm each side give or take. im sure with some panel work plus a lock kit pushing the front out a fair distance it would balance out. if it were much more it might not work tho
Lock kit won't push track out in the way you think it will for a distance like that, it'll just give you demon camber on the front because the top of the McPherson strut stays in the same place and 100mm is a lot, probably too much to even cover with adjustable strut tops. TBH, I wouldn't get a lock kit until you're reaching the limits of your driving ability with the stock setup. Lock kits don't make you a better driver but they do cover for a lot of mistakes which you should be using to further your ability.

What did you have in mind for suspension?
 

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Very true and who doesn't like camber lol but I definitely agree with what you said and ideally I wouldn't have the lock kit until after I'm competent and at the cars steering limits.
As for suspension I would more than likely start with very stiff coils up front with away bars if you can get aftermarket. And rears well probably stock or soft coils. I was hoping to get away from spring bucket suspension by doing the ve subframe swap but it might not be worth it. Who knows I might have to choose a different chassis to build up
 
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