Window Winder

[Phillbert]

Hey guys i have a VS Ute with a dicky window, when you wind it up it drops forward about 5-10mm
I just put new bailey kit in but the window keeps dropping forward about 10mm when winding it up.
I also put a new winder in (non genuine) with the same issue

Any ideas as to how to fix it?

 

[losh1971]

You need to file out the rear hole on the door where it bolts to the mech. IIRC you file it down so the the window tilts back more. Some claim there is adjustment but there is virtually none. I just can't remember if you file out the hole for the channel or the hole that the rear lower arm bolts too. I fixed mine but don't want to strip the door down to check as it's not always good for the A/C vents as they can become scratched. There is a small amount of adjustment on the front bailey channel, by moving the triangle bit in the front window corner.

 

[losh1971]

Pretty sure it is the M bolt you elongate back and down and make the reg tilt back more. I really need to see a pic of what you have to be more sure.

 

[vs-lover]

Hi guys,

It's the rear bolt on the window regulator guide raill that requires to be elongated downwards so as to put a lowering tilt on the small section of channel.

You'll find that the later doors already had that feature slotted into the inner door panel while all the earlier ones didn't have it. You'll find crash shops always used a rotary file in a drill and create the slot.

This problem normally arises from the front bailey channel seal copping most of the pressure when the glass is raised and lowered, thus being squeezed and worn away. Once you change that short piece of seal you'll find that the glass will sit vertical again and only requires a small adjustment on the window regulator guide rail. The other thing you'll find once the seal is replaced and that is the window will glide up much more easily without so much arm effort required.

Also this problem seems to be far more prevalent in the manual window set up opposed to the electric windows.

 

[Phillbert]

Ok, where the M bolt is, that is a short piece of rail about 300mm long that clips in at the top and bolts on at bottom.
I will have another go tomorrow at it, thanks for the image

 

[Phillbert]

Hi guys,
Also this problem seems to be far more prevalent in the manual window set up opposed to the electric windows.

I will be adding elect windows at a later point, i have the connections in the doors, the switch loom and switches to go.
Just need to get the regulators when im ready to finish it off.

 

[vs-lover]

Must admit that these windows would probably have to be the worst to work on in any vehicle that I've had to do anything inside a door shell of.

 

[losh1971]

Must admit that these windows would probably have to be the worst to work on in any vehicle that I've had to do anything inside a door shell of.

Yeah they are a bastard. Especially when even with new bailey channels all round they still don't always wind up straight. Which is weird because they didn't give you adjustment from the factory and they must have wound up straight when sold new.

 

[vs-lover]

There's also the white nylon sliding blocks that wear and add to the confusion. Every bit of wear adds up and means the window isn't square within the frame. Some of the guys on the door assembly line would've had fun with these at times I'm sure especially when teaching someone new to do a shift or so when someone regular was off sick.

 

[losh1971]

I replaced reg and channels front and rear, silicone lubed everything and the bastard still tilted slightly forward. So even with all new parts they can still tilt, which has me buggard as to how they were fine when sold new. I thought maybe it was the track but even that looked good.